The correct length for any rivet is one that extends 1 1/2D beyond the part to be riveted before driving.
 
Use the gauge

I thought so also. I squeezed the first -12 in there and it cleated over BIG TIME. The -11's produced a much better shop head. Quite difficult to prevent cleating on these, especially if your holes are not dead-on centered.

OR, you could just weld the ends on there.

When in doubt, use the rivet length gauge, or measure the material and break out you calculator a la Chapter 5 in your builders manual.
 
hand squeezer

use the hand squeezer with the tube held in a padded vise and you can shoot even the -12's however most people use 11's i had a fit with these.
 
Last edited:
It sticks out almost a quarter inch with the -12, so I guess a -11 would be in order for this application.
 
math

1/8 x 1.5 is almost a 1/4 inch. and you have alot of unsupported rivet shank in the tube. just do what ever gets the correct shop head . if a 10 11 or 12 then go with what works for you. but as said before, tube in vise ,slow steady, coercing squeeze.
 
Last edited: