R

rvermeland

Member
I spent the last couple of months laying up a FAB for my Superior XP-IO-320 with Sam James Cowl. Seems like I get myself in a time consuming mess like this from time to time. Thought some might be interested in my solution. You can check it out here: http://www.rv-9aproject.com/Finishing/FAB.html

-rob
RV-9A last 80% to go...

FK_FAB_38.jpg
 
FAB

Rob....just wanted to compliment you on a very professional undertaking to build the box. A year ago I was in the same predicament with the 9A I built. Thought the Van's box was unsatisfactory and built a totally new one from aluminum.

Really nice work on your glass box...thanks for the photos......Heliojoe.
 
Rob.....Verrrry nice!

Sometimes you can look at one part and know the rest of the airplane is going to be good.
 
Outstanding!!

Now this is a great piece of fiberglass instruction to add to my archives!!
I so much enjoyed the fiberglass canopy skirt sub project on my 9A. So many of us find dread in all of that glass work....Then, there are those who embrace the challenge!!!
Thanks so much for sharing your process with us.

Regards,
Chris
 
Great Job!!!

Now that's craftsmanship! Everyone should check out the complete picture sequence on Rob's website.
 
It's beautiful work but I have two questions

It's really pretty and well done. But I have two questions (I have the same cowl and engine, more or less).

1. Where is the alternate air intake? I know you don't need "carb heat" but shouldn't there be an alternate intake in case something like a bird jams the snout intake?
2. Why did you decide not to use the one that came with the cowl or did they stop including it? Mine uses a K&N filter from a big-engine Explorer. Yours will probably do as well, but I get around 1.25" of boost at top speed, 8000 msl.
 
Answers to 2 questions

1. Where is the alternate air intake? I know you don't need "carb heat" but shouldn't there be an alternate intake in case something like a bird jams the snout intake?
Click to expand...

If you read to the bottom of my web page, you'll see that I have provisions to put the alternate air inlet on the top mounting plate forward of the FI servo. That's why I went with the oval shaped air filter and set the FAB as far forward as possible. I easily allow a 2.5" inlet which will be able to be opened and closed in flight.

2. Why did you decide not to use the one that came with the cowl or did they stop including it? Mine uses a K&N filter from a big-engine Explorer. Yours will probably do as well, but I get around 1.25" of boost at top speed, 8000 msl.
Click to expand...

I am using the shorty cowl from James Aircraft. It does not allow for the cone shaped filter. If it weren't for the extended hub requirement, I would have gone for it. When I called Vans, the extended hub prop was a special order item and several thousand more $$$. The shorty cowl is intended to use Vans FAB kit. After buying it and realizing all the mods necessary to make it work with my setup, I just decided to build from scratch. My oval filter has a little more area than the circular version Vans provides. I'm expecting to meet or exceed Vans FAB pressure recovery, but will have to wait until I'm in the air to verify.
 
One-off

jferraro16 said:
So....

When does the production run start???!!!

Me want.


Joe
Click to expand...


This was a custom job. Unless you fit your cowl the same as I did and have the same engine, it might have to be modified to work with your plane. That's what I was trying to avoid. Plus, I'm trying to finish my plane. If I got into the parts business, I may never finish! :D I'm in my 5th year of building and Rosie is giving me the business every time I see him at work. ;)

I now better understand Vans difficulty in designing a solution that will work on a variety of FF packages.
 
Which Part Number does the filter has?

Hello Rob

Excelent job!

Can you tell me the part number from the filter?

I have a similar situation, I plan to install a IO-320 (vertical draft) and the cown from Vans does not accept the highter trottlebody, so I have to cut the scoop of, get a O-360 scoop and fit it on! Or I redo a FAB like yours that will fit the original cowling.

Thanks, Dominik
 
rvermeland said:
If you read to the bottom of my web page, you'll see that I have provisions to put the alternate air inlet on the top mounting plate forward of the FI servo. That's why I went with the oval shaped air filter and set the FAB as far forward as possible. I easily allow a 2.5" inlet which will be able to be opened and closed in flight...
Click to expand...
You're right - I saw it after I posted. Sorry. Now I'll try to be helpful. On mine I discovered by accident that it's possible for the alternate air to open automatically if it needs to. I kept wondering why the cable knob kept coming back out! Of course, the answer is that I had an obstruction (self-made I'm ashamed to admit). If the cable run is set up right, air pressure will do the job. I'm not suggesting omitting the manual control, just allowing the mechanism to open with "suction" if it needs to.

You solved a number of problems, some of which I recognize, in a very elegant way and the craftsmanship looks jewel-like. You set a good example and a high standard.
 
Inspirational and Intimidating

Whoa, what a job!

I see posts like these and wonder about my skill set....

Thanks for sharing!

Michael
 
swisseagle said:
Hello Rob

Can you tell me the part number from the filter?

Dominik
Click to expand...


I used K&N part # HD-2075:

HD-2075 Product Specifications
Product Style: Oval Air Filter
Height: 2.438 in (62 mm)
Inner Wire: No
Inside Length: 8.375 in (213 mm)
Inside Width: 4.25 in (108 mm)
Outside Length: 9.75 in (248 mm)
Outside Width: 5.5 in (140 mm)
Top Style: Open
Top Material/Finish: None
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.69 oz (20 ml)
Weight: 1 lb (0.4 kg)
Product Box Length: 8.5 in (216 mm)
Product Box Width: 3.63 in (92 mm)
Product Box Height: 8.63 in (219 mm)

HD-2075.jpg


-rob
RV-9A Finishing - 80% to go....
 
Auto opening alternate air

On mine I discovered by accident that it's possible for the alternate air to open automatically if it needs to. -- H. Evans
Click to expand...

H.

I had seriously considered doing what Chris Heitman did a few years back. His was spring loaded. He chose the springs so that the door would crack open at the appropriate suction. You can see his work here: http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/altair.html

Chris' work is what got me started along this path. The thing I didn't like about his setup was that you would have no way of knowing if the alternate air door was open. I may end up doing something similar instead of the manual butterfly valve I have in mind.

-rob
RV-9A Finishing - 80% to go....
 
Inspirational and Imtimidating

MJarreau said:
Whoa, what a job!

I see posts like these and wonder about my skill set....

Thanks for sharing!

Michael
Click to expand...

I would have thought the same thing a few years ago. That's what's great about building your own aircraft. You gain a lot of skills (and confidence) as you go. Plus, these forums give you lots of encouragement and ideas!! What is intimidating today may be a welcome challenge for you later in the building process.

-rob
 
Rob,
Beautiful job on the air box. I am building a 9a too, with Sam James cowl. the engine is YIO-320 from Lycoming, basically same as yours. Finished my cowl and plenum. I am scratching my head to make the Van's air box to work, so far no luck. If you still have the wooden mode, can I borrow it. I will be glad to pay the material cost and shipping. After I am done, I am willing to send it back to you or pass it on to the next builder. Thanks,
Peter
 
This is Peter again from Tucson. I sent you a message from another lead on the forum. I have the shorty cowl too, with Van's air box. XIO-320 (fuel injected engine). I wonder if you could use the bottom of your custom air box to create an ulternate air inlet, using Van's hardwares.
By the way, My mixture control arm is touching the side of the scoop. It turned out that the location of the scoop from Sam James is not symmetrical. I had to cut a hole on the bottom cowl and expand that space, Lots of work. anyway, if I can borrow your wooden mode, I'd appreciate.
Peter
 
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