STINGRAY

Active Member
I'm ready to dimple the skins for the hor stab. Got out my newly purchased edge forming tool from Avery. Skins are too thick. Ordered one of the nifty vise grip types from Cleveland -should do the job. Now as I ponder the situation, I'm wondering if I need to do this (edge forming aft edge of HStab) before dimpling skins. Can it be done after dimpling? Ive never tried it.

Like all newbies, need a little hand holding.
 
I'd do the edge forming first. I would also practice on some scrap using the edge forming tool as I had a hard time making it do what I wanted it to do. The trick seems to be not to tighten the vice grip grips much at all and put a little down pressure while pulling the tool across to metal. Make several passes if necessary and add a little tension as needed. That particular tool was one of the more aggravating tools in the box. Maybe someone else will chime in that has more experience than me. Good luck
 
You'll really get to like that Cleaveland edge rolling tool! I don't see an advantage to edge rolling the HS skins (except maybe the leading edges that get rolled and pop riveted). Normally, you'd edge roll where one skin lays down over another. Practice with this tool on various thicknesses, and especialy if you're going to use it on an inside corner. As the other poster mentioned, there is an angle that must be maintained, also, I might add that it seemed like you also want to be putting pressure against the edge of the skin...like you are making sure the tool doesnt roll off of the edge. You'll always want to use the edge forming tool before dimpling. The other hint is, less is normally better than more when it comes to edge forming, by that I mean that you can "overbend" and it won't lay down nicely.

I used my neighbor's Cleaveland edge forming tool whenever I needed one (airpark benefit). He had installed a jam nut on the adjustment bolt, I don't know if that's a stock setup or not, but I do recommend doing it. I edge rolled some of the wing skins, the forward top skin (on the sides), and the wing root fairings where they lay down onto the wing. I was really happy with how they turned out. Last tip is, think about how the skin is fitting...some skin edges don't lay down onto another skin on all surfaces, and it looks good if you leave those edges unrolled. Mark the areas with a sharpie so you end the edgeroll in those areas. Good luck!
 
Avery Roller

I had better luck with the edge rolling tool sold by Avery (and maybe others) - two wheels fastened to a plastic disc. Here's a link:
http://www.averytools.com/p-45-edge-rolling-tool.aspx

The wheels on my vise-grip tool tended to slide instead of roll. Be careful with edge rolling - it is easy to overdo, stretching the skin in places, ending up with a wavy edge.

...Joe
 
There is no need to edge roll the skins on the HS. Edge rolling is for skins that form a lap joint (one skin lays on top of another, usually at a bulkhead) so that the top skin doesn't curl up at the edge.
 
I have used both the "round" edge forming tool (#1042 from Avery) and the Vice-Grip type (#EF-60 from Cleveland). I had the best results with the V-G type.

The round style tool provides lots of surface edge-guide aid, but for me required a consistent wrist rotation force (to actually form the bend) that I was not able to accomplish with a consistent results.

The V-G tool solved the above problem, but I quickly learned that I could not hold the aluminum sheet with one hand and zip down the edge using the other hand to pull and guide the tool. The answer here was to hold the V-G tool in my right hand and to use the thumb and index finger of the left hand to help slowly rotate (and help push) the forming rollers. This method gave excellent, consistant results.

The sequence of events should be: match drill parts, deburr, edge form, and then dimple. If you dimple first, you will find that the edge forming tool rollers will want to bump into the dimpled skins, flattening them out somewhat.
 
I too had rotten luck with the edge forming tool you put the bend on by holding the angle (the round kind). Remember that keeping the piece you're working on steady is an important piece of the puzzlez. I clamped/taped the pieces I was edge rolling to a table so the egde was exposed enough I could work on it and focus on using the tool instead of holding the material. The Cleaveland tool will produce an extremely uniform bend if it is adjusted properly...I was never able to make that uniform bend with the other type.
 
Edge Forming tool

I am on my 3rd RV project and I use the Cleaveland edge tool (properly called a Vosburgh Tool) on all sheets if they overlap or not. I have had no luck with the 2 roller on a disc type tool. The Vosburgh is consistent and, except for slipping off the sheet occasionally, is easy to use especially if you use your fingers to help rotate one of the dies as you move the tool as already mentioned. I feel the sheets when overlaid and riveted fit better, reduce "puckering" of the seams (air gap in the sheets between rivets) and the edges look more finished. My sequence is locate/drill sheet to size, debur holes, file and/or Scotchbrite all edges, Use the Vosburgh tool, dimple, then lastly rivet. I write this sequence on the sheets before starting with a felt tip and check off each task as its accomplished wiping off the list with solvent after assembly. The checklist allows me to leave and return without forgetting a step.

Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD 300 hrs.
RV8 Wings completed
Northfield, MN
 
sheet metal break

Has anyone looked at using a sheet metal break to "form" the edges? Seems like it would give a very nice edge if done carefully.

Dreis-Krump-Brake.jpg


I currently use the Avery round plastic tool, which works pretty well, but I recommend either being very careful with it or wearing gloves.