Pounder

Pounder

Well Known Member
Sponsor
All,

So as to not reinvent- as I retro fit an elevator trim servo- what is a good, light weight connector that will accommodate the pigtail comming off the servo? I think the (5) leads are about #22 gauge.

Bryan
 
Soldered Pigtails and then a D-sub

I solder spliced the pig tails to a short multi-strand cable from the servo maker. I then terminated this at a D-sub connector that I secured to the rear deck with zip ties. The elevator can be easily disconnected.

Jim Sharkey
RV-6 - Phase 1 <10 hrs to go!
 
Deans Connectors

Use a 3 pin Deans for the colored wires and a 2 pin for the two white wires. This will allow you to flip the connector for proper direction of the servo.

Most good hobby shops will have 2 and 3 pin Deans, but not the 5 pin.
 
Trim servo

Here are pics of the way I ran the wires for the electric trim servo. I used a pre-wired molex type 5 pin connector and soldered the connections. Then I used heat shrink over each individual wire followed by one big heat shrink over the entire area. When the connections were finished I used a braided expandable sleeving to cover the entire wire bundle.

hwipow.jpg

1qnaeq.jpg
 
Pounder said:
All,

So as to not reinvent- as I retro fit an elevator trim servo- what is a good, light weight connector that will accommodate the pigtail comming off the servo? I think the (5) leads are about #22 gauge.

Bryan
Click to expand...

I used an RJ45 connector along with some CAT5 wiring; the twisted pairs should help with noise immunity on the trim position leads.
 
Hey Darwin,

You can flip the polarity of the trim motor in the setup menus when you use Vertical Power.

RV7Guy said:
Use a 3 pin Deans for the colored wires and a 2 pin for the two white wires. This will allow you to flip the connector for proper direction of the servo.

Most good hobby shops will have 2 and 3 pin Deans, but not the 5 pin.
Click to expand...
 
D sub crimp pins and sockets

I think I got the idea from this site but I used the Dsub crimp pins and sockets on the small trim servo wires, Basically crimp them on and push the pins into the sockets and heatshrink tubing over the connection. Easy to do and easy to fix.
 
tyco cpc

On the 2 seaters a Tyco series 2 sq flange receptacle on the bulkhead under the emp fairing works great. Then a plug on the pigtail. Pops on and off when you want to pull an elevator and tail feed right through. Looks pro and gives you quick test points. Will not go bad almost never.
 
little molex

Here's a picture of what I came up with. It shows the entire installation from the servo to the deck under the vertical stabilizer.

I used a six pin .062 molex connector. I'll finish it off with some "shoe goo" and heatshrink.
p1010904h.jpg
 
Connector for Elevator Trim

lucaperazzolli said:
Cost nothing, was my choice. Spoke with RayAllen @ OSH09 and it's a common option.

http://www.rv8.it/log/electrical_system/wiring_tech/Pages/11.html

Other way D-sub 9 pin, it's another nice idea :

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html

my 2 cents
Click to expand...

Trent, and others, please a couple questions about your elevator trim connector ideas.
Where did you get that DIN connector?
Does the DIN connector have enough AMPS for a trim servo?
Does the upstream connector fit thru the hole in the elevator so that you can remove the elevator and pull the wire and connector thru the hole?
And is the connector a latched connection so it won't come undone?

My basic question is what electrical question is used for the elevator trim so you can remove the elevator? The connector would have to pass thru that hole in the elevator spar.

thanks
 
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