JerryG150

JerryG150

Well Known Member
Super difficult for me to install MS21919 cushioned clamps to hold plastic tubing around the rudder cables inside "center cosole" under access panel. I really hate to struggle for 5-6 hours. Any tricks?:confused: :confused:
 
Hey Jerry

If it is what I remember, just open up the clamps with 2 pair of pliers. Put it over the plastic sleave, the take a pair of channel locks and bend it back into general shape around the plastic. They'll take a lot of bending. Once or twice won't hurt it.

John Bender
 
safety wire works

A trick that works very well involves using a piece of safety wire and safety wire pliers. You wrap the safety wire around the metal flanges of the clamp and twist it to bring them together enough to start the screw. Once you have the screw started, you can cut the piece of safety wire off. I have not looked at the EAA video to see if this is what they suggest but this has always worked for me.
 
JerryG150 said:
Super difficult for me to install MS21919 cushioned clamps to hold plastic tubing around the rudder cables inside "center cosole" under access panel. I really hate to struggle for 5-6 hours. Any tricks?:confused: :confused:
Click to expand...

If you want to add another tool to your collection, get a pair of Adel clamp pliers:

http://smamtools.com

I have a home-made version of these pliers and they definitely remove the frustration of installing Adel clamps.
 
There is a wonderful thread on this somewhere in the archives, and done in rhyme by some authors. I have always just run the crew through with some compression with my finger, and and found the screw thread will grab enough of the second flange/tab to hold it compressed somewhat. I ensure enough of the screw is sticking through to start it in the nutplate. The only danger with this method is that if the screw thread releases the second tab, it may go flying.
 
Too late

Geez, great suggestions. Why do these always come after I have completed a struggle!;)
 
I just use the very small 4" cable ties. The clamps hardest to do are usually where there isn't any room for the special pliers or the safety wire method. Plus, I have more holes in my fingers from safety wire than I care to think about. The cable ties work well, and then once the nut is started I just clip the cable tie and continue to tighten.

Vic
 
"I have more holes in my fingers from safety wire than I care to think about."

Yep, me too! I've always thought that it was misnamed.
 
Not too hard

I thought this was going to be a bear. I had my spousal-tech hold the screw in the hole with a screwdriver. I was able to fish my hand in there and get the clamp on and over the screw threads and held with the clamp spring tension. Then I held the nut in place as she turned the screw. It took all of about 15 minutes for both sides... but maybe it was just a good day.

Don
 
Dgamble said:
"I have more holes in my fingers from safety wire than I care to think about."

Yep, me too! I've always thought that it was misnamed.
Click to expand...

Probably nobody would buy it if it was called Danger Wire. :)

On-topic content: I've used all the techniques mentioned above, at various times. My first approach is always to reach for the adel clamp pliers, but they don't always fit into places where I need to put the clamp. However, even if they can't be used directly, they are still really great for "pre-bending" the clamp to conform around the item being secured. Giving the clamp a squeeze first really helps the holes line up when you go to put the bolt in using one of the other methods.

mcb
 
We had to change the shape of those clamps to get enough clearance between the rudder pedal torque tubes and the aluminum above. We tightened a short bolt and nut through the holes in the clamp and then squeezed it in a vise to flatten it out a little. Too much and the elongated clamps hit each other, too little and the clamps interfered with the torque tubes.
 
JerryG150 said:
Super difficult for me to install MS21919 cushioned clamps to hold plastic tubing around the rudder cables inside "center cosole" under access panel. I really hate to struggle for 5-6 hours. Any tricks?:confused: :confused:
Click to expand...

Gerry, At work in the tool crib, we have a little "U" shaped shim with a lip on the back edge. The idea is you put the #10 screw, into the compressed clamp, then slide "slotted shim" into the first thread below the shank of the screw. This will hold the clamp compressed on the screw. Then install the screw into the anchor nut a couple of threads, and pull the shim out from between the clamp and anchornut by gripping the lip with a pair of longnose pliers. I am trying to find out what they are called and where to purchase them from. The other method we commonly use, is the lockwire method around the clamp as suggested by jte65. Someone else may be able to help as to where to get these clips from. Goodluck..... Marcus.
 
1001614ku4.jpg
 
VHRV12 said:
Gerry, At work in the tool crib, we have a little "U" shaped shim with a lip on the back edge. ... I am trying to find out what they are called and where to purchase them from. ... Goodluck..... Marcus.
Click to expand...

Any luck finding the info on what they are called? How about a picture?
 
thanks ...

Thanks for all the good ideas. I finished installing the 6 adel clamps holding the plastic sleeve around the rudder cables by the seat ribs. Can't tell you how many hours I spent on them. That would be too embarassing. Let's just say I'll have most hours for completing the Finishing Kit ... whenever that may happen.

The hemostat tool did the trick along with the new ratchet wrenches.
 
Bubblehead said:
Any luck finding the info on what they are called? How about a picture?
Click to expand...

Sorry Bubblehead, I am currently in Singapore, and wont be back in the Hangar until the end of January. I rang the Toolcrib and he told me these clips are called CLIPITS. I have searched the internet in vain, so I dont have a picture. Best I can describe it. Bend a hacksaw blade until it snaps. You now have half a hacksaw blade with a bent up area at one end. This bent area is what you grip with your long nose pliers to pull it out once the thread is started. Cut the other end off square about 1" long. Cut a 1/2" long slot longditudinally into the square end. Taper the slot from about .200" down to .180" in the throat. (a very slight taper:)). Remove the jagged teeth, and deburr it. This will fit nicely onto a 10/32 screw. You can make ones with a smaller slot for 8/32, 6/32 etc. When I get home I will post photos and more details. Hope this helps... Marcus.
 
This is why we call them "nut launchers" in my shop!

I have found the safety wire method to work best for me. Its a matter of discipline. I can be greedy and think that I can "just this once" get the clamp in place, squeeze it enough with my bare hands to get a bolt and nut through. 20 minutes later, and three lock nuts lost, I wish I had just taken the 5 minutes to do the wire trick.

In tight places, I can get the wire loop set up part way with the clamp out where I can get at it; then, slide the clamp into final position and do the twisties to get it closed enough to get the bolt and nut started.
 
Use an Awl and 2 Needle Nose Vice Grips

I use an Awl and 2 needle nose Vice Grips. If you clamp them down with an awl in the hole it keeps them aligned. One pair of vice grips for the initial clamp and the second over the bolt head for the second clamping. Once you get a good bite with the second Vice Grip, then pull the firs one out as you finalize the second clamping. You should end up with a bolt clamped into the both ends of the adel clamp and room to start the nut.

I have lots of spots FWF with two Adel Clamps together and this is the only way... My install time went from 35 minutes to 2 minutes with this method.

Hans
 
I tried the cable ties today and they worked great. I used a center punc to align the holes, used a small pair of vice grips to close the clamp, removed the center punch, then cable tied the clamp shut and removed the vice grips. The tie kept it almost completely closed and made getting the bolt in pretty easy.
 
use a long AN3 bolt about 1 1/2" and a pair of vice grips. The long bolt makes it easy to align both holes of the clamp. Once the bolt is through both holes use the vice grips to close them tight then remove the bolt and place the correct length bolt in. You can do this in under two minutes with practice.

Ken
 
VHRV12 said:
Sorry Bubblehead, I am currently in Singapore, and wont be back in the Hangar until the end of January. I rang the Toolcrib and he told me these clips are called CLIPITS... Marcus.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the description Marcus. I hope things are going well in Singapore. When are you going to be back home? I'd still like to see a picture of the Clipits.
 
Plastic tube

With the help of these comments I managed to get the Adel clamps on without much difficulty. Doing up the nuts was harder ;-)

My inspector looked where the rudder cable passes through the next bulkhead towards the front and noticed there a change of direction of perhaps 10-15 degrees. There's no fairlead or pulley, just an ordinary plastic snap pushing which he feels will wear away. If the plastic tubing was a foot longer it could pass through this next bulkhead (selcured with another Adel clamp) and it would have eliminated this potential problem.

Any views on the likely wear as it stands?

Cheers...Keith
 
Bubblehead said:
Thanks for the description Marcus. I hope things are going well in Singapore. When are you going to be back home? I'd still like to see a picture of the Clipits.
Click to expand...
John, I have sent you an Email with the Pics. Didnt know how to post pics. If you can, please post the pics for all to see. Thanks Marcus.:)
 
I find that one of my problems with Adels is the two holes don't line up well, hence getting the screw thru it is a struggle. I find that Adels have a little "memory" to them. Now before I try to install 'em, I pre-compress the clamp with a round shank phillips screwdriver aligning the holes perfectly. Then I pry it apart and install it "en situ". When I re-compress it, the holes usually line up like a charm. Maybe I'm crazy, but it works for me. :eek:
 
The other day I was updating my builder's log and added that I worked on the airplane -- cleaning up the wiring runs through the baggage compartment. Time worked: 5 hours. OK, that was bearable until I had to add the description: "Installed four Adel clamps."
 
VHRV12 said:
Gerry, At work in the tool crib, we have a little "U" shaped shim with a lip on the back edge. The idea is you put the #10 screw, into the compressed clamp, then slide "slotted shim" into the first thread below the shank of the screw. This will hold the clamp compressed on the screw. Then install the screw into the anchor nut a couple of threads, and pull the shim out from between the clamp and anchornut by gripping the lip with a pair of longnose pliers. I am trying to find out what they are called and where to purchase them from. The other method we commonly use, is the lockwire method around the clamp as suggested by jte65. Someone else may be able to help as to where to get these clips from. Goodluck..... Marcus.
Click to expand...

Marcus emailed me two photos to show this little device which are posted below. I had not understood that slides over the bolt threads to hold the clamp shut. Very cool. Now we just need to find a source, although they look easy enough to make. These sort of remind me of some little clips used with automotive upholstery. Maybe there is something in that hobby/profession that could be adapted?

Thanks for the photos Marcus. They helped a lot.

798096261_9PXhU-M.jpg


798096318_9tH6e-M.jpg
 
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