rodcritt

rodcritt

Member
I have decided to rebuild a used engine :rolleyes:. All I know is I want to go with a IO or O320, Fixed Prop maybe later have the option for resale only of a C/S prop, 160hp. Money is always a factor. So my question is what model IO/0320's have been put in to 7A's with out much trouble. Something I can find readly in the used engine market. Yes, I know this may end up costing just as much as a new engine. As for the IO or O the only factor for me is the cold weather in South Dakota. Very little if any acro. in my future. Could some of you who have completed your projects please chime in. I hope to find an engine in the next couple of months.
Thanks for all you help
 
A O-320-E2G...

...will not work with a -A model due to it's rearward mounted carb. location.
 
No problem...

rodcritt said:
That is exactly the kind of information I'm looking for.
Click to expand...

...glad it helped.

According to my Parts catalog, the same sump - 72362 - is also used on these O-320 models --
-A2A -A2B -A2D -A3B -B2B -B2C -B3B

Note - this is only a problem on the nosegear models.
 
One thing to think about is resale value. An O-360 can be done for about the same price as a 320. If you look at going prices for RV 6,7,8 you will see that the 360 commands an average of $10,000 more than an equivalent airplane with a 320. Add a C/S prop and it's closer to $20,000. If you are going to get a used engine and rebuild it there is almost no difference in parts cost. If you look hard you can find a good rebuildable 360 for about the same price as a 320. Just wanted to give you a little more food for thought. Don
 
Beware of high wings

Hi Rodney,

When looking for used engine, just keep in mind that some high wing or gravity fed planes have been equipped with engines where the accessory case has no place to install a mechanical fuel pump. This doesn't always reflect in the "magic" letter/number codes Lycoming uses to name their engines.

Best regards
 
Not reflected in the letter/number code

FlyingArcher said:
Hi Rodney,

When looking for used engine, just keep in mind that some high wing or gravity fed planes have been equipped with engines where the accessory case has no place to install a mechanical fuel pump. This doesn't always reflect in the "magic" letter/number codes Lycoming uses to name their engines.

Best regards
Click to expand...

So do you simply have to ask if the engine has a provision for the fuel pump or is there a cross reference list out there that I have yet to find?
 
It should be...

rodcritt said:
So do you simply have to ask if the engine has a provision for the fuel pump or is there a cross reference list out there that I have yet to find?
Click to expand...

...referenced in the Lycoming Parts Manual for each specific "dash" number.
 
rodcritt said:
So do you simply have to ask if the engine has a provision for the fuel pump or is there a cross reference list out there that I have yet to find?
Click to expand...
Changing out the accessory case to install a fuel pump isn't that big of a deal, I had to do it on my O-290.

There are pictures and comments on my engine page of how to do it.

Probably the biggest issue is that the sump has to come off before you can remove the accessory case. None of this is difficult and if you get a good deal on an engine, it might be well worth the effort.
 
Mine is bigger than yours!

Yah yah... A nicely build 320, IMHO is just as good if not better than a 360. I know of a few 7's that sold in the 95-100K range, very nice planes with
320's. I've always loved the 320... most are bullet proof engines. It's all in the Myth.
 
Sump change

I'm building a 9A and I bought a used engine before I realized that certain ones interfered with the nose wheel strut. I have a O320-B2B and I bought about $300 worth of parts from Mattituck plus I got the correct sump off VAF for $100. Supposely it's pretty easy to switch. You have to change the oil pick up location inside the sump and swap out the intake tubes. I haven't done it yet but hope to get started on it in a few weeks. I paid just over $7k for the engine which has I think about 600 hours on its first rebuild. If you get a deal on an engine, swapping the sump might be something to consider if it's as easy as I'm told. We'll see.

Yet another reason I should have listened to myself and built the tail dragger!! Oh well.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for everyones help

So if I understand what is being said, I should;

1. Research the parts catalog for the engine that has the set up I want.

2. Find a good deal on a used engine that is realitively close to what I'm looking for.

3. Break out the check book and purchase the parts I want that are not on the engine I buy, i.e. Accessory's case with provisions for fuel pump, Sump with a centered or forward carb etc.

I can do that.
 
Rodney,

It is my undersanding (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that you won't have any issues with the -7, only the -7A. This is because the nosewheel gets in the way.

Your question asked about a -7A but your KitLog shows a -7, so I wasn't sure if you are asking for yourself or someone else.
 
You can even change the sump

I got a great deal on a used O-320 B2B before I realized that the rear mounted carb wouldn't work on my 9A due to interference. I called Mattituck who explained exactly what I needed to do and what parts to order. For about $300, they sent me the parts. One top of that of course, was the pricey sump. I got a great deal on a sump from a guy on this list (who I will once again thank via PM).

In addition to just changing out the sump, you have to change the way the oil is picked up. This got me nervous but it turned out to be a piece of cake.

You have to remove the oil tube then make yourself a cover plate to go into its place. I got some gasket material from the auto parts store and safety wired the plate in place. I basically copied the safety wire job that is on the oil pump.

Then, there is an Allen Plug at the bottom of the fuel pump that you remove. That allows the pump to suck up the oil through the wall of the sump. I have the old oil pick up at the left in the picture and the plug is at the bottom.

img5903fb3.jpg


img5904lt8.jpg


So, for about $400, I was able to make the change. If you get a great deal on an engine, this might be an option for you too.

Oh, and sorry for repeating myself with much of the same information in a previous post. I didn't realized I had posted previously. My bad.
 
Last edited:
Kelly,

You are well on your way.

One thing about your safety wire on the plug, it should S turn around the nuts in such a way as the nuts put the wire in tension should they try to loosen.
 
Actually, looking at that safety wire job, it looks fine. The wire is going through the studs, and just holding the castle nuts in place. The reason for this over cotter pins is the possibility them coming out.
 
osxuser said:
Actually, looking at that safety wire job, it looks fine. The wire is going through the studs, and just holding the castle nuts in place. The reason for this over cotter pins is the possibility them coming out.
Click to expand...
I disagree, if you put in safety wire, it should be installed to prevent the nuts from coming loose, even a little. If those back off, even a little, that plate may allow the oil pump to suck air.

Do it right the first time as it will be a long time before that accessory case comes off again.
 
Yea, I thought I should do the S-turn but I reasoned that the wires are subs for the cotter pins. Plus, those are bolts that go through the accessory case. I could have turned the bolts I guess so that I'd get an S but I reasoned that the bolts could eventually turn anyway. Maybe the answer is to point the holes in the bolts towards each other and then safety wire? This would keep the bolts from rotating AND keep the nuts from coming loose. What do you think? I want to do this right.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.