Jeff R

Jeff R

Well Known Member
The fuselage kit is set to be shipped the week after next so it is time for me to make the final payment. I have also pre-ordered the following to ship with the kit and wanted to see what you all thought.

Step Kit, Left and Right: Do I really need these? I am 6', so should I get one for only the right side?

Brake, Dual Overhead: Since the wife wants to learn to fly, I figured it would be wise to get two sets of brakes so the plane can be flown (or taxied) from either side.

Static Air Kit: Van's is only $19, but would it be better to get a different kit, such as from Safe Air?

Manual Aileron Trim: Is this a nice thing to have? It is only $46....


Comments and other suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
You definitely want the steps on a 9A, my installed steps are 22" off the ground. Getting in without the steps would be difficult for most people. Electric aileron trim is nice if you want to trim from buttons on your grip, otherwise mechanical is just as good, I think you will want SOME kind of aileron trim though. I bought Vans static Pitot system and ended up installing a mixture of his tubing with another vendors ports, at $19 is hard to go wrong.
 
fuel stuff

And buy the following items:
1. electric Facet fuel pump if you're using a carburetor
2. gascolator doubler and install it when you assemble the firewall
3. extra red (18-22 ga) and blue (14-16 ga) ring terminals and butt splices
4. extra snap bushings, assorted sizes from 1/4" id thru 5/8" id
5. stick grips
6. extra Adele clamps, #3,4,5,6, and 12 for hanging wires off the engine mount and static tube along longeron
7. strobe / elt mount(s)
8. 18-22 ga wire
9. the fancy red fuel selector handle

Steve
 
do this

1. Get the steps (for sure)
2. If you are going to install a wing leveler auto pilot, I wouldn't even install aileron trim at all.
3. get the safe air or similar static kit if you don't mind spending the extra few bucks over Vans kit.
4. For my money, the manual elevator trim is the way to go also, although you didn't ask about that.

take care
 
Steve said:
9. the fancy red fuel selector handle
Click to expand...
Don't buy this, get the Andair valve, much better unit, even if it is costly.

Brakes for the right side?

Sound proofing and carpeting. Much easier to fit while building the fuselage. You can install it later.

Crotch strap kit

Affordable Panels panel (If you can get one)

Strobe kit (You will be mounting it soon)

ELT (See strobe kit)

Also, when you need to buy a $20 part, include an expensive item with it. That will help spread the costs out. For example, I ordered my airspeed indicator with some small part and put it on the shelf. It is not like they are going to go bad.
 
Crotch Strap Kit

Bill, do you know if one needs the crotch strap kit, even if going without Van's harnesses? Do both Crow and Hooker require this, or do they provide their own?
 
Rich-

Yes, you need the crotch strap kit for any of the five point harness systems. They do not come with the belts.
 
If you buy the Andair valve from Van's, will they give a credit for not using their stock valve?
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, most of which I will follow. To answer my own question above, I did talk to Van's and they will issue a credit for the stock valve, so I am going with the 90 degree Andair valve.
 
get the manual aileron trim even if you do have an autopilot. You're not going to use the autopilot all the time. Mine is my tank switching indicator. When the lever is all the way over its time!

Dual brakes aren't necessary unless you plan to have a co-pilot land the thing or you will be doing transition training. I have installed them in mine and have never used them.

If your 6' tall don't worry about the step on the pilot side. I have none on mine and would install it on the passenger side. I've had a number of occasions where passengers were trying to step on the flap (ouch!).

Doug Meloche
RV6 180hrs
 
Options

Step Kit, Left and Right: Do I really need these? I am 6', so should I get one for only the right side?
Click to expand...

I'm building a -9 so no steps for me - sorry.

Brake, Dual Overhead: Since the wife wants to learn to fly, I figured it would be wise to get two sets of brakes so the plane can be flown (or taxied) from either side.
Click to expand...

This is purely a choice by you. They can always be installed later, I have mine coming with the kit.

Static Air Kit: Van's is only $19, but would it be better to get a different kit, such as from Safe Air?
Click to expand...

I went with a different vender for my static equipment and I'm going to use dual external static sources.

Manual Aileron Trim: Is this a nice thing to have? It is only $46....
Click to expand...

Good luck with your choices.....

I went with the manual aileron trim - nice option without the worries of the possible eletrical malfunctions.
 
Jeff R said:
Thanks for all the suggestions, most of which I will follow. To answer my own question above, I did talk to Van's and they will issue a credit for the stock valve, so I am going with the 90 degree Andair valve.
Click to expand...
Jeff,

This IS a good valve but see if you can't get the FS 20 type 7. This one has 90 degrees between left and right vs the 180 degrees in thee FS 20 type 3. This making switching between left and right much easier and faster. The nice part of these valves is that you have to lift up on the pin to turn them off but not to switch between left and right.

Either way, you can't go wrong.
 
N941WR said:
Strobe kit (You will be mounting it soon)

ELT (See strobe kit)
Click to expand...

Bill, if ordering the strobe/ELT mounts, do you get a left and a right? Van's web store isn't real clear on why there are a left and right mount.
 
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May want to rethink the steps

Robert M said:
I'm building a -9 so no steps for me - sorry.
Click to expand...

You may want to talk to Bill about that. I have steps on my RV9. It started life as a 9A and I'm glad I decided not to remove them. The flap on a 9 does not get out of the way like it does on the other 2 place RV's. If you want some photos of the step in relation to the flap on an RV9, let me know.

Cam
 
Robert M said:
Bill, if ordering the strobe/ELT mounts, do you get a left and a right? Van's web store isn't real clear on why there are a left and right mount.
Click to expand...
I don't know. I mounted both the strobe power pack and ELT under the baggage compartment floor. My goal was to keep all the weight in the center of the plane AND Van's didn't have those mounts at the time. If building today, I would use the new mounts.


N916K said:
You may want to talk to Bill about that. I have steps on my RV9. It started life as a 9A and I'm glad I decided not to remove them. The flap on a 9 does not get out of the way like it does on the other 2 place RV's. If you want some photos of the step in relation to the flap on an RV9, let me know.

Cam
Click to expand...
Cam is right, it is a long step up to the wing of a -9. Those steps, although not required for us young folks, would be very helpful for older passengers. The wing is not only high but steep. I tend to keep my flaps down to force people to step over them.
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions.

I ended up with the Andair 90 degree valve. Van's is giving me a credit for the stock valve.

I will go with dual steps and brakes. I will also go with the Safe Air static system (those guys are fantastic to work with) and I just ordered the mounting brackets from Stein for a Tru Trak ADI II AP as I am nearly ready to start closing up my wings. Not sure if I will actually install an AP at this point, but at least I will have the brackets! And, what else? Oh, I am getting the manual aileron trim.

I am getting some of the other misc items that were suggested now, and will get some othe other things later when needed.

Thanks to all.
 
Left and Right Van's ELT/Strobe mounts

My friend Mike was going to install the strobe and ELT in the fuselage just on the right side but because of the fuselage taper you can't fit two of Vans mounts on one side. He found this out only after ordering two right side mounts and trying to install them. He had to order a left side mount for the ELT. His strobe is on the right side. The fuselage taper is why there is a left and a right. I now have the other right side mount for my 9A.
 
Get the finish kit also - at least the engine mount. It's so much easier to drill the firewall for it when you're building up the firewall, which is an early task. Once the fuse is assembled positioning, clamping, and drilling is a real pain. Same idea for anything else attached to the firewall: contactors, shunt, battery & box (get this on line - way cheaper than Van's), parking brake valve(?), heater valve, etc.

John Siebold
2 1/2 RV-7s and some of a -6.
 
Another thing to consider is the F-697 channel. This goes on the bulkhead immediately forward of the panel. It was not included in my fuselage kit, and if you want to build up this part of the airframe, it is useful to have everything.

Someone should post a list of the "real" options that first-time builders should consider for each kit. I know that I have bought some "extra" things already that I will probably not use.

greg
 
RV7ator said:
Get the finish kit also - at least the engine mount. It's so much easier to drill the firewall for it when you're building up the firewall, which is an early task.
Click to expand...


Good suggestion....if I just knew for sure at this point which engine I was going to use! If I figure it out, I will take your suggestion and order the mount seperately, along with the other things you and Greg suggest. Thanks.
 
The engine mount is almost a no-brainer. The Dynafocal II (geesh!, or is it Dynafocal I) mounts nearly all of the Lycs RVers us. The only alternatives are conical, and Dynafocal I (or is it II?), and those engines are real rare. Ask Van's.

John Siebold
 
John Tipton said:
Hi

May I suggest: Fresh Air vent system and (possibly) Map box

Cheers - John
Click to expand...
Good idea on the NACA ducts but they can wait. I just read that you can leave that area open and reach up in there to rivet on the top skin. Not a bad idea at all. Forgo those cheap plastic vents and pop for the good metal ones. After flying this weekend with OATs in the 40's and no air leaks, we were very happy.

The Map box is your call. The positioning of this thing is very limited. I have one I couldn't install and didn't find this out until after I made it.
 
Greg Arehart said:
Someone should post a list of the "real" options that first-time builders should consider for each kit. I know that I have bought some "extra" things already that I will probably not use.
Click to expand...
Good idea, and why don't I make a try at that. I'm going to order a -9A QB fuse and wing kit this week so have a real need for such a list. I'll generate a draft list, post here, get feedback, change it, until it's good.

Meanwhile I need to decide on manual vs. electric aileron trim. I definitely want aileron trim even though I plan on eventually installing an autopilot. I've read several threads that discuss this but still can't figure out what the advantages/disadvantages of each are. If someone can reply who has built and flown with both and thus can authoritatively compare them, that would be great.

BTW, I guess the RVs don't use rudder trim? If not, why aileron trim and not rudder?

Thanks in Advance and I'll start the draft list of items to consider along with a -9 kit.
 
What to Get With Fuselage Kit--Draft List 1

Here's the first draft of a list of what's needed along with the fuselage kit. Post additions and corrections, I'll insert them until we run out of changes. Also posted in RV General Discussion/News since these probably aren't -9 specific.

What to Get With Fuselage Kit​

Decisions on the ordering form
------------------------------

Tailwheel or Nosewheel ($620 extra)
This choice is well-known and discussed, so no more here. I could say "don't be a dinosaur, quit dragging your tail!" but I won't.

Tip-Up or Sliding Canopy
See this comprehensive and efficiently presented comparison at http://www.foua.org/Misc/Tip-up_or_sliding.pdf
Something needs to be selected when ordering, but the final choice can be changed just
before shipment of the fuse kit.

Float Fuel Sending Units or Capacitive (Standard Kit only)
I guess you need something, so why not order Van's? Are there preferred alternate suppliers of fuel senders?

VFR Instrument Panel
Most will want to do their own Panel layout...

Electric Elevator Trim ($80 credit)
Choice is made in Empennage purchase, if you bought electric you get $80 back here (no trim cables needed). Electric trim considered easier to install since you only run two wires instead of the trim
cables.

Step Kit, Left and/or Right
"...installed steps are 22" off the ground. Getting in without the steps would be difficult for most people." Considered nearly a must-install item, even for tailwheels.

Dual Brakes (Pax side) ($185)
Not a lot of money and provides full control from either seat. But something else to leak or fail. A wash.

Static Air Kit
"I bought Van's static Pitot system and ended up installing a mixture of his tubing with another vendor's ports, at $19 is hard to go wrong." Safe Air considered a good alternate choice.

Aileron Trim: Manual ($46), Electric (285), none
Consensus is you want some trim control...
"Electric aileron trim is nice if you want to trim from buttons on your grip, otherwise mechanical is just as good, I think you will want SOME kind of aileron trim though."

Other Items That Are Easier to Install During Fuse Construction
---------------------------------------------------------------

**Electric Facet fuel pump if you're using a carburetor.

**Gascolator doubler and install it when you assemble the firewall.

**Strobe / ELT / Autopilot mount(s)
Install the mounts for these during fuse building.
"...because of the fuselage taper you can't fit two of Van's mounts on one side....the fuselage taper is why there is a left and a right."

**Fuel selector valve/handle
Van's will issue a credit if you don't get their valve.

"Don't buy [Van's], get the Andair valve, much better unit, even if it is costly."

"This IS a good valve but see if you can't get the FS 20x7 (e.g. http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf). This one has 90 degrees between left and right vs the 180 degrees in the FS 20 type 3. This making switching between left and right much easier and faster. The nice part of these valves is that you have to lift up on the pin to turn them off but not to switch between left and right."

Note: Seems valve type depends on carburetor or fuel injection. Check carefully for your engine!

**Sound proofing and carpeting.
"Much easier to fit while building the fuselage. You can install it later."

**Crotch strap kit
"...you need the crotch strap kit for any of the five point harness systems. They do not come with the belts."

**Fresh Air vent system
"Good idea on the NACA ducts but they can wait. I just read that you can leave that area open and reach up in there to rivet on the top skin. Not a bad idea at all. Forgo those cheap plastic vents and pop for the good metal ones."

**Map box
"The Map box is your call. The positioning of this thing is very limited. I have one I couldn't install and didn't find this out until after I made it."

**Finish kit
"...at least the engine mount. It's so much easier to drill the firewall for it when you're building up the firewall, which is an early task. Once the fuse is assembled positioning, clamping, and drilling is a real pain. Same idea for anything else attached to the firewall: contactors, shunt, battery & box (get this online - way cheaper than Van's), parking brake valve(?), heater valve, etc."

**F-697 channel
"This goes on the bulkhead immediately forward of the panel. It was not included in my fuselage kit, and if you want to build up this part of the airframe, it is useful to have everything."

Odds-n-Ends
-----------

**Extra red (18-22 ga) and blue (14-16 ga) ring terminals and butt splices.

**Extra snap bushings, assorted sizes from 1/4"id thru 5/8"id

**Extra Adele clamps, #3,4,5,6, and 12 for hanging wires off the engine mount and static tube along longeron
 
I just found out that my fuselage kit was indeed shipped last week and will arrive in the local area Friday. I will not take delivery until next Tuesday, however, as that is when the AFB truck that has a lift gate will be my area. I should add that when ABF first called me, they said it would be an additonal $115 for a lift gate truck. I told them they didn't charge me that the last time (wing kit). They checked and said that, indeed, their arrangement with Vans was for free residential delivery (with a lift gate truck). I could go pick up the shipment and have it Friday, but since I won't be quite done with my wings, I don't mind waiting a few more days.

On a side note, I had a tech counselor come over the weekend before last before I started closing up my wings, and he described my work as "excellent craftmanship". <blush> The better compliment to me, though, was that he said he would want to go flying with me in it later.

Anyway, I am glad to see that this thread has been expanded by Ralph Finch. I think a lot of rthe esponses apply to most all of the RV series of aircraft. I also like it that John Edwards is tying to compile a list of common deviations and plans modifications. That would be very timely for me as I move into the fuselage.
 
where o where is F-697?

Greg Arehart said:
Another thing to consider is the F-697 channel. This goes on the bulkhead immediately forward of the panel. It was not included in my fuselage kit, and if you want to build up this part of the airframe, it is useful to have everything.
greg
Click to expand...
Hi Greg - or anyone - can someone provide a drawing reference for F-697? I can't find it anywhere...

Thanks,
 
24A

Dave,

Its on drawing 24A (tipup). Looks to me like it is NOT included/necessary if you have a slider (drawing 24).

greg
 
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