R

Ronald Sutton

Member
Holding nut plates so you can drill them is easily done.:eek: Drill the hole a tap size under the called hole size. Take the next size smaller thread screw size, IE a 10/32 will take a 8/32 screw, a 8/32 will take a 6/32, 6/32 will take a 4/40 screw. Now the nut plate is centered and can not move when you drill the outer two ears of the nut plate. Actualy you will drill one outer ear and cleco it, then drill the opposite ear. Once riveted, you can drill out the hole to the shank size of the nut plate screw. ;)
 
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Bevan said:
You will make a lot of use for this tool in #6 and #8 sizes. Fast and easy. Love them.

Bevan
Click to expand...

One of the best tool investments I made. Saves significant time by not have to use screws as temporary fasteners.
 
Nut plates

I have an assortment of nutplates each with a screw in it with the head cut off . Pretty simple place the headless screw in the hole and use the nutplate as the drill jig.
Tom
 
No screws necessary

Easy, less expensive alternative to the above (for those of us on a budget :rolleyes:):

For size 6 screws: silver cleco the nutplate through the threads (of the nutplate) onto the #40 pilot hole in whatever structure you're attaching the nutplate to. Drill one ear #40, insert another cleco. Drill opposite ear to #40. Drill pilot hole up to size 6 (#28). Done.

For size 8 screws: copper cleco the nutplate through the threads (of the nutplate) onto the #30 pilot hole in whatever structure you're attaching the nutplate to. Drill one ear #40, insert another cleco. Drill opposite ear to #40. Drill pilot hole up to size 8 (#19). Done.

Used this method all throughout the airframe, including screwed down baggage floors. No big deal.
 
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