dmat

dmat

Well Known Member
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I am looking to update the old bent stinger with non-swivel tailwheel to a straight stinger with full swivel. Based on some research, I can cut the bend off and mount the full swivel mount on it. Is that accurate? Has anyone done this before? Any lessons learned?

Thanks,
D
 
I’ve done it about a year ago on my RV6. I cut the bend off with a cutoff wheel - not too difficult. Then you need to mill down or file down the end where the full swivel assemble attaches. Next you will drill two holes for two #10 bolts to hold the swivel assembly on. If you have the ability to ream and install taper pins here, it would be a plus. There is an instruction sheet on the FlyBoy websites that explains all this, and they have all the parts you’ll need to do it.
 
and as a side note question... are you talking freely swiveling wheel, not steerable and lockable?
why would you want this? pros and cons?
 
I assume he is referring to the full swivel unit that most of us have, that is lockable, and steerable. Not sure why one would want to go a different direction than that, but it can be done.
 
yeah, I currently have a non swivel unit and want to upgrade to full swivel/locking.

D
 
+1. I went the flyboys route and I'm quite satisfied. I upgraded the tailwheel to their lightweight tailwheel. I used a local machine shop to cut, turn, and drill my holes. I wasn't confident that I could get everything straight by myself.
 
Full swivel mod

On my first 4, I modified the stinger to the full swivel. Vans has instructions including a drawing showing the dimensions. Give them a call and they can send it to you. A machine shop can turn down the end of the stinger. Worked great.
 
dmat said:
Based on some research, I can cut the bend off and mount the full swivel mount on it. Is that accurate? Has anyone done this before? Any lessons learned?
Click to expand...

This approach will work (I've done it) but getting the tapered fit into the tailwheel assembly is not easy. As others have said, it requires some machining to get it right (mine wasn't great and eventually broke). I think it's easier to get a new spring/stinger. The bugger with that is match drilling the holes in the fuselage weldment.
 
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