I am building a 7 with tipup canopy. I am not using the canopy emergency release mechanism. I am having same problems as many before me with the skin and seal support making contact with canopy frame and glare shield. I also have a large crack between the canopy skin and forward skin with a bunch of holes between the sub panel and forward skin.
It dawned on my simple mine that a piano hinge would eliminate that problem and probably be stronger for these reasons:
1. The sub panel could be strengthened so it did not have the gap for the two hinge pin assemblies. This would make the sub panel stronger.
2. There appears to be about 10-12" of a straight area across the top of the sub panel (measured with a level- I am not an engineer). I think a stainless steel piano hinge would be much stronger that the two bolt hinge assembly that is currently used and there would be no skin impingement.
3. Also thought I could use a simple hook type cam lock mechanism on each side of canopy that would engage as it was being closed and pull each side tight to eliminate some of the water problems I have read about. The glare shield skin on either side of piano hinge may be able to overlap the forward firewall skin a little forming a better seal.
I realize that I would probably have to make a new glare shield skin to account for the overlap on either side of the piano hinge, if it would work, but I think I am going to have to do that anyway with my gap problem.
I also believe that I learned at Oshkosh that Van's has reengineered the tip up for the 14 and made it simpler. I plan to check with them to see if I can learn the simpler process.
I have followed this forum since purchasing my project in Feb and there are alot of very experienced builders that have helped alot of us not so experienced. I am sure that many of you have pondered an easier way to do this tip up and to eliminate many of the problems I have mentioned and the leaking that I have read so much about. With the all glass panels, water is a great concern. Also, I may never get this plane to fly if I cannot get the canopy to fit. Thanks
Neil - I have made the 2012 contribution
It dawned on my simple mine that a piano hinge would eliminate that problem and probably be stronger for these reasons:
1. The sub panel could be strengthened so it did not have the gap for the two hinge pin assemblies. This would make the sub panel stronger.
2. There appears to be about 10-12" of a straight area across the top of the sub panel (measured with a level- I am not an engineer). I think a stainless steel piano hinge would be much stronger that the two bolt hinge assembly that is currently used and there would be no skin impingement.
3. Also thought I could use a simple hook type cam lock mechanism on each side of canopy that would engage as it was being closed and pull each side tight to eliminate some of the water problems I have read about. The glare shield skin on either side of piano hinge may be able to overlap the forward firewall skin a little forming a better seal.
I realize that I would probably have to make a new glare shield skin to account for the overlap on either side of the piano hinge, if it would work, but I think I am going to have to do that anyway with my gap problem.
I also believe that I learned at Oshkosh that Van's has reengineered the tip up for the 14 and made it simpler. I plan to check with them to see if I can learn the simpler process.
I have followed this forum since purchasing my project in Feb and there are alot of very experienced builders that have helped alot of us not so experienced. I am sure that many of you have pondered an easier way to do this tip up and to eliminate many of the problems I have mentioned and the leaking that I have read so much about. With the all glass panels, water is a great concern. Also, I may never get this plane to fly if I cannot get the canopy to fit. Thanks
Neil - I have made the 2012 contribution
