S

Scott DellAngelo

Well Known Member
Man I am sick of the canopy. After hours and hours and hours of fitting I decided I had done enough and it was time to drill. Everything was fairly tight with just a tad of space in the front 8" or so in the center (1/32" or less gap). I figured I would (still will?) put some aluminum tabs to hold down similar to what I have seen on Checkoway and others websites. Well I taped the snot out of it and drilled it Tuesday night. Upon removing all the tape, the front area basically sits down, but as the canopy curves around it is no longer contacting the skin on either side (i'm guessing almost a 1/4"). I can only figure that as I clecoed the canopy and it was getting tight with the side rails it started bending the whole thing in and forcing that bend from no longer contacting. I bet I am not the first to do this so hopefully someone has some advice.

Now the question is what should I do?

I am thinking to still maybe use a couple aluminum tabs across the very front to hold it, and then use epoxy with microballons (no clue what I am really saying here as I haven't really ever played with fiberglass, epoxy, any of that stuff before) to fill the gap. Then the usual fiberglass to blend from skin to canopy. Also if I do this should I be trying to actually "glue" the canopy to skin or should I be just filling the gap without bonding the two pieces together?

It's disheartening to seemingly have messed this up. Took yesterday off from working and went flying instead since we actually had good weather for once and recharge the building batteries.

Thanks,
Scott
#90598 Canopy
N598SD reserved
 
canopy

Scott: The tip-up canopy has a mind of it's own. I had several fitting issues. Another big one is clearance on the forward skin when opening. Be careful when you install it and open it for the first time. Concerning your current problem; if I understand you correctly and you have drilled the plexiglass canopy to the frame and have a 1/4" gap on the front sides, you are probably stuck with the gap. However, filler, fiberglass, and more filler are great concealers. When you put the first glob of filler, between the front of the canopy and the canopy skin, you will have to be careful that the filler is thick enough to not run through your 1/4" gaps and spill over onto the glareshield. There are some fiberglass/filler experts on this forum that hopefully can give you some direction on the best way to proceed. I also had minor gaps and followed the manual instructions/pictures and it worked out great. Once you get the fiberglass laid up, you will have a strong seal and one that you can mold, fill, and sand untill you are happy with the look. The gaps will be long gone, buried beneath your work and only you will know it's there. Go ye forth and hideth the gap. Jack
 
Canopy fit

Hi Scott-
If I'm understanding your description correctly, I don't see where you have a problem. Most of the canopys I've seen on the side by side RVs have gaps in this area. It's real hard to get them out because of the way this area transitions around. I think the key here is not to put any pressure on the middle front of the canopy when you rivet the tabs down. When you glass up the front fairing, you'll simple glass over this gap area and , when done, you won't know it's there. The tip up frame on my -6A was very flexible, you need the plexi to be able to move a bit in this area, or you could end up with a crack down the road!
Good Luck!
Bill Waters
 
Scott, I too have felt your pain.
See here http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-03-01.htm
After sizzling in anger for a while, I was over the fitment issue and made a tool like they sell to roll the skin down to match the forward skin. I looked closely at the pics on Vans website of their -7 and noticed I can see a gap in the same area from 30 feet away in their pics too. I went to Sun-N-Fun and got a closer look at the problem on their -7. They did the exact same thing and rolled the skin down! Yippie I thought! After I painted my canopy it came out looking great. Just keep on building. All my friends tease me about "polishing my bowling ball" but hey, thats me. :)

Jeff
 
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Yeah my description is no good but the comments are, thanks. :) I'm talking the canopy to canopy skin leaving from the skin "ears" forward around the corner. Once pulled in with clecoes much tighter than I could ever do with duct tape (and believe me I used lots), the canopy pulling in more caused the bubble to round off more and cause the gaps from canopy to canopy skin.

So as Bill says I can fill it up but I am guessing I need to at least lightly "hold" it somehow so that it can do a little flexing, but hard enough that it won't move around? Or I suppose the fiberglass serves at least some of that purpose while also smoothing the transition?

The drawing shows the epoxy on the edge and then glass over it with some pulled rivets. It seems like Dan and others were using the hold downs and skipping the pulled rivets. I guess I just need more epoxy than others to help close the hole and then glass?

Scott
 
Canopy fit

You got it, Scott.
Once the fiberglas is done, it ain't going no where. The clips are really just holding it in place til the glass work is done. When I did mine, there was nothing in the middle, clips came later I think. I had a fellow form my windscreen fairing out of aluminum. We held the plexi down with tape while forming the fairing. Once formed, it was attached thru the front canopy deck with screws, with no hard attachment to the plexi. Just used some silicone to seal out water.
As the others said, keep on building!
Bill Waters
 
Here are some pics of the various stages of my canopy fitup.

canopy23yb.jpg


I first did my rough cut, removing all the salvage and getting the canopy as close to fitting as possible. Your main concern here is that it sets on the frame and is within a 1/4" to 1/2" from the roll bar.

canopy37tc.jpg


Then the canopy is split. You work with just the front part now and start trimming until it nestles into the frame. Use clamps to hold it to the roll bar.


canopy50sv.jpg


Once the canopy is close, start to cleco it on, starting from the front, while the rear is clamped. You will need to readjust clamps as you move back and you may need to trim more along the sides to keep the canopy on the roll bar.


canopyfits0lf.jpg



Once the fit meets your approval, begin drilling larger holes for your screws. You may, again, need to adjust your fit as you go along.


Hope this helps,

Roberta
 
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Couldn't get 5 images in the last post. This is a long process and may take weeks to get it right. A lot of filler isn't necessary if you take the time to fit it properly. Only enough filler to form a bed and transition a radius is needed. Rivets are placed in the fiberglass to help secure the cloth and the front of the canopy to the skin.

rvgrin3a8vc.jpg


You should be able to keep the fit this close and minimize filler. Too much filler may crack off over time.

Roberta
 
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Is that the standard Van's canopy, Roberta? It looks like it has a little bit of tint.

Nice pictures, by the way. I'm bookmarking this topic for when I get to the canopy.

Dave
 
You know, I don't know if it is tinted. I did not ask for tinted, actually I didn't know tinted was an option. It has a little green/grey tinge to it, which I like. I just sort of assumed that Plexi just naturally had a little color. But the salvage was a bit dark, so maybe it is tinted. Not a whole lot, though. Come up to EAA in July and check it out.

Thanks,
Roberta
 
?

I am of the understanding that the standard Van's
canopy has a 'light' tint.
At least my canopy does and like Roberta,
I didn't order anything special from Van's.

I have never posted to the forum before,
and want to ask Roberta Hegy if she is related
to the Ray Hegy who built an early homebuilt
called 'El Chuparosa'. He carved props and might
have been from Marfa, TX.

Sorry for the private question,
I need to figure out the private email feature,
Tom Webster
RV-7A FWF
 
Ray Hegy was my hubby's father's 1st cousin. I remember seeing El Chuparosa at Rockford way back in the 60's. My Dad and Paul Poberezny went to high school together and were in the Wis ANG together (my Dad was the Wis ANG photographer and did the early photos for EAA Fly Ins), hence my long time association with airplanes and the EAA. I actually knew of Ray long before I ever met Rich, my husband. Oddly, I never actually met Ray in person. I spoke with him on the phone a few times, and asked him for a prop to grace our fireplace mantle in our new home on Air Troy Estates. He sent me a very nice wood prop. Ray passed on a few years ago. Sadly I missed meeting him.

Roberta
 
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ray hegys grandson

I grew up sitting front of his listening to stories up to his final days. He was a great man. I found myself in his shop often washing him and father Jim border at work. I'm sad to say that my father no longer makes hefty props. If there's anything u would like to know feel free to email me. Justin corder
 
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