T

trib

Well Known Member
My seat backs rub on the tip-up canopy frame when closing the canopy on my 6A. I've noticed some posts concerning construction dimensions, but nothing on any fixes after constructed. It's only a slight rub, but sometimes it makes shutting the canopy difficult if a passenger is present as this tends to force the seat back a little more against the frame. Is there a fix for this that is commonly used? I was thinking about riveting a small piece of angle on the cross member behind the seatback where it rests, such that it would put a little pressure on the seat back in the inboard direction to correct the rub. Looking to see if anyone has corrected this - all you clever people :D.
 
Drill out the hinge at the bottom of seat back and put in a new one that's slightly offset... you may need to offset it just 1/4" or so.. no more.. I did it and it was actually pretty easy and painless..
 
Same Here

I was planning on some plastic blocks mounted to the foot of the roll bar to guide the latches on the canopy and ensure that it didn't move from side to side when opening and closing. I have enough clearance if the canopy stays centered but it does tend to flex from side to side.

I've seen this fix before.

Jim Sharkey
RV-6
 
Offset

I did make the guide blocks to help when closing the canopy, but also had to reposition a hinge as Radomir suggested. I replaced the lower hinge on the seat back itself (not on the floor). Piece o' cake. I also asked Abby at Flightline Interiors if interference with the rollbar is an issue with the seat covers and she didn't seem to think so, but the offset gives me a little more wiggle room for the upholstery.
 
49clipper

Anyone out there thought about cutting down the tops of the seats? Just about 3" inches that is above the horizontal bar. A friend with a -6 said he is going to do that and it sounds like a good idea to me. Makes getting bags in easier, reaching over the bar into the baggage area easier, etc. Any cons to it?
 
Thanks guys, I knew you could do it.:) Not sure why I overlooked the obvious solution of redrilling the hinge on the seat back, but that's what I plan on doing.
 
I had the same

problem and just switched the seatbacks! The hinge was already offset enough to make the difference and I didn't have to drill anything. Worth a try.
 
Good thinking Rusty, but mine are identical and it doesn't correct the problem. I'd already thought of that one!
 
<thinking out loud>

(I'm going to think about purposefully offsetting my -7 seatbacks so this is an option for me.)

Thanks for the indirect tip. Still on the emp, but pounding away.
 
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