A

atalla

Well Known Member
Hello all

I just want to confirm that I'm dimpling for the screw but machine countersinking for the nut plate 426 rivets? the material thickness is .030

do i dimple everything and and install the nut plates on the dimple? seams weirds...

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Any thoughts or help would be great
Thanks
Andrew
 
You can dimple for the rivet and dimple the nutplate which is the way I think most have done it, including myself. When dimpling for nutplates and the nutplate themselves you'll need to grind a small taper on one side of a 3/32 female dimple die.

Dimple the screw hole first otherwise you'll end up smashing the outside dimples when the center hole is dimpled.
 
az_gila said:
Since the nutplate rivets are only there to prevent rotation of the nutplate...

You could simply countersink for the rivets, but use the small head NAS1097 rivets.

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/viewitems/solid-rivets/nas1097-100-solid-rivet

I find them much easier to use and set with a hand squeezer than the full size head rivets for nutplates.
Click to expand...

I was thinking this but the rivets called for are #40 3/32 can I oversize the holes to a #30 for the Nas1097 in the nut plate and panel?
 
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I did this by dimpling nutplates and the plate and if I could do it again I would just use the NAS rivets and countersink method. So many dimples on this plate caused it warp a little bit. No big deal as it gets screwed straight anyways but I would go the NAS way. Also, when you get to the point of working on the Z brackets countersink the aft most two rivets instead of dimpling as most people have clearance issues here with the motor.
 
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