gbrasch

gbrasch

Well Known Member
Was wondering to those who have gone before, did you find it necessary to use the UHMV tape on these angles (C-712's, upper and lower) to prevent scratching, per the plans, or is it a waste of time and effort.
Thanks in advance.
 
I tried it

I tried it without much success. The problem (my problem anyway) was that I riveted the angles in place without enough clearance. The latch worked but was stiff.

I added the tape to prevent scratching and the tape exacerbated the clearance issue (duh). The tape began to deteriorate after some use.

I ended up cleaning the tape residue off the angels, took a .001" or two off of the latch pieces, polished the latches up, and then put some decorative swirl marks (Like the Spirit of St Louis cowl) to detract from the scratches that will eventually show up.

If clearance is not an issue for you, it may be worth a shot. Good luck.
 
Thanks...it also would seem that, like you say, the tape will wear, then it would be hard to pull out, and nearly impossible to replace. I am leaning toward not using it at all, especially since the castle nuts could ease some of the tension.
 
Glenn I used I believe .016" metal between the angles when I match drilled. I recently installed tape on both angles when I riveted the assembly. The tape allows the handle to slide between the angles smoothly. I'm not near flying, but have used the handle about 50 times so far.
 
I tried the tape bit on the angle surfaces. It didn't work out. I installed with sufficient clearance and all was great for a short while. It didn't take long for the tape to wear a little, then it bound up the assembly. It had to come out and is fine without it.
 
just worked on it today, including uhmw tape, pics will follow...

i think it was well worth the hassle (anti chafe tape special order item from spruce and international shipping $$), but the result is excellent.

it was a multi step process... first the cutouts according to the template. then prepping the angles and handles. then priming everything. then painted the handles in a "caution" yellow with rattle can paint, for better look and feel added another layer of glossy clear coat on the handles, rattle can as well.
of course spread over several building session to allow it to dry.
put a layer of uhmw tape on each of the 2 angle inside faces.
then temporary assembly, had to enlargen the sideskin cutouts to allow for the added thickness from the paint process / keep the skin from scratching.
only then drilled the angles to the skin.

result is super smooth in operation and looking great. will paint the angles when installed. the "caution" yellow gives a nice contrast to the darkish blue theme we have otherwise going.

regards, bernie
 
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Thanks so far.....and did anyone have to trim a bit off the trailing (aft) end of the 607 canopy latch to get it to clear the cut in the side of the fuse? Mine seems a little long, yet my cut out matches the template perfectly. Thanks again.
 
as promised, here are some pictures:

http://www.flyvans.com/log/2007_12_12_canopy_latch.html (with comments)

P1030470.JPG


P1030473.JPG


P1030502.JPG


regards, bernie
 
Another option that works

Glenn,

I originally fabricated and installed the angles and latches and mounted the tape to the angles and found it bound up very quickly after only cycling the latch a few times. I then removed the tape and cycled the latch a few times and found that the latch handle would gall up against the angles and leave nasty "scratches" on the latch handle surface.

I decided to do something a little different that seems to work well. I cut UHMW tape disks (about 5/8" in diameter with 3/16" center holes in them and attached them around the pivot holes on both the latch and lock parts (both sides). Basically these act as very thin spacer washers that keep the parts off the angle surface. Though I haven't operated the latch hundreds of times, nor has it been years in the elements, so far it has held up great. If I have any problems with the tape I just have to remove the latch/lock bolts and remove the latch/lock parts and I have easy access to replacing the tape. Simple, easy and it works.

I also added a part aft of the latch pivot bolt to seal the 1/8" gap between the angles to help keep the elements out. I don't have any photos of this but if you are interested I can post a few.

Stop by my shop sometime when your are on the far NE side of town.
 
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