McFly

Well Known Member
I seem to be going through a phase where have to replace parts received from Van?s that have gotten bad press in this forum (apparently for good reason). A couple of weeks ago it was the oil cooler and now it is the alternator.

Yesterday evening I went up for a short flight. I noticed my alternator idiot light (wired per George) was slightly flickering. I doubt that I would have noticed this during a midday flight in direct sunlight. The light did not just turn on like I expected, it flickered. A quick scan the volts revealed that they were going all over the place up to 14.8 back down to 14.1 in very short order. This was certainly not normal for my plane.

My plane is wired with the Bob Knuckles (sp) E-buss architecture, so I just flipped the master switch ?off? (I always fly with e-buss ?on?) and headed back to the airport. There were no surprises on the 10 minute flight back, the one LS ignition did its thing under battery power. I did forget that the flaps are not wired to the e-buss but no biggie since my airport has a huge runway. I easily made the second turn off.

I have never, ever shut down this alternator when the engine was running. It seems like the failure of these units was being blamed on load dump when the pilot would tune the alternator on/off as part of the run-up. I think poor quality of the rebuild is the problem, as some have suggested.

My plan is to get a replacement alternator at an auto parts store. Could someone please tell me what the part number I should be asking for? Do you normally exchange the old unit when you do this? Many thanks.
 
Lester 14684

You want Lester part #14684, which just about every parts shop can look up and/or cross reference. When my Van's 60 amp unit died at ~75 hrs (broken mount), I got a direct drop in replacement using Beck-Arnley part #186-0373, which cross-references to the Lester # above.

John
 
And that is exchange

Hugh, also you will need to exchange the old unit for the core charge; without a core I expect it would cost another $40-50 or so.....

JW
 
Similar problem

Hugh: A spare/or replacement alternator is probably a good idea. However, I had a similar problem last year with varying voltage readings. 12v-14.5v and back. My problem was a loose connection. If you haven't already done so, check all connectors first before replacing the alternator. Also, the 60amp breakers sometimes fail. take care.
 
Great story, one correction

McFly said:
I noticed my alternator idiot light (wired per George) was slightly flickering.

My plan is to get a replacement alternator at an auto parts store. Could someone please tell me what the part number I should be asking for? Do you normally exchange the old unit when you do this? Many thanks.
Correction, its wired per Toyota, but thanks for the credit. My theory is wire it like it was designed for, a car.

You may want to check all wiring connections, ALL CONNECTIONS. This can cause the symptom. Other wise its sounds like the regulator.

Rutus got the alternator number.

Keep in mind some aftermarket units are equivalent and have slightly different casting or mounts. So the mount may vary slightly. Just be prepared for it to look a little different.

You may want to just change the REGULATOR?

That has solved the problem for many and its easy to do. no soldering, just bolts in.


The part number'(s) (oem aftermarket) for the regulator:

OEM NIPPONDENSO: 126000-0410, 126000-0411 or 126000-0470
Transpo: IN219 (aftermarket)
WAI: 35-8210 (aftermarket distributor)


IN219 (transpo part number)
(Ref. Num. 35-8210)
Regulator
12 Volt, A-Circuit, D-IG-L Terminals, 14.5 Vset

For:
Nippondenso IR/IF Alternators
Used On:
(1986) Suzuki
Replaces:
Honda 31500-PEO-003
Nippondenso 126000-0410, 126000-0411, 126000-0470
Suzuki 32500-82610
Unit Nos:
GM 96051973, 96054116
Nippondenso 100211-141, -229, -302, -338, -364, -528
Suzuki 31400-82611
Lester Nos:
14684
, 14870 <<<<<<<<<
WAI Ref Nos:
1-1228-01ND
Dimensions:
63.5mm Mtg. Length
Notes:
L-terminal is not an output terminal.
Not interchangeable with IN221-1 where L-terminal is an output terminal.
Components:
TRI219 Repair Circuit
Features:
Transpo

Also consider:
TRI219 Repair Circuit​

IN219.jpg
282_PLUG.jpg


You will have to go to an auto electric distributor or on line. Auto stores don't carry parts like this usually. Make sure you get a new IN219 with a so called TRI219 repair circuit. Not sure but assume there was an update, improvement to the module. There could be some OLD dusty stock sitting around. You can buy just the TRI219, but it requires prying the regulator apart and soldering it in. No thanks. The price I think for a new regulator is in the $35 ball park I think.

Great story. Typical instability showing the fault. I can't prove it so I have backed down from saying it. The IC chip is proprietary and you can't quite know what its doing. But I think it has a standby or backup mode that keeps the output "some what" regulated when it fails, albeit not stable. Again Overvoltage but not super nova.
 
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George,

Could you please tell me where it is written that one shouldn't turn the alternator on/off with the engine running on an IR Denso? I'm talking about the alt field switch or whatever you call it. I'm not talking about the big B lead, just the ignition wire. Also, not looking to argue the point or any long explanations, just looking for where it is written or where you got your info. I've got the Van's 60 amp denso and I always turn the alt switch on after engine start with no problems. Called Van's today, they do the same with all their aircraft.

Thanks
 
Definitive answer? Sure lets try

tobinbasford said:
George,

Could you please tell me where it is written that one shouldn't turn the alternator on/off with the engine running on an IR Denso? Called Van's today, they do the same with all their aircraft.

Thanks
I made it up in my head. ha ha :rolleyes: I've been honest about this from day one. I've nothing in written in blood from Nippon Denso. However I've studied it. If you don't want to read this long analysis story, with no prejudice or harshness, keep doing what you want. However I feel strongly you can damage your regulator. There's a pattern/correlation of damaged ND's and the operational technique of "turning it on" after start, while the engine is running (and battery is under load). Can this damage a perfectly good regulator? I think so.

Great question. I can't prove religion, origins of the universe and meaning of life, but here is goes.

First Van says OK? Really? Who did you talk to? They have a lot of chiefs over there. I talked to Tom Green two years ago about the QC problem they had with the rebuilt ND units they sold. I pointed out they could get top quality NEW clone units (new, not rebuilt) for less than what they said they where paying for rebuilds. You typically get a blase', mildly disinterested affect from Van & company when suggestions are made. They admitted they sell alternators in the catalog for convenience, demand, not that they want to. Not saying they don't care, but its not their core business. Basically ho-hum from them. I'll say it, Van's aircraft is not the source of alternator expertise.

Van A/C switched alternator vendors last year. May be I had something to do with it? I like Tom and first met "Van the man" in the late 80's, they are not folks that change things on a whim. I explained to Tom why turning the alternator on after start may hurt it. I got some response, but they are so "laid back", its hard to tell. I explained they should include complete wiring instructions, including the LAMP. They have not done that. Oh well.


Now to answer your question with questions, why or how you hurt the alternator by turning it on after start?

>> What is a #14684 nippon denso made for, application? A car


>> How does the alternator work in that car application (specifically the IGN lead)? It comes on with IGN and stays on the whole time, even during start.


>> What functions does the regulator have built into it? It has a "soft start" function. With the IGN lead powered the alternator will not come on line or power the field until it "sees" RPM and time delay, logically detected by the micro-chip. It will than ramp voltage up slowly so there's no overshoot, beauty! This is a fact from the specs. :rolleyes:

I called Nippon Denso. Unfortunately corporate headquarters in america is marketing & distribution only, not engineering. If I spoke Japanese I'd talk to Denso engineering in Japan. I can tell you 100% for sure, it's designed to come on-line and off-line automatically. No manual intervention is needed. My theory, manual intervention CAN hurt it. Evidence shows that (below). Here's the inside of the IC chip. Really take 30 seconds and read the block diagram. (thumbnail - click twice for full size):



You see IGN delay circuit, Thermal limit detector, current limit detector, over voltage detection, digital controls....... This is a motorola chip, ND is similar, but you get the idea. It has 100's of transistor in one IC chip. There is more to the regulator, like the power transistor that controls the field, but this is the BRAIN.


>> How many transistors in external regulators (ie IR's and ER's are different)? About 2 or 3 transistors, one/two diodes, handful of resistors and a capacitor or two. There's NO digital & logic controls or protections w/ ER's. Plan & simple and that's the charm; does not care if when you turn it on. Here's the inside of a typical ER:
alt_06_1.gif



>> When you start your PC computer do you boot start 5 programs before it boots? When you shut it down do you pull the plug out the wall or do you "shut it down"? Same with the alternator

Old ER alternators did indeed get CUT out with the cars ignition switch when turned to start. They drew 5-7 amps from the get go. Turning them off gave more juice for start. There's NO doubt how a IR is designed and should be installed and operated in my opinion. MANUAL intervention = not needed and likely harmful.


>> WHY are we doing extra work? Why throw switches, making more work for your self ? I've not flown a Cessna or Piper in a long time, but have 1000's of hours as a pilot & instructor in them. I recall you turn on ALT/BAT together and start per the AFM. I never played switch monkey with GA planes. Why start now on the RV, especially with a ND that does not need you to do that?


>> Is there an advantage to what you are doing? NO, your ND draws about 50 mA during start and will stay that way until so many seconds after the alternator is spun. Also the IGN lead never draws more than 50 mA. All the power for the field comes from the B-lead and only after a time delay post start. ER alternators may have some advantage waiting, a little more power to start but not with the ND, its done by the IR's logic control .


>> My anecdotal evidence? The alternators that pilots had problems with, almost every one I talked to involved PIF - Pilot Induced Failure, meaning it was a common thread, they all did what you did, turned the alternator on after start. Keep doing it. Prove me wrong. :D

CASE IN POINT: Document case - Pilot flying decided to turn ALT off for grins to "see what would HAPPEN". He saw amp meter drop. Satisfied he turned it back on. The alternator went instantly OV. He was able to turn the alternator off again with the ALT switch (power to IGN). Which is nice but not what the IGN wire is for. IGN logic controls wake, sleep and fault reset modes of the regulator. The solid state switching inside is probably not robust enough to take on an alternator that is spinning FULL SPEED. The alternator logic may see a charge need and spike, damaging the IC chip. It expects to start from park, not turning full blast under load. Note: This is all conjecture on my part.


>> Niagara Air parts sold ND alternator kits, brand new OEM Nippondesno units, not rebuilds or clones. I have one. The instructions specifically say use a DPDT master switch so you don't turn the alternator on an off while the engine is running. A pull-able CB in the IGN circuit can be used if necessary to remove power with the MASTER on. Do they know something?


>> Can I prove you're hurting the alternator by turning it on after start? No, but I think so. Correlation with failures and what I affectionately call SMS - "switch monkey syndrome" is high.


KISS principle - why throw switches and add work load where none is needed. Turn both BAT/ALT on and forget it, than off together after shut down, simple. Start your engine, pay attention to RPM, oil pressure, ATIS and the ramp area for safety, your ND is AUTOMATIC. The B737 made me throw a gang of switches after start to bring generators on line. The B757 takes care of it automatically. Let the MAGIC work. :D

Do as you like, but if your alternator starts to act wacky, you may have contributed to it. I suggest you don't do what you're doing. THERE IS NO ADVANTAGE, AND THAT IS A FACT.

How can I put it more plainly, IR's have a microprocessor, an IC chip that takes care or the START and STOP. Over-riding it can damage it. Install and operate them like they where designed for (toyota/suzuki/sprint).
 
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ON-OFF-ON...

The alternators that pilots had problems with, almost every one I talked to involved PIF - Pilot Induced Failure, meaning it was a common thread, they all did what you did, turned the alternator on after start. Keep doing it. Prove me wrong.
I've been turning my alternator on after startup for about 400 hrs. I think it's still working! Only problem I've had with my alt was related to connections. But, this is the kicker I think, it's externally regulated!
We recently found out something interesting about alternators with internal regulators. After a friend had one burn up due to a wiring error, the benefactor took it to a shop for rebuild. While at the shop, he asked for a clarification as to which terminal received the alt switch wire. The rebuilder looked at him kinda funny, then preceeded to show him that once the alternator is excited, you can't shut it down by removing the field wire connection. We tried this on several alt with the same result, turning off the alt switch would not cause the alternator to go offline. The only alt we found that you could shut down with the alt switch was mine, the one with an external regulator. Granted, this is not large sampling, but it was interesting the several units we checked did the same thing.
So, what purpose does the alt switch serve with an internally regulated alternator? I think this all kinda agrees with what George has said, cut it on, leave it on. Taking it a step further, since they don't seem to shut down anyway, it seems the only switch needed with these type alts is a main pull type breaker to take them out of the system in case of an emergency. Comments from you electrical folks?
 
Alternator field switch

Good post George. I'm on the way out to the garage right now to re-wire my alternator switch. I think a pullable breaker will be quite sufficient, and besides, I need another switch position anyway.

Had no idea an alternator had so many solid state electrical components onboard. Running 2 inches from a crossover pipe, it's no small wonder we have reliability issues. Sooo happy to have a vacuum system!
 
George,
Ditto what Yukon said, I appreciate your input/knowledge. Just trying to do the right thing. The point with Van's was that they're RV fleet has not had alt problems even with turning the alt on after start. The exact individual was Bruce. As for me, I'm on my 2nd Van's alt. My first one (rebuilt Denso) lasted well over 300hrs with turning the alt switch on after engine start. It failed in flight one day but when I pulled the cowl I found on of the brackets completely broke and I think vibration did the unit in. I took it to a alt shop where they tested it and said the volage regulator was shot. My 2nd Alt from Van's is a NEW (not rebuilt) Denso and so far no problems turning the alt on after engine start (it has well over a 100hrs on it now). I'm not against your suggestion, but its hard to break a habit and I hate to do it if its unnecessary.
 
Good question

rvpilot said:
I've been turning my alternator on after startup for about 400 hrs. I think it's still working! Only problem I've had with my alt was related to connections. But, this is the kicker I think, it's externally regulated!
We recently found out something interesting about alternators with internal regulators. After a friend had one burn up due to a wiring error, the benefactor took it to a shop for rebuild. While at the shop, he asked for a clarification as to which terminal received the alt switch wire. The rebuilder looked at him kinda funny, then proceeded to show him that once the alternator is excited, you can't shut it down by removing the field wire connection. We tried this on several alt with the same result, turning off the alt switch would not cause the alternator to go offline. The only alt we found that you could shut down with the alt switch was mine, the one with an external regulator. Granted, this is not large sampling, but it was interesting the several units we checked did the same thing.
Yep some do and some don't. Partly variations in after market part manufacturers. The OEM and "good" aftermarket part makers should be consistent. That is the frustration with the auto electric industry. Some regulators cost $5 and other $35. The rebuilder some times go for the cheap stuff from main land China. However the better stuff does come from China, but Taiwan China, with all the accreditations and OEM compliance. Denso stops making parts after the unit is out of production for 10 years. No offense to "re-builders", they may not really know all that is going on inside the regulator. They do know how it tests.

So, what purpose does the alt switch serve with an internally regulated alternator? I think this all kinda agrees with what George has said, cut it on, leave it on.
Like I said its a logic control to tell the alternator regulator to sleep. The so called "One Wire" alternator is really a 3 or 4 wire deal with Nippondenso: B-lead, IGN, Lamp and some Remote voltage sense. The IGN lead can (does) also act as a remote fault sense. In that it detects voltage at both B-lead and IGN. The difference can indicate a fault like a grounded B-lead. It protects for that. Some will run with out the IGN wire. Remember all the POWER for the field and the regulator after it starts running is feeding thru the B-lead connected to the battery or buss. In fact if the IGN power is lost after start you will get a fault light. Its the "loss of IGN power fault light". :eek: Duuh! :D


Taking it a step further, since they don't seem to shut down anyway, it seems the only switch needed with these type alts is a main pull type breaker to take them out of the system in case of an emergency. Comments from you electrical folks?
Yes you could literally connect the IGN wire to the b-lead terminal and be done with it. A true ONE wire alternator. DON'T DO THAT. I am just saying we could do that because we have a master relay that disconnects the alternator output physically from battery. In a car its always connected. The down side of a car of course is if the rectifier diodes leak you can drain the battery.

It is true once the alternator is running it is getting all its power from the B-lead for the FIELD and to power the regulator. However some regulators have solid state switching that will try and turn the regulator off even if the alternator is spinning. That is not really what they where intended to do. Apparently some manufacturers therefore have taken the capability out. However all of them will NOT come alive until you make that initial power up of the IGN lead, than its self sustaning. So if you don't connect the IGN wire it will never be able to turn on. It seems its the TURNING ON AFTER ENGINE START WITH THE IGN WIRE, is what does the damage, not the shut down with the IGN.

Again in a car or plane why would you want to shut the alternator down normally? Never.

Look my point is DON'T WORRY :eek: BE :D

You can go the AeroE Bob way and run the Alt B-lead to the master relay (opposite of the battery) and put a big fat fuse in there, than not worry. You can do it as I suggest, run the darn alternator b-lead to a pull-able CB in the panel, than the buss and than battery, giving a little "absolute" disconnect, albeit manual. You can go buy a special "Plane Power" alternator with that OV module (which is cool but makes the alternator a special deal, not an over counter deal). You can go with a externally regulated alternator but the over counter ones are old 1970's technology, Yuck. Than there are ER alternators from "Plane Power". Yes they have external regulator versions, or B&C's expensive ER version of the ND. Again both ER ND's (modified) are now special not over counter deals, not AutoZone trade-ins

If you do go with an ER alternator don't use a 1970's Ford regulator or the B&C regulator that cost ++ $200. Get one of these.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Mfgr_Data/Regulators/Transpo/V1200_Transpo.pdf

Bottom line NipponDenso's do a great job of controlling themselves automatically, but if it was a bad OV you can always turn the MASTER OFF if it was bad? If you have a seperate e-buss and battery you can run that way in a pinch.

If you follow the rules: Don't cycle the IGN wire while engine is running, keep it cool with an air blast tube / pipe heat sheild and don't over load more than say 70%, continuous, especially at idle, you will have better luck; it can't hurt. If you have heated pitot, heated seats, radar, microwave, get a bigger alternator that will run cooler.
 
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Can you just take the ND over the counter one and strip off the regulator, then use a zeftronics or the like?
 
Good points, Yukon, tobinbasford, osxuser

Yukon said:
Good post George. I'm on the way out to the garage right now to re-wire my alternator switch. I think a pull able breaker will be quite sufficient, and besides, I need another switch position anyway.

Had no idea an alternator had so many solid state electrical components on-board. Running 2 inches from a crossover pipe, it's no small wonder we have reliability issues. Sooo happy to have a vacuum system!
For goodness Sakes, YES, put a heat shield in there. Good point, I forgot to mention. Radiant heat, like the sun's heat that can travel 91 million miles and still burn you on a summer day, hot pipes will toast your alternator. However on a cloudy overcast day, you cool down greatly. The sun is still there, but the radiant heat is cut down (so you just get the more damaging gama particles for you melanoma lovers). Same with the hot pipes, it's a little sun heating the alternator. There's plenty of heat, convective and radiant. Just a simple metal shield to protect the regulator back, so it's not "LOOKING" at the hot pipe. You don't need insulation just a heat shield. Also cooling air blast tube is nice thing, which adds cooler air and keeps the convective heat under the cowl away. Fact - The cooler electronics are the more reliable they are.

tobinbasford said:
George,
Ditto what Yukon said, I appreciate your input/knowledge. Just trying to do the right thing. The point with Van's was that they're RV fleet has not had alt problems even with turning the alt on after start. ..........My 2nd Alt from Van's is a NEW (not rebuilt) Denso and so far no problems turning the alt on after engine start (it has well over a 100hrs on it now). I'm not against your suggestion, but its hard to break a habit and I hate to do it if its unnecessary.
I hear you. "Well we do it and we don't have problems" Van's man says. Really, are they going with that? humm :rolleyes: Not too scientific. Ask them what the IGN lead does and how it works. I bet you a beer they answer, "Well its humm, ummm the FIELD WIRE". Nope, I'll have a Heineken please. :D Who did you talk to? Van's answer men, true men of genus (remember the bear commercials). I'm not going to say they are wrong......well yea I am..ha ha. :rolleyes:

Two things, Van is like the government sometimes, they say it's all good, things are getting better or their in denial. :rolleyes: There are lots of alternators that die that Van's A/C does know about or admit to. People just skulk down to the auto part store and buy another one with out notification to mother ship, Vans A/C. Second, I've heard the same thing from Van's gang, "we don't get hardly any back". However from the web we know there are failures. They say that because they are tired of replacing them and don't want to admit anything. In fact Van has admitted to me some folks are on their third, forth and more units. I know that is NOT a Nippondenso thing. It's either the QC of the aftermarket rebuild/clone or the way its installed and/or operated by the pilot. I have two old Acura's and the ND's are old and have a combined total miles of 1/4 million and +20 years, still going. That is normal reliability you expect. Nuff said..

I could be wrong, but I've seen too many failures, which where reported to have occurred right after throwing the ALT switch ON after start. On the other hand I've NEVER heard of an alternator failing right off the bat, after engine start, when it was left to start "organically" on its own. Correlation, coincidence?

Again its not designed to operate like that, there is no advantages switching after start (none), so why monkey with it? That is pretty hard to argue with, regardless if it damages it or not.

I can't prove it, but I just have seen 10 out 12 times dead alternators have that common thread, people turn them on after start and they go wacky. It could just be the QC thing of those units? The ones that are not switched seem not to fail? Go figure.


Just for correction, nit-pick, anal thing, your new unit is not a ND. ND stopped making that model years ago. In fact if it was an ND it would cost $400 in 2007 money and only be available at the car dealership. It's a clone ND, aka aftermarket. There is more than one manufacture that makes these complete clone units now. Kind of like Lyc clones, first it was parts than whole engines. However unlike Lyc clones, alternator clone quality varies; some clone alternators are poor. I tried to guide Van a year or two ago to the right distributor; hope they took my advice. Just want to make that clear. No big deal. Most clone alternator are now reproduced in China not made by ND in japan.

I hope you have good luck with the new one. I don't care if you switch it on after start. If you are at low idle, there is not excess load, (avionics & lights off, no weak battery drained from a hard starting engine), it may be fine. If you get to #3 or #4 alternator may be you try my way? :D

osxuser said:
Can you just take the ND over the counter one and strip off the regulator, then use a zeftronics or the like?
Yes by golly you can gut the regulator and turn it into a A type or B type regulated alternator for use with an external regulator. Here is a site that tells you (with pictures as well) how to do it.

http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/georger/Alternator.htm

He has it all. The easy conversion is the "A-type" regulation. Bad news is most external regulators are "B-type". The B-type field is controlled from a positive bias, not a ground bias as the A-type is. You can get an "A-type" external regulator, but the selection is limited.

As you guessed most internally regulated alternators are A-type so the conversion to B-type is more difficult. You have to modify the brush holder is the big deal. The link will make it obvious. I thought about it and thunk :rolleyes: , why am I going to gut a perfectly great internal regulator?

PS Get a Transpo V1200 external regulator if that is the way you want to go. Zeftronics are fine I guess but they are more for OEM planes. At $75 the Transpo is a deal. A Zef probably cost $150?

Another conversion of a Denso to external regulation, but this time on a larger frame ND that puts out 90 amps! He is a RV'er and it fits. It will weigh more, like 14 lbs, but he was replacing an aircraft alternator that weighed more and put out half the power. if you need the juice its a great mod:
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/alternator/index.htm
 
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Alternator problems?

I know this must have been explored before.... but I can't help but ask: "Who has ever had an automobile go overvoltage and take out the headlights and radio, etc?"

For me the answer is NEVER, not in my car or anyone's I ever heard of in 63 years, not in any airplane I have ever owned or flown... Why is that? We have all the guru's here with all this knowledge, what is really going on? Are we overlooking the obvious? The obvious possibly being that overvoltage is not what is going on but rather amateur installations of electrical components with incompatible systems, like external crowbars, power control centers, and such?
 
Alternator issues

Talked to plane Power today, 60A CB/fuse on firewall side is fine for B line, 5A CB in cockpit for field line. Pull CB in cockpit to take Alternator off line in the unlikely event that this is needed. All control is internal including OV protection.
For me at least this seems like a good way to go for peace of mind for an extra few hundred dollars in for me at least a pretty expensive project. It also would seem to simplify the electrical system.

As has been stated many times on this site the fun thing about our projects is the ability to make choices that we are individualy comfortable with.

Now onto the essential avionics buss :D
 
I know this must have been explored before.... but I can't help but ask: "Who has ever had an automobile go overvoltage and take out the headlights and radio, etc?"

For me the answer is NEVER, not in my car or anyone's I ever heard of in 63 years, not in any airplane I have ever owned or flown... Why is that? We have all the guru's here with all this knowledge, what is really going on? Are we overlooking the obvious? The obvious possibly being that overvoltage is not what is going on but rather amateur installations of electrical components with incompatible systems, like external crowbars, power control centers, and such?


I am the original poster who had the OV. I do not have any external do-dads on my alternator, just a light, a CB on the field line and a fuse on the B line. As for faulty installation, sure I guess it?s possible but there is not a lot to the installation, particularly when compared to some of the other electrical components. For the record, I never (not even once) cycled the alternator when the engine was running.

In the 10-15 seconds I was focusing on the volt read out, it never exceeded 14.8v. Would this blow out my radio if I let it roll? I doubt it but I really dunno but I?ll sell you an alternator if you want to find out :D In any case it was not a China syndrome event but enough to make the light flicker.

As I stated before I believe the cause was a poor rebuild, pure speculation on my part. Heat certainly could have contributed. I have a blast tube but no heat shield. Thanks for the tip. Also thanks to the posters who supplied the part numbers.

RIP Vans 60 amp alternator, I barley knew you.
 
14.8 should be OK. Depending on the radio, up to 33 might be OK. Most Garmin are rated for 11-33v as are the Apollo series.
 
Well its Politics

Chickenlips said:
I know this must have been explored before.... but I can't help but ask: "Who has ever had an automobile go over-voltage and take out the headlights and radio, etc?"

For me the answer is NEVER, not in my car or anyone's I ever heard of in 63 years, not in any airplane I have ever owned or flown... Why is that? We have all the guru's here with all this knowledge, what is really going on? Are we overlooking the obvious? The obvious possibly being that over voltage is not what is going on but rather amateur installations of electrical components with incompatible systems, like external crowbars, power control centers, and such?
My point exactly. There is some reasons for the paranoia. A small shred of truth gets over blown and facts are ignored to tell a good story. Some people have motives as well. So whats going on? Its a combo prejudice, preference, opinion, comfort from experience, mixed with mis-information, rhetoric and propaganda. You have to cut thru the bull.

Example: There was a campaign in the experimental plane circles by a vendor to malign and disparage internally regulated alternators. Why? Well people sell modified ND alternators, taking the internal regulator out to use an ER external regulator. Of course the original internal regulator has to be vilified a little to justify selling a $130 retail alternator (with its perfectly good internal regulator) for $450, w/ its matching $230 external regulator. Ouch :eek: The terrorists will win if you use a stock ND internal regulated alternator. (tongue in cheek - joke)

There are fine products out there but not one of them is perfect; they also fail and do weird things. They just hide it. However like politics you bash the opponent and minimize your mistakes. Let's say some times the truth gets over run by other motives. Not saying they are wrong, just may be the "problem" of OV is so overblown, and it took on an urban legend life of its own.

Also, speeking of urban legends, there where also some stories floating around, and that is what got my attention. They turned out to be a mystery, void of facts or details, but they where scary stories, like a guy had $10,000 of damage from a ND alternator! So I said WHAT? :eek: Well I became a myth buster. No one personally knows who this person is, what alternator, plane, damaged and why. It turned out to be an exaggerated story having nothing to do with a ND alternator.

I tracked a few stories down, which always seemed to start with, a friend told me about their friends brothers friends cousin. Eventually it got down to it was on a Cessna and it was not a ND alternator. That of course is impossible. Cessna's don't have ND's on them.** So all bad things in the history of alternators became ND's.

** Plane Power now has STC'ed ND units for Cessna's and Pipers, which have recently been approved and released.

The other part of it, one of the biggest vendors of stock ND alternators for experimental planes is Van's. I personally think they went thru a bad vendor / supplier. Also part of the equation is today Van's still does not provide good installation info. Like I posted above, Van seems disinterested and admits they sell things like alternators as a convenience, not to make money. I don't believe the money part, but they are not getting rich. Again its a side line not their core business.

Truth be told most over-voltages that happen in aircraft happen with certified airplanes. They are terriable. Old 1950's, 1960's auto electrical stuff right out of Fords, Chevys and Chryslers. The design of those old alternators and regulators (carbon pile, mechanical relay types not solid state) where poor. Reliability was a problem and so was OV. That is what has been in most GA planes for the last 50 years and where OV earned its wings and reputation. Most of the old planes still flying have had their old regulators upgraded with solid state ones and better alternators. That is why I laugh at the idea a modern ND alternator is dangerous. Its 1000 times better than what in most spam cans. What is dangerous is some the old stuff still flying out there. By the way its "FAA" certifeid. So certified does not mean perfection.

Bottom line Over Voltage can happen and it can be spectacular, but its not as common with modern alternators. Nippon Denso can have an OV, but they tend to be mild. I don't want to say ND's are perfect, but Plane Power and B&C are not either. They are all subject to failure. If you install and use the alternator properly and its sized right, they all will provide good service.

Plane Power units are the best value and quality IMHO. They are again just ND alternators, but they are hand built, have the proper cooling fan rotation that no one has, better brushes and the "back-up" OV module, which should shut up the ANTI Internal Regulator gang.
 
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cut through the bull....!

"Its a combo of prejudice, preference, opinion, comfort from experience, mixed with mis-information, rhetoric and propaganda. You have to cut thru the bull."

You hit the nail on the head! You must always read the threads for what they are: "a platform to put in writing personal opinions that may have no basis whatsoever in fact"

That someone might propose an opinion with personal gain in mind should not escape you either.

What would you do if you manufacture and sell an "overvoltage" protection device that requires an alternaor with an external regulator? First you might disseminate, at every opportunity, disinformation in an attempt to "scare" the masses away from internally regulated alternators. Where do those opportunities arise? Right here in the threads.

What about "overvoltage"? Is 14.8 vdc overvoltage? No. Does everyone calibrate their voltmeter and check their data before they title a post "Vans 60 amp Alt: Another Overvoltage...." No.
 
What would you do if you manufacture and sell an "overvoltage" protection device that requires an alternaor with an external regulator? First you might disseminate, at every opportunity, disinformation in an attempt to "scare" the masses away from internally regulated alternators. Where do those opportunities arise? Right here in the threads.

What about "overvoltage"? Is 14.8 vdc overvoltage? No. Does everyone calibrate their voltmeter and check their data before they title a post "Vans 60 amp Alt: Another Overvoltage...." No.


If you think I am selling anything, you have me mistaken for someone else. I just replaced my alternator last night with the same unit except it was purchased from NAPA. This was a PIREP of some equipment failure pure and simple. It never occurred to me that my posts could be fuel for conspiracy theories.

Fact 1: My alternator fault light flickered on. That means something was not right.
Fact 2: The fault light illumination was validated by noting the voltage bouncing between 14.1 to 14.8 in very short order, this was vastly different than how my plane usually behaves in two ways. One: the voltage has never fluctuated by more than .3 volts. Two: I have never seen the voltage go over 14.4.
Fact 3: I have two sources of volt indication in my plane, a Dynon D-10A and a Lowrance 1000. They always agree.

Opinion: 14.8 volts is an overvoltage condition given fact #1 and #2. If you need to see 21.6 giga volts and some melted goo before you label it as overvoltage, well that?s your opinion.

?The truth is out there?
 
Response

Hugh, the comments were on "threads" in general, not you personally. The alternator issue isn't any different than any of a myriad of other thread strings of ill researched or poorly represented information that results in a gang of "experts" coming out of the woodwork. Some of which may have motives that are not apparent. Sorry.
 
My apologies as well, I thought the crosshairs were aimed directly at me. Blue skies.
 
A little confused

OK, I just went thru all the posts and have run across some problems that haven't been addressed. The voltage on my (stock ND from Van's) starts out at a solid 14.1 volts and after some operating time, will drop down to around 13.4., always showing positve amps into the battery.

Thinking the alternator was going bad, I took it in to a shop and had it bench checked. All good was the prognosis, except the brushes were completly worn. (200 hrs) New brushes, reinstall and still the same problem. Battery stays charged, loads are low, but voltage drops after about 15-20 minute operating time.

Could this be heat related? I have a cooling tube, but no scoop to "gather" intake air. Also, where should the cooling tube be directed?

One more interesting point.....when bench checking the alternator, I mentioned it being 60 amp. The tech guy laughed and asked why I would say that when it was only a 45 amp alternator :confused: He seemed to be pretty sure and knew his way around the armature.

Ant ideas?
 
Those voltages sound fine to me.

OK, I just went thru all the posts and have run across some problems that haven't been addressed. The voltage on my (stock ND from Van's) starts out at a solid 14.1 volts and after some operating time, will drop down to around 13.4., always showing positve amps into the battery.

Thinking the alternator was going bad, I took it in to a shop and had it bench checked. All good was the prognosis, except the brushes were completly worn. (200 hrs) New brushes, reinstall and still the same problem. Battery stays charged, loads are low, but voltage drops after about 15-20 minute operating time.

Could this be heat related? I have a cooling tube, but no scoop to "gather" intake air. Also, where should the cooling tube be directed?

One more interesting point.....when bench checking the alternator, I mentioned it being 60 amp. The tech guy laughed and asked why I would say that when it was only a 45 amp alternator :confused: He seemed to be pretty sure and knew his way around the armature.

Ant ideas?

I wouldn't worry about it at all.
But, I don't claim to be an alternator expert.

Mark
 
200 is short but not unheard of, High RPM and operational reasons

OK, I just went thru all the posts and have run across some problems that haven't been addressed. The voltage on my (stock ND from Van's) starts out at a solid 14.1 volts and after some operating time, will drop down to around 13.4., always showing positve amps into the battery.

Thinking the alternator was going bad, I took it in to a shop and had it bench checked. All good was the prognosis, except the brushes were completely worn. (200 hrs) New brushes, reinstall and still the same problem. Battery stays charged, loads are low, but voltage drops after about 15-20 minute operating time.

Could this be heat related? I have a cooling tube, but no scoop to "gather" intake air. Also, where should the cooling tube be directed?

One more interesting point.....when bench checking the alternator, I mentioned it being 60 amp. The tech guy laughed and asked why I would say that when it was only a 45 amp alternator :confused: He seemed to be pretty sure and knew his way around the armature.

Ant ideas?
Sounds like you have a good tech because he knows you alternator is basically a 45 amp sized (the physical case size). However later ones where rated at 55 amps. Van and others put the extra 5 amps on there because they do put out an extra 5 amps if you spin them faster than the base line 6,000 rpm (alternator speed). All alternators are rated at a nominal RPM and do continue to produce more power potential by spinning faster up to a point. With ND's that is about 5 amps, and yes we do spin the alternator way faster than 5,000 rpm, usually in the +8,000 rpm range. Depending on pulley sizes some alternators are turning near 9,500 rpm at Lycs red-line of 2,700 rpm. (Great debate rages is this is good).

It is possible you alternator brush wear is the cause of:

Extreme high RPM (due to a small alternator pulley*)
Condition (dry dusty or continuous high altitude flight, ie low humidity)
The original aftermarket brushes where sub par material
Cooling might make some difference (install heat shield so exhaust pipe is not "looking" at alternator & blast cooling air)​

*Stock ND alternator pulleys tend to be from 2.4" to about 2.8". The Lyc flywheel pulley is 9.75. Divide 9.75" by the alternator pulley you get the ratio of 4 to 3.5. So you can see a difference. If you have a fixed prop and like to fly around at 2,700 rpm (c/s prop drivers tend to fly at lower average rpms), your alternator may be spinning near 10,000 rpm. There is no published RPM limit for the ND, but recall seeing 10,000 rpm, and 8,000 rpm is the nominal or operational speed that these small units usually sees in their official installations (small cars, forklifts, tractors).

Bottom line it makes sense you will wear the brushes faster with higher RPM. You can get a larger pulley with in limits of cowl clearance. Many folks have a tension arm and belt that is longer than needed, which reduces pulley cowl clearance. I run a 3:1 ratio because my pulley is the older 7.5" diameter.

For reference Plane Power I think calls for maintence check of brushes at about 700 hours. I have heard of many stock ND's getting 900 hours. It is not a freebie. All RV'ers should check their alternator brushes and replace them proactively. Plane Power, B&C, Stock ND or any other brand is not immune to brush wear. The high altitude high RPM operation is very sever.

Cheers George


PS: You should never have high Amps than Low volts,. Buss voltage should be nailed at ONE voltage with out variation of more than +/- 0.10 volts (typical range is 14.1v-14.5v)
 
Thanks,

George,

Thanks for the info. I'll have to measure the pulleys, but I doubt that is the issue. The tech guy seemed to think that the brushes were never replaced when the alternator was rebuilt. (Yes, the alternator I got from Van's is a rebuilt one)

I'm thinking heat. At least that will be the easiest and quickest solution to try. I know of some identical engine/alternator combinations where this is not an issue and the only variable left would be heat, with the baffling integrity being the only difference. As a side note, it seems that when climbing to higher altitudes (cooler air), the voltage seems to come back some. Again, leading to a heat issue.

I'm getting about a 50% feedback on voltage, whether it shoud be a solid 14+ or allowed to drop after time. I'm with you, it should be solid.

One more question. Where should I direct the cooling tube? The tech guy says the fans are in the front of the unit, and the cool air should go thru the case, but the regulator (where the cooling is needed) is in the rear.
 
Cooling Tube Location

Hwood,

I installed a 1" SCAT tube flange on the right inlet ramp. Directed the tube to the back of the alternator and made a 180 with it, aiming it square onto the regulator area. Held in place with an adel clamp. The tube outlet is about 1" away from the "target".

350 hours on a new Vans 60 amp unit so far. Lots of heat here in the deep south.
 
The Odyssey batteries...

Sounds fine to me. Most alternators will start out a tick higher then settle back in. I usually will see most units(here at my day job) start out at about 14.2 and will settle in at about 13.4 after everything stabilizes. Usually about 5 - 10 minutes but sometimes longer. Depends on battery charge, time between starts, battery health, etc...

I won't debate the engineering I just know that's what I see on a daily basis.

...we use on the RVs may have a slightly different composition to the ones you see every day....

From the Odyssey Tech manual...

Charge voltage
Float voltage: 13.5V to 13.8V at 25°C (77°F); no current limit
Cyclic voltage: 14.4V to 15.0V at 25°C (77°F); no current limit


It seems they run just a bit higher in voltage than your numbers - our plane "steady state" voltages should be equivalent to the "Float voltage" above.

The manual is here...

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/files/techbook.pdf
 
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Hwood,

When my original Van's (ND) alternator started with some wondering voltages above 15.0, I repalced it with a new one from the autoparts store, and though I am not a big believer in blast tubes, it didn't cost me anything but 20 minutes of time to aim one at the voltage regulator on the back. I've put twice as many hours on the new unit (from NAPA), and have had no problems.

Of course, this is a sample size of "1", and purely anecdotal....;)

Paul
 
David, Look on the back of the case and you will see a ND.

No ND on this one but it sure looks like the ND I had on the Subaru engine which ran fine for 4 years mounted in a very warm area on the aft end of the engine. This one has Plane Power labels front and rear. I did not remove the cover to check for more info.

One would think this unit up front on a Lycoming with 2 fans would not suffer heat issues.
 
Problem solved

First, let me thank everyone for all the inputs. It seems there is no lack of knowledge or of the willingness to pass it along....thanks.

Reinstalled the blast tube with some mods. Installed an elbow thru the baffle shelf to act as a 'scoop' and connected Van's black tubing. Ran the tubing to the rear of the alternator and dispensed the cooling air in the area of the rear alternator fan/regulator. On the test hop, initially had the same symptoms with the voltage dropping as I waitied for takeoff, but when I powered up for launch, the voltage came right back and stayed a solid 14.1 for the duration.

Ahhhhh.....:D
 
Point the air right at the VR and get it under the cover

George, One more question. Where should I direct the cooling tube? The tech guy says the fans are in the front of the unit, and the cool air should go thru the case, but the regulator (where the cooling is needed) is in the rear.
The ND has two internal fans one front and back. I would shove the blast air right where the voltage regulator (VR) fins are and get some air flowing around & under the cover.


You will want to cool the VR and the rectifier diodes, both good things to do. You are not going to cool the stator or rotor with a tiny blast tube, so try and cool the semi conductors the diodes in the rectifier and transistors in the VR. A heat sheild between the #1 exhaust pipe and alternator is goodness. Some ND's actually have little stand offs and heat sheilds for automotive applicatoins where say a turbo is near by, but in most cars the alternator is sitting high and way from exhaust.

In factory planes with cowls the size of a back yard storage shed hang the generator or alternator way out and low and the pipes go out and away. In the RV we're suck w/ the alternator up tight and the pipe right next to it. In general the cowl is tighter and hotter. We may be going fast but we have a tighter cowl with less air leaks in and out and less air in general.
 
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Well yes but there is MORE!!

...we use on the RVs may have a slightly different composition to the ones you see every day....

From the Odyssey Tech manual...

Charge voltage
Float voltage: 13.5V to 13.8V at 25°C (77°F); no current limit
Cyclic voltage: 14.4V to 15.0V at 25°C (77°F); no current limit


It seems they run just a bit higher in voltage than your numbers - our plane "steady state" voltages should be equivalent to the "Float voltage" above.

The manual is here...

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/files/techbook.pdf
Actually that is true but min charge is down to 14.2 volts. That is min charge to bring to 100% charge. Nominal is about 14.5 volts. 15 volts is MAX limit and WAY TOO MUCH to charge. It will cook it.

14.1 volts is fine. Actually it is ideal since it will not cook the battery.

That is the problem or lament some have. We need the 14.2 - 14.7 volts to get the battery charged, but once charged it needs to kick back to float.

Well its not a big deal. This over charge voltage is expected on all motorized vehicles. Also we are talking about a few hours or so not continuous 24/7 hours of over charging. Last the battery tends to self limit and reduce its own charge as it gets to capacity as internal resistance increases. With that said many have thought of a DUAL VOLTAGE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.

Many of thought of a simple way to charge at say 14.5 volts than cut back to a float charge of 13.9 volts or there about. Too much work. On boats with large battery banks and all their electical needs (in the middle of the ocean with bulge pumps) do have fancy microprocessor charging systems. In fact Boats have very fancy voltage regulators and charging architecture. They don't want to have charge their batteries, especially because they might have dozens and dozens of them.

14.1 volts (if you are actually measuring volts at the battery and NOT the bus) is fine. If the voltage to is measured at the aircraft bus than the battery voltage will be about 1/10th higher. So even at 14.1 volts the battery may not get quite to 100%, say 99% charge. No big deal. I guess you could charge it on the ground from time to time with a plug in battery charger.

14.1-14.2 volts IS IDEAL for charging and minimizing over charging.

The only real down side is it will take longer to charge a weak battery at 14.1 volts than at 14.7 volts. We are talking 10-20 minutes.