Bike beam type

The one I have used most until I started on engine stuff is a beam style I picked up at a bike shop. It goes up to 70 in lbs. this takes care of most jobs on our kits and it is light and easy to work into tight spots.

It was reccomecded by someone on this sight.

Cheers
 
the only place that I have used them so far was on the bolts that are used on the ribs of the wing. There are bolts not the first 8-10 ribs. they need to be torqued down to a certain in-lbs. the hard part was determining the nut drag for each bolt. SInce the nut drag can be 0 to 25, I ended up buying one of the following:

http://www.amazon.com/2955-Torque-W...680&sr=8-2&keywords=torque+wrench+inch+pounds

I am building a -14, so I don't know if you will need this wrench.
 
You need a decent quality inch-pound torque wrench like this one from Avery: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=4910. Eventually, you will also need a Foot-LB wrench like this one: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=4915

You can generally account for the run-on torque by using the high end of the torque range specified in AC43.13.

There will be places where it's next to impossible to use a torque wrench to get it exactly right. Remember, you want it to be tight...but not so tight that you are shearing off a bolt. It very easy to over tighten AN3 hardware.
 
For the 40 ft-lb up you can find a lot of options. For the smaller torques, I would say the KD beam up to 90 in-lb and Avery (CDI) 20-250 in-lb click type recommended are very high value tools. I studied this years ago and got the same tools. I got a used Snap-on rather than the avery, but for the price, I really should have gotten the Avery. The click type will allow you to torque in awkward places where you can not see the beam needle. The beam may be used where the click is in the low regions and less accurate.

You might find a snap on dial type in the 20-250 range on ebay for under $100 and that would be a good deal too, if it looks new. They are hard to catch.

Good luck, and happy building. A set of good quality tools can easily be resold with a high % recovery if that unfortunate need arises.
 
RVG8tor said:
The one I have used most until I started on engine stuff is a beam style I picked up at a bike shop. It goes up to 70 in lbs. this takes care of most jobs on our kits and it is light and easy to work into tight spots.
Click to expand...

Yep ...me too. It's the least-cost option I found for small bolts/screws in the lower in-lb ranges. I marked the primary torque points in Sharpie on the back side of the calibration flange, which increases the positioning options.
 
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