larrynew

larrynew

Well Known Member
Here's my method of scotch brite scuffing. I used a shank from a disc cutoff wheel in my die grinder and put three small scotch brite pads where the disc goes. Works great and is really fast. It's so simple that I'm sure many others are doing the same thing. Just thought I'd share because I hadn't seen it before.

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That's scary!

Where in the world on an RV kit do you need to remove that much material?
Scotchbrite is meant for light scuffing, not sanding.
 
Oh my... I'll be the first to say that I've never used one if those set-ups before. Hmm... :confused:
 
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Too aggressive was my first concern so I tested it on several pieces of scrap. Side-by-side with hand scuffing over some indicator marks (sharpie mark and several scratches) to judge if it was "sanding". No discernible difference with hand scuffing but I'm sure if you stayed in one spot with more pressure it would sand.

I have no need to convince anyone to try something new. I just thought I'd share as it works well for me. It was free - didn't have to buy anything new. And it was fast - hand scuffing the first tank skin rivet lines and all the rib and stiffener flanges took over an hour and with the die grinder took less than 15 minutes including setup.
 
Larry,
I'm just concerned that you may be "scuffing" much more than necessary. You should be able to "hand scuff" a tank skin in just a couple of minutes. All you need to do is the "break" the shine. You don't want to remove the alclad.
 
Mel,

If it should only take a couple of minutes to scuff all the rivet lines inside the tank including all the rib and stiffener flanges, I may be doing too much :(. I try to get a uniform "matt grey" to the surface. I don't have my instructions here at (shhh-work) but I remember Van saying to scuff it really good to give the proseal something to grip. I've had my TC out several times and he recently brought his son who works daily with proseal on KC-135s. Said everything looked great. Plus, no leaks on the first tank!!!
 
I used a vibrating palm sander "jitterbug" loaded with a scotchbrite pad to quickly knock the shine off of skins. Works like a charm....It is not too agressive as long as you use light pressure and keep it moving.
 
I use a set up like that all the time. I do however get round scotchbrite discs instead of cutting up squares. Another thing to do is get a DA sander and install a 3M Hook-it pad. The little hooks will grab on to a piece of scotchbrite really well. For really tuff or aggressive sanding I have scarier, more powerful tools. I can't use those though unless I first say "Hold My beer, watch this!"
:D
 
I use something similar, but I had a bad experience with it the other day. I was trying to scuff an area (already primed) for an antenna doubler.

I had already dimpled the holes and was having a hard time breaking the primer enough to get a good ground. So I went to the heavy duty artillery and sure enough, I removed about half of the dimple. I was heart broken for not paying attention and letting it happen.

I ended up saving it by enlarging the holes from #40 to #30 and putting in a larger rivet. It's still not perfect, but it's something I'm going to have to watch over time for cracks.

The lesson I learned was to be very very careful with when (and how) I use it.

On a side note, the vibrating sander with a scotchbrite pad works really well for breaking the shine on the aluminum. That's something I've been doing for awhile and haven't had any issue with it. Just make sure you dimple *after* the use of power tools. If you don't remove some of the dimple, you'll certainly shred your scotchbrite pad.
 
3M Purple (medium) Roloc disc anyone?

This thread sounds like it is searching for 3M Roloc discs.

I keep a stock of the purple ones and a few of the heavy ones for unusual situations.

The adapter will fit Roloc style sandpaper disks too. Those will make metal evaporate before your very eyes. :eek:

An adapter, right angle air tool and a roloc supply and you have what I consider one of the "must have" shop tools.

Search 3M Roloc and you will find the stuff. I usually pick up a bag at SnF since the local sources think they are plated in gold. (Lowes, Napa, etc)
 
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