[Flying Canuck]

I don't think I want to hear the answer to this question. I've completed riveting my canopy frame (9A if that matters) except the aft splice plate, my hinges are drilled. I thought everything was lining up well, but now that it's solid and clamped in place, I have a gap problem. At the back of the canopy I have the requisite 1/8" gap to the canopy rail. By the time I get up to the splice to the frame weldment, the gap jumps up to 5/16". I can press it down to 1/8" but it won't stay there. The side gap at the front is similarly large. The same thing happens on both sides. In case it may help visualize the installation, the gap between the canopy and forward skins is about 3/16" on top down to 1/16" on the sides. The aft channel is clamped to the cabin frame with the 7/8" spacers called for in the plans. With the canopy skin clecoed on, I have a 5/32" gap to the side skin.

Here's a picture of the forward gap.

And one of the gap at the splice. There's a 1/8" spacer under the orange tape.

So here's what I see for options.

1. Build on. Not so sure that's an option, the final assembly might not line up and I'll probably never get a good seal on the canopy.
2. Replace the splice plates and wedges to change the angle of the splice. That would probably allow me to close the gap at the splice plate, but isn't going to help at the front end.
3. Gulp. Order a new canopy frame along with the splice plates and redo it. That's $300 plus shipping, so I'm not excited about that. If that's what I have to do though, I'll do it.

Anybody been there done that? Or maybe even avoided this issue altogether and can share their wisdom.

 

[rv7charlie]

Hi Claude,

It's been a long time since I built mine, but here goes:

It looks like your forward top skin isn't riveted yet. IIRC, the input I got when I was working on mine was that the top skin needs to be either riveted on, or every hole needs to be clecoed. You can't cleco the row of rivets where the canopy meets the skin & still tip up the frame, so I used some tiny metric flat head screws as temporary rivets in those holes.

Anyway, stuff related to the canopy moves a lot without the top skin tightly secured. Don't know if that's your problem, but it's worth a check.

Charlie

 

[BillL]

I am not clear on what exactly you have, is there some way to post the link to the picture, and not it's address?

 

[Flying Canuck]

No, I don't have the canopy skin on (just had a few clecos in). I just went and attached it with clecos in every hole and it did close the gap to 1/4". I just measured the spacer I used when fitting the front and lo and behold, it was also 1/4". So it looks like it is exactly how I built it - incorrectly. So the question is, will that much of a gap cause me issues down the road?

 

[rv7charlie]

Well, now the memories are getting really foggy, but is the trim skin pre-drilled?

 

[Snowflake]

Pictures aren't showing up...

 

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

I can't see your pictures, as has been noted, but I really hated the gap on the side rails. It wasn't so much the look from the outside for me; it was the look from the inside. Eventually, I added a fiberglass "skirt" on both sides.

My next plane is going to be so much better.

 

[Flying Canuck]

My first attempt at adding pictures didn't work, funny, I see the pictures in the post. Must be a google sharing thing. I've moved the pictures to a different site and edited my first post - hope that works.

The 1/16" of an inch I got back by putting the canopy skin on makes it look a lot better. The outside skin gap is only 1/8" and I probably can look at that when I'm done and not pull all my hair out. I guess I can match the gap with the side skirt and it will at least look uniform.

 

[rv7charlie]

I could see the pics when I replied the 1st time; still can.

 

[Bavafa]

Hi Claude,

It's been a long time since I built mine, but here goes:

It looks like your forward top skin isn't riveted yet. IIRC, the input I got when I was working on mine was that the top skin needs to be either riveted on, or every hole needs to be clecoed. You can't cleco the row of rivets where the canopy meets the skin & still tip up the frame, so I used some tiny metric flat head screws as temporary rivets in those holes.

Anyway, stuff related to the canopy moves a lot without the top skin tightly secured. Don't know if that's your problem, but it's worth a check.

Charlie

Agree with Charlie completely. To get a good assessment of all alignments, you will need to put the top skin in place and riveted or as tightly as riveted. I did find some discrepancies even with clecoed top skin as the weight of the canopy causes enough movement. For a more accurate assessment I recommend to add the struts as well, mine changed after adding the struts and fortunately for me, it moved it to a better fit.

 

[BillL]

Good Pictures. If you have the 1/8" spacers at the back of the rails, AND have the forward skin riveted on, AND the pivots drilled and in place, then . . .

Check with all clecos on the forward and canopy skins:

- is there a gap from the skin on the side down to the fuse skin?
- what is the gap between the canopy and forward skins?

IF they are all in the .020-.040 range, then you should be ok. Even if tapering.

If more than that (suspect it is based on the angle of the canopy frame), I would remake the splice and wedge if it were me. This canopy frame is sensitive to a build up of issues that lead to it being non adjustable at the end. Get it in shape now.

Actually it is not a big deal to replace these two. You can file/sand down the wedge and reuse it, make/buy a splice plate, then match drill it in place. The whole process should not take an hour. OK, maybe 2, but not all day. In the scheme of repairs, it is relatively small.