A

ao.frog

Well Known Member
Hi.

I'm wondering what kind of tailwheel fork I schould use for the first flight?

I've ordered the Bell fork, but maybe the Vans one are more "forgiving" for a tailwheel rookie?
I remember seeing some discussions about this in a few earlier posts.

My background:

Just completed tailwheel training (50+ landings with an TD instructor on a Cub)
Then I'm planning on doing 50-100 landings on that one during spring and early summer.

Then my plans are to check out on a "Cap-10" (French aerobatic taildragger with somewhat similar handling qualities to a RV), then I'll do about 50+ landings on that one too.

Finally check out on a RV-4 and do 50+ landings on that one and maybe some on a RV-6.

I've flown "trikes" for 30 years (F-5, F-16 and 737), but I guess those landings doesn't "count" in this sceneario...

So what do you RV TD-guys recommend: should I install the Vans fork to start with or go with the Bell right away?

(For the record, The Bell fork will be the fork I'll use permanently later on ofcourse...)
 
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Actually it's the connection between the tail wheel fork and the rudder that makes the difference, not the actual fork.

I went with the Bell fork along with the silver bullet spring. I had much less tail wheel time than you and it works great for me.
 
Fork won't matter

N916K said:
Actually it's the connection between the tail wheel fork and the rudder that makes the difference, not the actual fork.

I went with the Bell fork along with the silver bullet spring. I had much less tail wheel time than you and it works great for me.
Click to expand...

I agree. I'd go with the Bell fork, but I also wouldn't do a first flight with my modest experience. When I started with the tailwheel and a Van's set-up for the linkage, we first tightened the chains as much as reasonable and that helped me a lot. I got a Silverbullet early on, and I've really liked it. But, one of my much more experienced friends likes a (very) little looseness in his linkage. So, your experience may vary.

Good luck!
 
It is good you are getting time in those different planes. That will help you adjust to the RV in very short order.

I have the Bell fork with the Van's chains. The chains are installed per Van's recommendation with one exception. I used I-Bolts on the rudder and tail wheel so the chains are a little more horizontal. Click on this picture:
.

The I-Bolt on the rudder bottom is pointing down. This also helps alleviate the problem of the chains wearing through the rudder horn, which I have seen on a number of RV's. Heck, it's easier to change the I-Bolt than the rudder.

This change to the chain angle helps give you a little better feel, IMHO.

Other than that, either fork will work as the RV is such an easy tail dragger to fly.
 
Tail wheel

I'd probably start with the Vans.
Vans T/W on grass will keep the tail behind you a little better because it drags and digs into the grass. The fork will plow a bit. This could be a good thing while you get the feel of the airplane. Later you switch to the bell, when your feet are fully into the whole process.
It's a bit more draggy on hard surface as well, just watch out for raised tie downs and other non smooth areas. (pavement cracks)
In summery, Vans will help you learn, but Bell's is better for the long run.
good luck,
DM
PS
with the experience you listed, your probably ready for either. RV's are pretty tame.
 
Louise Hose said:
But, one of my much more experienced friends likes a (very) little looseness in his linkage. So, your experience may vary.
Click to expand...

If you fly with Mike Seager, his RV-7 is so lose that the rudder pedals do very little to control the tail wheel.

Cam
 
Thanks

Thanks for the inputs guys.
Now I've more info so I can make a decition.

The chain looseness is very interesting. And when a man like Mike Seager does it, then I guess it's a smart thing to do....

Last question here: when can I get those I-bolts?
 
ao.frog said:
Last question here: when can I get those I-bolts?
Click to expand...

Aircraft Spruce - of course!

(Oh, and I like my chains very tight - that's one reason I noticed no difference going to the Silver Bullet - it feels the same as tight chains)
 
Tail wheel

A tiny and probably irrelevant point. I used to fly with my German Shepherd in the baggage compartment (AZ to NC round trip a few dozen times), but I noticed that his slight movements sometimes increased the sensitivity of the elevator after I switched to the new fork, which is either a little heavier, or maybe weighted a little aft. I know that I was pushing the cg limits with my dog, but it worked for 4 years with no noticeable effect until the tail wheel switch. Doggie is now grounded, unfortunately, because I have a really rocky runway at Cascabel, and have actually broken off a certified t/w on my Aeronca due to striking a bigger than normal rock. The new t/w seems really bulletproof, and the rocks hit the rubber rather than the metal. YMMV.

Miller McPherson
RV-6, circa 900 hours.
Temporarily exiled in beautiful downtown Durham NC...
 
N941WR said:
Click on this picture:
.

The I-Bolt on the rudder bottom is pointing down. This also helps alleviate the problem of the chains wearing through the rudder horn, which I have seen on a number of RV's. Heck, it's easier to change the I-Bolt than the rudder.

This change to the chain angle helps give you a little better feel, IMHO.
Click to expand...

One other thing to note in this photo is the type of spring setup used.

This is a compression spring setup. Allows enough slack to prevent transmitting every bump and wiggle back to the pedals, but will still give firm authority to the tail wheel when necessary.

The springs below just stretch as you apply more pedal force, and you never get a really solid feel at the pedals ----- http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/tension_springs.php

Beware of the tension (stretch) springs:( When I changed to compression springs on my Stinson, it made a world of improvement in the ground handling:D
 
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N941WR said:
It is good you are getting time in those different planes. That will help you adjust to the RV in very short order.

I have the Bell fork with the Van's chains. The chains are installed per Van's recommendation with one exception. I used I-Bolts on the rudder and tail wheel so the chains are a little more horizontal. Click on this picture:
.

The I-Bolt on the rudder bottom is pointing down. This also helps alleviate the problem of the chains wearing through the rudder horn, which I have seen on a number of RV's. Heck, it's easier to change the I-Bolt than the rudder.

This change to the chain angle helps give you a little better feel, IMHO.

Other than that, either fork will work as the RV is such an easy tail dragger to fly.
Click to expand...
Here is the parts list for that setup:

(Four of each required)
Eye Bold Drilled AN42B-5
Cable Shackles AN115-21
Bolt AN3-6 (Drilled shank)

(Eight of each required)
Washer AN960-10
Castle nut AN310-3
Cotter pins as needed

BTW, this was not my idea. I saw it in one of the OLD RVaitors.
 
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What's...

Hi.

Thanks for all the inputs guys and Bill; great with the part list!
Only one question remains: what does "Q DESC" mean on the very top of the part list?
Is it a part??

I'm sorry for the possibly stupid question, but sometime I'm struggling with some english words....
 
ao.frog said:
Hi.

Thanks for all the inputs guys and Bill; great with the part list!
Only one question remains: what does "Q DESC" mean on the very top of the part list?
Is it a part??

I'm sorry for the possibly stupid question, but sometime I'm struggling with some english words....
Click to expand...

Q = Quantity
DESC = Description

I've changed the post above.
 
Aha...

Thanks! And I'm kind of stupid.... I schould've thought about that! (Q DESC)

Anyway; I'll send an order to ACS this afternoon.

Makes ALOT more sense to change a bolt instead of a rudder! :)

Thanks again!
 
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