Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
It's a good thing that troubleshooting systems failures has been a big part of my career - the training for owning airplanes is priceless! take, for instance, the following tale of electronic woe.....

Several weeks ago, Louise started noting that she was having problems with her Number 1 Comm, an SL-30. She couldn’t put her finger on it, but she seemed to be missing calls, and occasionally, others couldn’t hear her. The problem seemed to be intermittent, and she got mixed results when she did voice checks with the Tower folks at the other end of her daily commute. We couldn’t be absolutely sure that it wasn’t an audio system problem, as there were times that the Number 2 Comm (an A-200) seemed to join in the fun…puzzling.

It finally reached the point where we had to do some systematic troubleshooting, the intermittent nature having settled down to “every flight” and becoming more than just an annoyance. The first and easiest thing to do was swap headsets, so we pulled out a practically-new ANR Lightspeed we keep for passengers, and tried that. The problem persisted. Next, I thought that maybe it was the headset jacks that had gotten “tweaked”, and weren’t making good contact, so I dove under the panel and gave them a nice squeeze. More flying with the two of us – good intercom, problems with Number 1 Comm. We could bring in AWOS’s at the start of a flight, but as the flight progressed, they became less and less reliable, until finally, we couldn’t hear a nearby (5 miles) station. Hmmm….range dependent, and worse with time. Antenna issues? Heat related problems?

We did some two-ship local flying, separating in different directions to put some distance between us, and sure enough, the SL-30 just seemed to die slowly, and become useless after ten minutes. Since we have interchangeable audio panels, I figured it would be quick and easy to rule out that part of the fault tree, so we swapped an launched again. The problem….persisted! (And it didn’t swap airplanes, so we knew her audio panel was good. It was not looking good for the radio….)

I put out a call for anyone close by that might have an SL-30 we could borrow. Sure enough, a local RVater was down for an engine overhaul. He had his panel out and at home, and was gracious enough to let us borrow his unit for a day. We made a short evening flight, and wow – did it sound great! After ten minutes, it still sounded good, so I told Louise I was headed home, and landed – and didn’t hear from her again until she taxied up to the hangar. The problem had…persisted! (I had turned back too early….)

OK, so it’s not the radio – could it be the antenna? Heat/time problem with an antenna? Well, it wasn’t hard to test – I crawled back under the panel (by now, I have a system – it involves big pillows…), and swapped the antennas between the two Comm radios. Too late to go flying, we hooked the airplane up to external power and let the radios warm up – then I took a walk with our handheld. Sure enough – the problem persisted! I couldn’t get more than 200 feet away before she couldn’t hear me on the SL-30. And the mosquitoes were in attack mode. I was not happy.

So it’s not the radios, the antennas, the audio panel, headsets, audio wiring…the only thing left was the audio connections between the SL-30 rack and the audio panel rack, plus the short little pigtail antenna connectors on the SL-30 rack.

Now, we had built this panel from scratch about a year and a half ago, and it had worked just fine until this recent problem. Most of the panel was new, but the SL-30 was a carryover from the old panel, Louise having bought it about three years ago with a pre-wired harness. The rack came with the Garmin right-angle BNC connectors prewired with 12” Coax pigtails terminated in Male BNC connectors. For those not familiar with the radio, it has two identical antenna connections, one for Comm and one for NAV, on opposite corners of the rack. The connectors are proprietary little buggers from Garmin with little mounting ears to screw them to the rack. They are the kind where you have to put the coax through from the side, and add one tiny drop of solder to join the center conductor of the connector to the center conductor of the Coax. Very ticklish little things. and impossible to find, except in an install kit from the “Big G”.

This evening, when Louise flew home from work, I pulled out my tools and dove once again under the panel. I was a man on a mission, with my headlamp lighting the way and tools in my mouth, It didn’t take too long to get the pigtail liberated from the rack, and over to the workbench. I unscrewed the cap, and began a forensic investigation.

IMG_7194.JPG


As I unscrewed the nut that holds the outside braid to the connector body, I saw a curious thing – the center conductor was turning with the jacket – it wasn’t fixed to the blob of solder on the center post! Rather, it was turning WITHIN the blob of solder! It was not firmly attached – captured, but free to move. Given the incredibly hot temperatures we have been seeing, and the odd nature of RF problems, I became excited – I may not have found THE problem, but I sure found A problem! Out came the soldering iron, and I rebuilt the joint to specifications – nice and tight, with no movement, and no shorts (as checked by the DVM). Crawled back in the plane, invigorated by the fact that I’d actually found something, and had everything back together in 20 minutes. Ready for a test flight….which had to wait until the next day, as it was late, and I had "real" work to do...(which didn't pan out, unfortunately - hydrogen leaks are BAD!).

The next evening, Louise and I took off in both planes in quick succession for some in-flight testing, heading away from each other to check the range. Fifteen minutes later, we knew we had a winner - the radio was loud and clear, with no fading! I sure am glad that worked, 'cause if it hadn't, my next step was going to be to call an exorcist.....patience my eye....;)

Paul
 
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Nice fault tree analysis. Cold solder joints are a real pain in the main, especially with RF.
 
Not- the

... antenna coax
that was my guess at first.
But the antenna coax in back of the SL-30?
This is why I want removable panels on any RV so I don?t have to take the seat out - throw pillows and become a pretzel?good divide and find- Paul
 
It seems like you always find the problem in the last thing you look at.
Your story makes me want to get my wife an RV so I can better trouble shoot any comm issues.
 
Looks to me like the key part was

getting a transition from intermittent manua hair-remover to
repeatable failure mode.

They always look at you funny when you ask if it does it every time, and cheer when they say "yes".
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Good job. I haven't seen one like that yet.
Root cause? Initial workmanship, or high temp while vibrating?
 
logical

It seems like you always find the problem in the last thing you look at.
Your story makes me want to get my wife an RV so I can better trouble shoot any comm issues.

When you put it in those terms, it seems like it should fall under the ulimited household "tools" budget.
 
Root cause? Initial workmanship, or high temp while vibrating?

I am leading to a vibrating-while-hot failure. It worked without a problem for probably three years, and has seen some temperature extremes. It has recently gotten pretty warm here, and "Mikey" has been spending more time sitting out on the ramp at College Station during the day, while Louise is at work - that probably contributes to the heat problem.

Paul
 
Electrical trouble shooting

Congrats Paul,

Been there and done that! When looking for a problem, it feels so good to at least find something wrong. A few weeks ago, I was flying the slot in a four ship when I realized that I was not receiving any radio calls from lead. I also got static in the side band whenever I tried to transmit. I guessed it to be an RF problem. I was unable to find anything wrong, so I just cleaned all the RF connections and reseated the two Garman 250XL connectors. The problem went away for now. At least I didn't find any Hydrogen leaks!
 
It seems like you always find the problem in the last thing you look at.
Your story makes me want to get my wife an RV so I can better trouble shoot any comm issues.

Speaking of com issues, I had an unusually persistent, irritating amount of static flying into Spirit yesterday east of the field - really thought it perhaps was a Paul discovery issue. But low and behold, when switching frequencies after landing, it went away. Departing, same thing, so I am not looking for a loose soldier joint today. There was a problem on the frequency. :)

Last week I was going nuts over a 10 knot error with Dynon, turned out it was a very simple problem with a loose fitting, almost sent the unit back for a check up....it pays to check everything and sometimes the most obvious fixes are the last to be addressed.
 
I found that when I wired up the com and nav cables to my SL30 tray a similar situation happened to me. I put the cable center conductor in the center 'stud' of the Garmin connector and applied the blob of solder. At first glance it appeared to be a good joint. Just to be safe, I looked at it with a magnifying glass (and wearing my reading glasses too - I HATE age related vision change :mad:). Lo and behold the solder blob had bridged across the two ears of the center stud making it appear to be a good joint, when in fact it was not. The cable center conductor had not sucked in solder to make it a good joint. So more heat was applied and the second time around the joint was indeed a good one. That connector requires a lot of heat to get good solder flow out, and it is my opinion it is a poorly designed connector.
 
I found that when I wired up the com and nav cables to my SL30 tray a similar situation happened to me. I put the cable center conductor in the center 'stud' of the Garmin connector and applied the blob of solder. At first glance it appeared to be a good joint. Just to be safe, I looked at it with a magnifying glass (and wearing my reading glasses too - I HATE age related vision change :mad:). Lo and behold the solder blob had bridged across the two ears of the center stud making it appear to be a good joint, when in fact it was not. The cable center conductor had not sucked in solder to make it a good joint. So more heat was applied and the second time around the joint was indeed a good one. That connector requires a lot of heat to get good solder flow out, and it is my opinion it is a poorly designed connector.

Did you tin the center conductor first? If you tin both the lead and the center post of the connector, all it take is a little heat and the two should flow together.

Paul
 
I had similar difficulties soldering the SL40 antenna cable

I had an exact same experience soldering the antenna cable core wire to this 'fitting'.

I am supposed to be trained in MilSpec soldering techniques and have managed production technical issues such as this for more years than I care to admit, yet I had similar difficulties - inability to get good solder wet out on this connection.

I think the crux of the issue is that the connector pin to which you are soldering is a relatively large mass, it takes a considerable amount of energy to get that pin up to temperature especially when using a small tipped iron necessary for access. Only when the pin is up to temperature will the solder flow through the wire and pin.

Also, the correct method* for terminating to this post includes a 3/4 wrap of wire around the post. That is, lay the wire into the gap and continue the wire wrapping it around the post.

Solder - lots of heat - but don't dwell too long since the connector insulation may begin to melt. Then very carefully inspect for solder wetout.

Doug

* - according to just about every standard I have seen
 
Did you tin the center conductor first? If you tin both the lead and the center post of the connector, all it take is a little heat and the two should flow together.

I did....but the first attempt resulted in a poor joint. More heat did the trick...
 
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I think the crux of the issue is that the connector pin to which you are soldering is a relatively large mass, it takes a considerable amount of energy

I agree. WAY too much metal to heat up for a good joint. And as you pointed out, if it gets heated too much you risk melting the center insulator. A poor design on an otherwise excellent radio.
 
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