H

hammerdown

Member
I have posted two of these three questions before and got no answers. Either dumb questions or no one knows the answers. I am a first time builder although I helped my son build a 10.

#1 - When doing your first engine start did anyone find a lifter that didn't pump up when pushed on with a hammer handle a per Rotax instructions? I was told by Rotax service people at Oshkosh that about 1 in 100 engines has this problem and if not fixed it will do engine damage.

#2 - When installing a thermostatic oil temperature controller how do you purge the air between the thermostat and the oil cooler?

#3 - If you buy a non Vans Rotax it may come with a airbox to which the carb vent tubes could be attached. This to me would equalize the air pressure between the intake and float bowl to allow for automatic mixture control preventing a rich condition at high altitude. In the 12 should we be connecting the vent tubes to back of the air cleaners to balance the pressure also? I may be way off on this one - your thoughts.
 
Hey Paul - -

Since I installed the first oil therm, I'll tell you my thinking. I used the Thermostasis 205 degree. I installed it so the hose to the pump comes from the 'top' of the unit. I mounted it vertically. If the oil is moderate temp, it will bleed itself as you turn it over. Question one is involved here also. I just changed oil, and I also drain the cooler and lines. After reassembly, I fill the tank to the very top. Leave out at least one set of spark plugs, and turn it over with the starter until the pressure is up to 60# or so ( for me anyway ). I feel this presents very little stress on any part of the engine. The starter really turns over fast with no load. In about 30 seconds the pressure comes up. I let it set for maybe 2 - 3 minutes, then turn it over again for maybe 15 seconds. The pressure comes right up, and I feel it pumps up the lifters very well. Not what the new purge method calls for, but has worked well for me for years.

John Bender
 
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