Hangar Thoughts
I have a farm shop 36X48 with in floor heat and really like it. As was pointed out, recovery time can be slow if one lets it get really cold. If one opens the door, gets the plane out and closes it, it's not too bad.
I also have an unheated 48X72 pole shed with a poured floor and a 40' Hi-Fold door.
I try to face big doors to the east or south because they get too much wind and snow from the north and west in the upper midwest in winter.
It's a delight to work in a facility where there is no flowing air, where it's as warm on the floor as it is 16' feet high.
If you do in floor heat, be careful to plan all your installations ahead of time. I wish I had added a jib boom crane to my shop, but it's too late now to put one in. You might want to pour some deep pads and put some recessed bolts in them if you think you may wish something later but don't want to commit. If you ever think you'd like a hook to use to hold the tail down, for example, put it in when you pour.
I think my floor heat cost me about $7,000. I use a conventional hot water heater that runs on LP and leave it on all year round at 60?F. Coming in from the cold, in 10 minutes you take you coat off and in 30 minutes you have your cap off if you are active.
I put 2" blue board and visquine under my floor. I poured it as a slab but probably should have poured a rat barrier. Run the heat out far enough to thaw under the door so it doesn't freeze down. If you use a hydroswing door make sure the usual snow and ice won't prevent it from swinging. I have Hi-Fold doors on mine.
I would not use a drain system. I have on in my shop and don't use it.
Mine buldings are both pole construction. Poles will rot off in 30 years or less. I'm old enough that I don't care. You can put poles on top of the concrete pad or put them on a pony wall, in which case you can even use simple frame construction.
My shop is insulated with 6" bat and has a ceiling with 12" blown in. I put 2" foam in the door. The doors have an engineered weight, so think before putting heavy siding on the door. My shop door has 30 gauge steel on the inside becuase I dont' want any fire danger. The machine shed just has regular siding but it has a couple of sheets that are translucent and are very good for light. New stuff that doesn't crack.
I put the doors in the gable ends because you can have lower walls. The Hi-Fold and hydroswing doors don't cost much headroom. One additional truss rafter will serve as the header so you don't have to put in an extra header.
