CaptainQwyx

CaptainQwyx

Member
I'm ready to prime the parts of the horizontal stabilizer and rivet the thing together. I'm using a Zinc Chromate rattle-can from Aircraft Spruce for my priming - just priming the pieces that need it (non-Alclad), ribs, spar, and pieces that got scratched by the gremlins in the middle of the night. I also plan on shooting primer on the inside of the skins along the rib/spar attach lines and anywhere else that got scratched after I scuff the area just a little with a ScotchBrite pad.

My question is this - those scratching gremlins had a little too much fun on the outside of the skins during the dimpling process. The male dimple die was in the base of the Avery C-frame and scratched the skin a bit as it was moved from one hole to the next. My first thought was to not prime the outside of the skins since that would get taken care of during the painting process (in the oh-so-distant future from this perspective :)) but these scratches have me just a bit worried. I have left most of the protective vinyl on the outside of the skin (using the standard soldering iron technique). Should I scuff these outside scratches and spray primer here too? Will that interefere with the eventual painting process? I haven't researched the painting much yet since it's so far away, but I think I will probably end up having it professionally done.

Another question. Since I'm a first-time builder I'm a little nervous and I'd like some insight from an EAA Tech Counselor in the near future. I was planning on riveting the horiz. stab. skeleton and then having the TC come over for an inspection before riveting the skin on. Is this too early in the process?

Thanks,
Jeff
 
Question about the scratches on the outside of the skin: Are the scratches actually through the Alclad? I wouldn't think sliding across the smooth tip of the die would really gouge through - more likely "creased" it. If not through the Alclad, let it slide.
If it is through the Alclad, I personally would spray it with the zinc chromate, then wipe it off (leaving zinc in the groove). My thought behind this is to not disturb the Alclad (a far better protective coating than anything I could lay down), yet still have the zinc on the alloy to provide protection along that thin line.
My $0.02 - YMMV.
 
CaptainQwyx said:
I'm using a Zinc Chromate rattle-can from Aircraft Spruce for my priming - just priming the pieces that need it (non-Alclad), ribs, spar, and pieces that got scratched by the gremlins in the middle of the night. Thanks, Jeff
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FYI, the only aluminum pieces in the emp. kit that aren't alcad are the extruded pieces. All the ribs and formed sheetmetal pieces are alclad.

Karl
 
RV8N said:
FYI, the only aluminum pieces in the emp. kit that aren't alcad are the extruded pieces. All the ribs and formed sheetmetal pieces are alclad.

Karl
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I wonder - are ribs and such that have been subjected to severe forming still fully protected, or is the Alclad stretched "too thin" in places? Any one with years of observations under their belt care to comment?
 
I didn't think the ribs are alcad, they certainly don't look like it, and they are not marked with that blue inking that says alcad. I'm just starting my HS, so I'm a noob, and could be completely wrong. :)

Ryan
 
The ribs look different because they are heat treated after they are formed. They are still alclad.
 
Like Karl says, only the extruded angles and such are not alclad. And they are 6061 alloy which is very corrosive resistant in itself. Many Canadian kits use 6061 exclussively and many are never primed at all.
 
Thanks everyone!

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll just leave the outsides as they are for now. I live in Denver (low humidity) and the parts are being stored in my basement so I think they'll be fine. The scratches aren't too bad, but my fingernail does catch on some of them, which is my guideline for priming the other parts.

Btw, Mel, you probably don't remember me, but I was a member of 168 about 5 years ago - I sure miss all you guys. I had the tail for a -6 back then but sold it. I've returned to the fold with a 7A.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
I remember people (projects) just not names. After 41 years at TI where everyone wears a badge, I got spoiled. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it! Great to hear that you're back in the RV fold.
 
Bar, angle & tubes need corrosion protection

RV-9 instructions, Chapter 5, second paragraph: "...bar, angle and tube used is 6061-T6 alloy and also is not corrosion treated. All aluminum bar, angle and tube used in the RVs, especially the main spar bars, must be primed or anodized to assure corrosion resistance." Looking at various sources online and printed, it appears that there is some disagreement in how susceptible 6061-T6 is to corrosion. One source indicated it is MORE susceptible to corrosion than 2024-T3. That may depend on the kind of corrosion one is talking about.

Whatever, if Van's says to protect it, I'd protect it.
 
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