[Michael Burbidge]

I've been searching around the forum and found a bunch of info on tip-up canopy gap. On the pilot's side where the canopy skin meets the forward skin, the canopy skin is at its maximum 1/8" proud of the forward skin.

I've been flying like crazy since receiving my airworthiness certificate, planning to address this later.

But I got wondering yesterday if this is dangerous or potentially damaging to the canopy. Could the canopy be ripped off because of this?

Here's a picture.

Thanks,
Mike-

 

[Bugsy]

Mines bigger than that

I don't like the cold air that blows in. My plan was to create a faired flox and resin bump in front of the gap, but it's getting too cold up here now.

 

[UnPossible]

I had the same problem and used fiberglass to build up the area ahead of the tip-up.... its now painted and looks great.

 

[scrollF4]

Jason,
Please tell me more about your approach, because I have the same gap problem Mike has...and I blame Bugsy 'cause he helped me Sika the canopy.

What did you mix with the epoxy...some sort of filler? Or is it straight epoxy with cabosil? How did you level it to the same level as the canopy skin?

 

[Vlad]

Keep flying Michael. Address it later when you are ready for painting. Other then wet feet flying through the rain nothing to worry about


Take a look at the back there is another potential leak.

 

[Michael Burbidge]

Nice Jason..

Wow, that looks nice Jason!

This kind of stuff is so hard to do now that I'm flying. I just don't want to take the plane down for long and not be able to fly it. Perhaps the middle of the winter.

I can't even get myself to put the pants on because the airplane might be down for a couple of days. What if there's a beautiful day to fly during that time?

I suppose I might be convinced when the air coming in through the "scoop" is cold enough to overwhelm the heat.

Michael-

 

[KRviator]

I have that same problem and built a small ramp in front using micro then sanding it smooth. Turned out nicely, but now I have to re-do it a little higher after installing seals under the canopy rails.

If you plan on installing something like bruceh and I did, do it before you build up in front of canopy. The locking lugs at rear will cause the canopy assembly to pivot slightly on this rubber seal, in turn raising the front of the canopy assembly around 2mm, ruining the perfect alignment you just achieved. Don't ask me how I know...

"Micro" is short for microballoons, tiny, tiny glass spheres finer than talcum powder that you mix into an epoxy mixture to create a kind of slurry. The more microballoons, the thicker ("stiffer") the slurry. For this application, you want it stiff enough that when you scoop your paddlepop stick in the mixture, it doesn't run off, instead forming little micro-mountains like this on the stick.

All up, not including painting, this should take no more than 2 hours to do. 30 minutes to mix and apply the micro, and 90 mins at most a couple of days later sanding it smooth.

Step 1: Determine if you actually have a problem.

Yep. We do.

Step 2: Mix up a stiff micro mixture, apply it to the gap and rough it to shape.

Step 3: Sand smooth.

Step 4: Crackatinny.

 

[lr172]

I have the same issue and will just use filler to fair it. I have been using Rage (Poly Filler, i.e. Bondo) because I have it and am comfortable with it (painted several cars). I have avoided epoxy due to my unfamiliarity with sanding it and the longer cure time. Poly filler is ready to sand in 15 minutes and it sands pretty easy.

On the issue Vlad raised about the rear canopy. I assumed that would leak without some sealer. While my rear canopy is fitted and drilled, I haven't installed it yet. I plan to use some sealant between the plexi and skin. I will probably forgo silicone to avoid paint issues. May use some permatex #2, but wondering what others may have used here.

Larry

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.

 

[Sam Buchanan]

I plan to use some sealant between the plexi and skin. I will probably forgo silicone to avoid paint issues. May use some permatex #2, but wondering what others may have used here.

Larry

A small fillet of proseal (tank sealant) can be applied after the fact to seal the exterior gap between plexi and skin. It can also be painted if you wish.

 

[Walt]

I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.

Yep, that's what I did, second time came out perfect

 

[UnPossible]

Jason,
Please tell me more about your approach, because I have the same gap problem Mike has...and I blame Bugsy 'cause he helped me Sika the canopy.

What did you mix with the epoxy...some sort of filler? Or is it straight epoxy with cabosil? How did you level it to the same level as the canopy skin?

It has been a couple of years since I fixed this, so my memory is a bit fuzzy.... but I believe that I used strips of fiberglass near the canopy opening, then went over that with epoxy and microballoons to get to the final shape. Overall this took a night or two and really improved the fit and finish of the plane.

Hope this helps,
Jason

 

[eatenbyagrue]

Canopy fix

I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.

I would be very interested in hearing more about this. My gap is about 1/2" and I think I'd like to redrill.

 

[az_gila]

A small fillet of proseal (tank sealant) can be applied after the fact to seal the exterior gap between plexi and skin. It can also be painted if you wish.

I'm planning on a thin strip of self-adhesive foam, just like that supplied with the Duckworks lights.

 

[rzbill]

I have ( or had ) the same problem on my canopy in the curves on the side, the top (between the hinges) was and is fine so a repositioning of the hinge points is not the fix. During construction the fit was better but I think it went awry when I installed the canopy frame reinforcement pieces.

Anyway, I obtained a metal shrinker this past weekend, practiced a bit on some spare sheet and then shrank the two curves. It is 90% better. It is a "do it a little, then test fit, do it some more, test fit" kind of thing and I ran out of time before getting it all the way done. I'll do some more in the coming weekends. It has marred the surface of the aluminum but on my practice piece I was able to remove much of the marring with a roloc scotchbrite pad and buffing wheel so maintaining a polished airplane is not out of the picture. If not, I'll paint.

My main purpose was to improve the water seal by eliminating those two "hood scoops". I've got a little more to go to get the curves fully faired into place.

Sorry, no pics to share yet. The starting point was very much like the pics previously in this thread. If I remember, I'll post when done.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

I would be very interested in hearing more about this. My gap is about 1/2" and I think I'd like to redrill.

First we should confirm where you have 1/2" gap.
A gap caused by the canopy frame skin being 1/2" above the fwd top fuselage skin probably can't be resolved by drilling new hing point holes... the holes would be drilled right on the very edge of the hinge horns (if they even hit the horn at all).

 

[Bavafa]

I have helped fix this problem on a couple of RV's by getting the holes in the frame hinge arms welded closed and then drilling new holes while the canopy is pulled down tightly.

I will describe the process if you are interested.
It is not very difficult and doesn't take much time as long as you have access to someone with experience welding 6061 alum.

Another and perhaps a much easier method would be to use a new HDPE block where the frame hinge arm gets connected to. You can simply use the new block with only the hole for the hinge drilled and use a temporary short pin to connect them together in such way that they can be inserted in place. Have someone align the canopy exactly at the location you want it while you are inside and then clamp the block in its place. If you are happy with the position of the canopy, drill the two bolts that connect the block assembly to the frame.

 

[Rob Rickards]

Second re drilling the HPPE block. I turned them around and managed to drill a hole in each just where required to drop the canopy a tad to match the fwd skin. I will get a new blocks next time I order from VANs and match drill them using first ones as templates.
Please can someone advise on an effective size and type of rubber seal for the canopy side rail to fuselage wall join.
The kit has various strips none look effective for this job.
My forward skin no longer catches the canopy fwd edge but one side has gap of nearly .25! Ideas? Struts are fitted btw. I can make another wider forward top skin (will be my fourth) and sand off .25 off the forward edge of the canopy to improve geometry? Maybe after fitting the seal mentioned above?

Regards

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

My canopy was sitting higher than yours and it was also only one side because I didn't get the hinges quite right. I thought I was a dead man, then built it up with some balsa and fiberglass.

But, man,was it ever dispiriting

Here's a page on how I did it.

You get a lot of skills building these darned things and you can really make 'em look spiffy.

When painted, it looks more than fine. It looks great.

Yeah, the way the back of that cowling lifts is troublesome. But I've developed a good solution for that, too.

I don't look at it.