flyenforfun

Well Known Member
Does anyone have any advice on what kind of paint and where I can get it for the cockpit? I used epoxy primer on the inside now and I'm trying to get and idea for a topcoat. It seems like the only topcoat paint I can find are glossy paints but most of the cockpit?s I've seen are flat or semi gloss. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Matt
 
Rustoleum Industrial Rattle Cans

They do a light and dark industrial grey enamel that I think looks good.

interiorxw4.jpg


Jim Sharkey
RV-6
 
I was wondering if any one else did that.

I was thinking of that. I wonder if I can get that in a quart can and spray it through my spray gun?
 
I was thinking of that. I wonder if I can get that in a quart can and spray it through my spray gun?

The rattle cans are cheap, easy and available from the "aviation aisle" at Home Depot. I think I used three or four cans total - and the finish is pretty good with no clean up of equipment :)

I originally bought one of each color to determine which I liked. I ended up using both - dark grey for fixed structure and light grey for removable panels.

Jim Sharkey
 
Flattening

I was thinking of that. I wonder if I can get that in a quart can and spray it through my spray gun?

Automotive paint suppliers have a flattening agent that can be added to gloss paint. The amount added varies the sheen from gloss to really flat. Flattening agents contain ingredients that, when added to paint or clear, disrupt the clarity of the material, making it easy to get a non-gloss finish in any color you want. In some cases, the flattening ingredient is a wax additive; in other cases, it's an inert physical particulate (silica, for example) that floats on top to prevent reflectivity of an otherwise glossy material.

John Clark
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
top coat cockpit paint

Rattle can spray paint is not thick or hard enough to stand up to the use of an airplane interior. It flakes of after a while. In painting the prep is 90% of the effort. I don't agree with the reflection of gloss paint in an RV. My new panel will be a high gloss carbon fiber. I also painted a friends panel glossy to match the interior. It turned out great and makes the cockpit look larger.

Paint it whatever color you want without worry of reflection, it's just not an issue.

Try to use a 2 part paint and get a touch up gun from the hardwars store. You will fill it more often but it is smaller and easier to get into tigh spaces. Apply a 2 part primer and skuff it then apply the top coat. You'll learn to apply paint and have a more durable surface.

Tad Sargent
 
It may not be an issue till the sun hits it and reflects up on the canopy. Wearing a white shirt is a big reflection.

Keep your panel as dark and as flat paint as possible.

I deal with reflections all of the time. MY wings are yellow and reflect on the canopy. My panel is cream color (the trend then) and often reflects on the canopy right in front of you. The panel is due for an upgrade, and will be a flat dark gray. The wings......... they will stay yellow.
 
Last edited:
Topcoat cockpit paint

Sherwin Williams Jet Flex is their line of interior aircraft finishes. Jet Flex is a polyurethane enamel available in satin or flat finish. They have a number of stock colors or will mix to suit. I haven't tried it yet, but intend to use this on my RV-9A.
 
Prefer PPG DCC

Well,
I've built two RV's now and I've done this both ways. My '9 has about 6 years and 500 hours on a Rustoleum interior. There are significant wear areas on the roll bar and other areas that get contact. The surface finish is also just okay, not great.

My '8 I shot high gloss WHITE PPG DCC which is a single stage urethane. This is really a very tough paint and I like it a lot. For all you folks that just know that it will reflect, sorry, but its a non-issue. The panel is even white and no problems there. Since all of this area is below the canopy it just doesn't get a chance to reflect up into the plex.

This boils down to what you want to achieve. If you want easy and cheap, go rattle can knowing thats its a second class finish. If you want a MUCH tougher, higher quality finish, and don't mind a little bit of work, then shoot a good quality urethane.
 
Jet Flex

I bought a bunch of rattle can samples and wasn't happy with any of them so decided to go with the water-reducible version of Jet Flex. The water-reducible product isn't considered to be HAZMAT and has very little odor while wet (similar to latex house paint in terms of odor level). Obviously you still need a mask while spraying, but a decent mask from Home Depot is fine.

Not cheap, but a good product. I sprayed two thin coats (per the directions) using an HVLP gun to get a gloss finish and then added a texture coat (basically a thicker mix with lower pressure-also per the directions).

Other than my learning curve with the spray gun it was easy and I'm very satisfied with the results.

Good luck in your decision!
Mike
 
Trade-Offs

Just my personal experience and ?2 Cents:?

2-Part Systems:

Pro: Extremely durable; little to no wear over time. Cures relatively quickly. Professional finish.

Con: More labor/tool intensive to apply. More expensive.

Rattle Cans:

Pro: Easy to apply and touch-up. Readily available locally. Less expensive.

Con: Less durable; wear areas need touch-up over time. Needs at least 7 days at 70 degrees to properly cure/harden. Acceptable finish.

My Decision: Rattle Cans (zinc chromate or Sherwin Williams 988 primer; Duplicolor Engine Enamel paint). I achieved a nice satin surface. Paint was cured at least 7 days or accelerated via heating to achieve good surface hardness. I did some nonscientific testing, and Duplicolor Engine Paint appears to achieve a harder, more durable surface than typical Home Depot or Lowe?s rattle can paints including the ?high performance? varieties.

If you want the best, definitely go with a 2-Part System. If you want what?s practical and acceptable, go Rattle Can.

Good Luck!

Bill Palmer :)
 
Yep

Thats a pretty reasonable way to look at it.

Probably the biggest discriminate is whether you're comfortable / configured to spray auto paint. If so, its no big deal. If you haven't done before, or you don't have the equipment then it IS a big deal.
 
Another vote for Auto finishes

I too used PPG Concept (DCC) in my cockpit. It's high gloss and matches the powder coating from Van's. I've been flying for 1.5 years and wouldn't change a thing. I have no wear on my paint and have no reflection problems.
 
PPG for me and my -8

I'm another PPG Concept guy. It's gray and glossy and I have no reflection issues. This stuff dries really hard and has held up well over three years of completing the interior and now five years of flying. There are a few dings and scratches mostly from my frequent and abusive trial and fit of the interior before I completed the airplane, but I would definitely use it again. (I've never had any luck with rattle can stuff holding up.) Find a good automotive store for supplies. It ain't cheap but it's worth it.

One note of caution, the PPG primer goes on very nice and smooth and you can put it on relatively heavy. If you really want a flat finish then might just use the primer. The finish coat however, seems to be thinner and you have to be careful not to put too much on at once or it will run. So be patient -- two thin coats are better than one heavy coat of the finish.

Chris
 
I just finished painting my interior with JetFlex water based. A bit pricey but nice to work with. No complaints with the paint so far except $$$. The paint lays down nicely, flashes quickly and it is pretty easy to clean up. I used a satin paint. Someone on VAF a while back (I believe it was Pete Howell) suggested to check into a similar if not the same paint called Polane 700T. Might be locally available and cheaper.
b0ea5247239811a140d623d33970c9f822316_0413001755.jpg