Me too...
Painted mine as well in sections, using single stage urethane over Variprime and light sealer coat. Materials cost was about $1000.00, less paper and tape. Used Western Finishes 3rd. dimension automotive paint, a popular choice for painting over the road trucks, and I am very happy with the results. Easy to use, very durable, high solids product with a fantastic gloss. I get lots of comments on the paint work, but I truthfully didn't set my sights on a show quality job....My only regret is installation of the super high dollar clear 3M leading edge tape. BIG, BIG MISTAKE!!!! Bug guts stain it orange. 100LL stains it blue, 140 hours and it looks like #### The urethane paint releases the bugs and debris with a cold water spritz!! Save your money, or use the black stuff.
The trick is to find a way to support all of the parts properly while painting. Search the archives for some great ideas here. Also, as I have posted before, paint the belly before you roll over the fuse. Get your antenna doublers in there, and lower cowl hinges or camlock supports and paint to the sheet metal overlaps. except for fitting your upper intersection fairings, you will not even be under there much any more. The hardest part is laying on your back to paint the belly. Avoid this hassle all together, and shoot it first.
I will admit I have painted a few cars, so I have some experience wielding a paint gun. But I switched to a HVLP turbine sprayer system for this project. There is a definite learning curve to overcome with the turbine sprayer, as it has much better transfer efficiency, and lays on a bunch of paint. It requires retarding the flash an extra notch to compensate for the hot air the turbine delivers, and some adjustments in handling the gun with it's chubby hose. A little practice is all it takes. I have not yet tried metallics with this system, so I cannot comment on how it works. Metallics, flip flops, and pearls are tricky for the first time painter. Seek some coaching and practice if you go this route.
I always try to get folks to tackle the painting themselves. It is a lot of work, messy, and extremely rewarding. Those of us who don't have unlimited cash flow find great relief in tackling the project. It saves a ton of bucks, and can reduce the cost of your plane by as much as 15 percent.
Also, if on a budget, don't overlook using some of the more affordable automotive finish options. The big company's all have non branded products available that can be had at great savings. (DuPont/Nason, Martin Senour/Western, etc). I use the Nason version of Variprime, same product at less than half the cost.
Lastly, I am not sold yet on waterborne finishes. For instance. My 2007 Pontiac Vibe has a white waterborne finish that is completely deteriorated to the point that the car will get a repaint this year. Absolutely horrible paint finish durability. It sits in my driveway right next to my pewter 2001 Chevy pickup. I bought it almost new but heavily damaged in 2001, straightened it out, and painted it in inexpensive 2 stage base clear from Nason. It amazes me that it still looks like the day I rolled it out of the booth. I wash it infrequently, and it sits in the blazing NC summer sun day after day. I worry about the durability of waterborne finishes on aircraft, especially if they sit on the ramp. They look real nice though, and I have heard they are easy to use.
see my photos on Facebook...here's the link!!
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/album.php?aid=13861&id=1061327521
Regards,
Chris