Mark Burns

Mark Burns

Well Known Member
What drawing has the information about extending the inside of the airscoop on the lower cowling to mate with the carb airbox?

I can't find it.

Thanks,
Mark
 
Mark, EAA tech counselor helping me drives a 8A, ( 2 blade fixed). He did not extend his airscoop. FAB airseals against front of cowl, very nice fit and he tells me he has no trouble removing lower cowl.










Bruce 9A and almost there
 
Mark:

The drawing is at the end of the drawing package that comes with the FAB subkit. Drop me a PM with a fax number if you can't find yours (or reply with it here). I can fax it to you on Thursday.

Mine is a 7A also.

Jekyll
 
Thanks guys

Bruce,
I never thought of not making the extension. I'll look at that possiblity.

Jekyll,
I got the whole fax. That's just what I needed.
I really appreciate it!

Mark
 
I didn't either...

I did not extend the cowl inlet when I built my -4. Sometimes, it seems to be more of a pain than others to remove the lower cowl, but I am not convinced that extending the inlet would necessarily make it easier. Over the years, I have scratched the paint of the most forward portion of the cowl as I attempt to clear the spinner bulkhead. I am currently replacing the hinge strips and would happily take the opportunity to improve the situation, but I'm not sure what would work better.
 
Shorten the FAB?

Did you guys who didn't extend the inlet lips still shorten the forward end of the FAB to clear the back edge of the lower cowl inlet area per the instructions? I've got 2" between the cowl inlet lip back edge and the forward edge of the FAB. I'd rather not build a 'glass tunnel if I could just use baffle rubber to span the gap.

Steve
 
I installed FAB rubber in one piece with the seam (overlap) at the bottom , per techs suggestion. Holds a nice shape and seals tight. Bottom seam lets cowl easily drop down.










Bruce
 
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