I see that these trailing edge dies are recommended. Do you need both of these for an RV-14 or just the RV-14 specific ones? The RV-14 specific ones only mention the elevator so I'm wondering if I need both.
Thanks,
Doug
I used both - the RV-14-specific one for the elevators, and the "regular" one for ailerons, flaps, and rudder, all of which have a more normal trailing edge taper to a sharp edge.
_Alex
I see that these trailing edge dies are recommended. Do you need both of these for an RV-14 or just the RV-14 specific ones? The RV-14 specific ones only mention the elevator so I'm wondering if I need both.
Thanks,
Doug
Just offering an alternative. I built per the plans and section 5 and did not use any special tools. I partially set the rivets with a squeezed and carefully back riveted to finish them off. All of my trailing edges are dead straight and I am really happy with how they look….especially my rudder.
Not that I've seen a ton of RV-14 builder YouTube videos yet but I did do a search for rv-14 elevator and didn't find one that seemed to use either of the pre-configured specialty squeezer sets and I also haven't found a good one yet that really goes over any details on the elevator trailing edge closeout.
Haven't seen any builder video yet either discuss the need or use of the modified #40 countersink or using modifying the ends of the trailing edge wedge to match the thickness of the elevator tip fairing. Buy I've got 18 months to worry about it according to my kit status page, lol.
Just offering an alternative. I built per the plans and section 5 and did not use any special tools. I partially set the rivets with a squeezer and carefully back riveted to finish them off. All of my trailing edges are dead straight and I am really happy with how they look….especially my rudder.
The modified #40 countersink is necessary for the Elevator trailing edge "wedge" because of its shape and thickness. I also used the Cleaveland special "wedge" template to make the countersinking super easy. (see https://youtu.be/2NQ-017kxGE?t=20 ) I believe I used the modified #40 countersink on the rudder trailing edge as well.
I'm about to close out my elevators and trim tab (tank sealant on the foam ribs going in tomorrow) and can take some special care to add detail to my videos of it, but in all honesty it's not a big deal, especially with the special squeezer sets. I used the AEX squeezer set on my rudder and it was super simple.
The key IMO is to cleco the trailing edge to something rigid and let either the tank sealant or VHB tape cure before doing any riveting.