O

Ofitz

Member
Hey guys,

Finally beginning my search in earnest for an RV-4. What would you say the top things to look for are. Obviously build quality would be number 1. But what else, options? Instrumentation?

I am looking for a basic VFR cruiser, fixed pitch metal or composite prop, fast, light, analog instrumentation. I want to get into flying it for a while then decide what upgrades I want. I do not need IFR, and I really don't want the expense of glass. I'll just use foreflight....

I'm guessing that airplane described above can be had for $40-$45k. Sound about right?
 
The -4 is a simple airplane with not a lot of frills in its basic form. So look for one built like it was designed. simple, light, basic.

Options that are nice, however are:

Electric flaps (nice to have if you fly with a passenger)

Electric elevator trim (not sure I'd bother with this if starting over).

Foot wells for rear passenger ( easy to add)

I'm adding a wing leveler as I think it will be nice to have for long xcntry. Remains to be seen if its worth it.

Less frills and weight the better...
 
Thanks Mike!

Do you guys find that the build quality varies widely. In other words, some planes are just worth buying?

Also, I'm 6'1" tall... Any issues there?
 
The 4 was not a pre punched kit, so each builder had to fit things during the build.

This allows a bit of leeway in the quality department that is not common in the later models.

But, it also let a builder tailor the cockpit dimensions to fit-------so if the builder was tall, chances it will fit you well, but if the builder was short............you could have a harder time.
 
My wife and oldest son each have an RV-4.
They both have 160 HP O-320 fixed prop, simple, light aircraft.
What a hoot! My 106 lb wife climbs out like a rocket when solo.
I switched her RV-4 to a Sensenich Carbon Fiber Ground Adjustable prop, a bit spendy, but worth it.
Shop carefully, get a good one at a good price, and don't look back. If you have to sell it later, you will get your value out of it. :cool:
The simpler, low end price versions seem to sell more quickly, avionics and nice interiors tend to run up the price and make them harder to sell.
Marilyn's was set up for a 'tall guy' but the seat back was the only thing changed. A quick look thru the 'reduced size plans' that came with it gave us the part numbers. The seat back parts were ordered from VANs, easily assembled and installed in the plane. Pretty good start as a first building task for a new RV owner. You could go the other way if the seating is a bit cramped in an otherwise suitable candidate plane. Search the RV-4 forum for tall guy mods.
 
Last edited:
The seat adjustment for tall pilots isn't as easy as it might seem. You can move the bottom of the pilots seat back about an inch but the top of the back rests on the roll bar. In order to move the top of the seat back aft you need to move the roll bar. Move it much and you need to rethink the support structure. Too far back and the roll bar will interfere with the canopy center brace.

Not much you can do without major surgery.

I'm 6'5" and fit in mine. It's cosy but works.
 
Good point. I'm 5'11 with a tall body and short legs. The tall seat back in Marilyn's plane was moved back to the limit Richard mentioned, and the seat back slightly concave at the bottom to give more room. I think it would be suitable for 6'1" average build guys.
6'5", I defer to the proper authority. ;)
I should add that a thinner seat pad may be required. At the limit, your legs might rest on the wing spar.
 
Last edited:
On my -4 I moved the roll bar aft two inches(the max allowed in manual... any further and it hits the canopy frame). I am comfortable with it there, but if you still needed a little more room, mount the top of the seat to the rear of the roll bar with two bolts. I also cut off the bottom inch or so off the bottom of the instrument panel, making it much easier to get in and out of the plane. I did reinforce the bottom of panel with .063 extruded angle to give it back its strength. I am 6'2" and 240 pounds(not fat, just big).
 
moved my seat back also

when i built my rv-4 i thought i wanted more room after seating in one rv-4 so i moved the seat back ( which demands the side bulkhead that supports the rollbar be moved as well as the rollbar) but now i think it was a mistake as the passenger have problems with their knees hitting the back of the seat and i have more room the i need 6'2''
 
Put up a wanted ad ...

The best airplanes get sold before they ever reach the classifieds, you probably won't really have a huge choice. Buy the best airframe you can find - the rest is fixable (given time and $$$), but you are stuck with the basic airframe. Also buy light - I would suggest a maximum of 950lb empty. A 320 with a wood prop is probably more fun than a 360 with constant speed.

Pete
 
as a recent purchaser of an RV-4

Quality airframe.
light.
minimal or no "new electronic flight upgrades. Add them yourself to your liking and flight needs. If you are replacing stream gauges, you will lighten the plane even more.

I think I could lighten up my plane by going to a lighter battery, and swapping some instruments. Approximate weight loss~ 20#.

If the seller will let you ride in the back, does it shimmy on the taxiway or runway?
Is the firewall free of wrinkles?
How is the engine?

Daddyman
N262 DF
nwebie
 
Check for firewall damage

RV4's in particular are suseptable to lower firewall damage from hard landings. In the late 80's there was a steel mount bracket upgrade. They are located behind the firewall and the engine mount is attached to them. Many of the original ones were found to be cracked. I was inspecting an RV4 in 1990 and found three out of four were cracked

With all that said MINOR fire wall damage is not a deal breaker (providing that the engine mount weldaments are the heavier gauge ones). You can fly the plane safely for the life of the plane with a slightly bent firewall. Cracked engine mount brackets on the other hand render the plane unairworthy. A slightly bent firewall can be a negotiation point too.

Piano hinges on the cowl/firewall commonly break segments and are easy to fix.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.