[Ironflight]

When I was doing an oil change a week or so ago, I discovered that my standard-issue breather hose elbow (from the crankcase fitting to the aluminum tube that runs down the firewall had finally swollen and gotten unacceptably gooey. I tried AE6000 hose (had some sitting here for the RV-3 inverted oil system), but it wouldn?t bend tight enough without kinking. Tom Swearengen from TSFlightlines.com dropped me a note that he might have a solution ? ?? steel-braided hose with a convoluted liner to prevent it from collapsing in a tight turn. I figured that it was that, or go back with another radiator hose that would get gooey again, so we gave it a try. It only took about 9 inches of hose, and I covered the ends with some giant, industrial-strength, adhesive-lined heatshrink, just to dress them a little (and prevent loose, raying stainless wires) ? and it worked great! I don?t know the hose part number, but it I?m pretty happy with it.

Paul

 

[TS Flightlines]

paul--

post a pic of the other side so I can see your tube!! I have a few ideas on these, depending on space.
Tom

When I was doing an oil change a week or so ago, I discovered that my standard-issue breather hose elbow (from the crankcase fitting to the aluminum tube that runs down the firewall had finally swollen and gotten unacceptably gooey. I tried AE6000 hose (had some sitting here for the RV-3 inverted oil system), but it wouldn?t bend tight enough without kinking. Tom Swearengen from TSFlightlines.com dropped me a note that he might have a solution ? ?? steel-braided hose with a convoluted liner to prevent it from collapsing in a tight turn. I figured that it was that, or go back with another radiator hose that would get gooey again, so we gave it a try. It only took about 9 inches of hose, and I covered the ends with some giant, industrial-strength, adhesive-lined heatshrink, just to dress them a little (and prevent loose, raying stainless wires) ? and it worked great! I don?t know the hose part number, but it I?m pretty happy with it.

Paul

 

[Greg Arehart]

Tom,

Let me know what you come up with. I'm looking for something better than the very stiff hose that I have.

greg

 

[TS Flightlines]

greg-

I actually crimp this hose to fittings, but I'm going to devise something that you can attach in the field. I can secure it with stainless bands, like firesleeve bands, and it looks great, just hard to do in the field. The other problem is the NPT fittings in the accessory case. In order to make a nice looking "crimped" assembly, you really need a male NPT swivel; but then you can get alittle bypass leakage from the internal o'ring. Using a AN816-12D would be ok, except not all guys are using the same stuff, and you may not be able to tighten a AN nut on the adapter. So, another custom situation.
Hose clamps work fine for most situations, if like Paul did, you wrap the ends so the stainless braid doesnet ravel.
This hose is very flexible---can be used for alot of applications, and unlike smoothbore teflon, convoluted it true bore sized, so standard hydraulic fitting stems work well.
I'll work on this a bit.
Tom

 

[TroyBranch]

Cold weather flight

In canada we require to punch a hole in the top of that hose just incase the breather hose exit ever froze up. It has happened to many and blows out the front seal. I am sure you know what happens after that. Everyone seams to fly in cold weather some times no matter where they live. Not a bad practice for all aircraft.

 

[F1Boss]

Same here

In canada we require to punch a hole in the top of that hose just incase the breather hose exit ever froze up. It has happened to many and blows out the front seal. I am sure you know what happens after that. Everyone seams to fly in cold weather some times no matter where they live. Not a bad practice for all aircraft.

In the US, we cut a notch in the tube near the exit for the same reason, but we make sure it is in the warm area of the flow. We call 'em whistle slots.

Carry on!
Mark

PS std hose can be used, but you gotta put a spring in the hose to keep it from collapsing. This particular installation looks very sanitary, BTW.

 

[Mike S]

This is probably just a optical delusion, but it sure looks like the new stainless hose is either touching, or close enough to touch the motor mount.

Anti chafe protection ????

 

[TS Flightlines]

mike-

i saw that pic too--might ba an illusion, BUT chafe guard can certainly be done.
Tom

 

[Mike S]

i saw that pic too--might ba an illusion, BUT chafe guard can certainly be done.
Tom

Knowing Paul, I suspect it is got plenty of clearance.

But, just as a caution for folks looking at this thread, who might get the idea to copy the setup, ........well just wanted to make folks aware of the need to protect stuff from SS braided hoses.

 

[Greg Arehart]

If you can find the right size, it would be good to put tygon tubing (plastic stuff from Lowes or similar) over the steel braid for chafe protection. That's what I really like about the Bonaco hoses - Brett encloses them in the tygon for chafe protection.

greg

 

[rocketbob]

Easier way is to get normal blue silicone hose and head down to your local autoparts store and pick up a "Gates Unicoil Stainless Hose Spring". O-Reilly has them. The spring slips over the hose and allows you to bend however you want, and keeps the hose wall from collapsing.

http://www.gates-unicoil.com/

 

[gereed75]

This may offend the sensibilities of some, but

the fitting coming out of the breather is a 1/2" NPT - the same as copper plumbing fittings. I did a copper thread to socket plumbing fitting soldered to a copper 90 degree fitting to get me headed in the right direction very close to the breather outlet. From there on hose to the aluminum tube. Works great.

I'll try to get a picture next cowl removal.

Fly on!

 

[Ironflight]

This is probably just a optical delusion, but it sure looks like the new stainless hose is either touching, or close enough to touch the motor mount.

Trick of the camera angle - there is about a half inch (or more) of clearance between the motor mount and the hose. It was tough to find a place to put the camera where I actually got the hose in frame!

I like the idea of the silicone hose with the coil inside....but the stainless braid does look pretty nice!

Paul

 

[TS Flightlines]

playing with

some stuff to accomodate most everyones taste. 3/4 NPT male swivel to mate to the accessory case, then hose attached to the breather tube exiting at the exhaust. I'll be around a IO-540 (F1 Rocket) tomorrow, so I can do some checking. It will look, and function great. Prototype in works.
Tom

 

[koda2]

AN844-10D

The Lycoming parts manual shows this part for the breather hose opening for the engine I put together.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an844.php

Most of the clones that I have seen pictures of have a straight brass fitting. Cheaper I guess because of the price of the AN fitting.

I ordered one from Spruce but haven't installed it yet. Interestingly, it had a symbol stamped on it but no MS number. Makes you wonder if they are substituting the so-called industrial AN fittings.

Dave A.
6A build

 

[Dan Langhout]

Alternative

Here is an alternative using a fluorocarbon lined formed 90 degree silicone hose. Regular silicone coolant hose has the same problem as other coolant hoses - they don't stand up well to petroleum products.

 

[DanH]

Here's a decent choice for a breather hose or oil drain back or other low-pressure application.

Parker 801 Push-Lok Plus. Likely to be available if you walk in any Parker hose store. Even comes in a few different colors if you want to mail order.

I've flown it as a breather line two years now.

Install your own Parker fittings or just use a good hose clamp. Good hose clamps don't have slots:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=524978&postcount=7

 

[WingsOnWheels]

My O-360 (Purchased Used) came with a 45 degree fitting for the breather. I was just planning to stick with that. Any reason not to?

Not a great picture, but you can see the fitting.

 

[DanH]

My O-360 (Purchased Used) came with a 45 degree fitting for the breather. I was just planning to stick with that. Any reason not to?

There's an argument for keeping the hose angled slightly upward from the breather fitting, in theory allowing an opportunity for some oil mist to drop out of suspension and drain back, thus reducing oil loss. No data.

As a practical matter you do what you must to clear the motor mount tubes.

 

[WingsOnWheels]

That is a good point. If I rotate the fitting CCW a tiny bit the oil should be able to flow back to the engine. The downside of this fitting is that it can't be removed once the engine is mounted. I have to take it off to remove the banjo-type oil-cooler fitting next to the breather. As far as I can tell, to do that I have to take the engine off the mount.

There's an argument for keeping the hose angled slightly upward from the breather fitting, in theory allowing an opportunity for some oil mist to drop out of suspension and drain back, thus reducing oil loss. No data.

As a practical matter you do what you must to clear the motor mount tubes.

 

[HSANTIBANEZ]

before/after

Can you install after the engine is hung?

The Lycoming parts manual shows this part for the breather hose opening for the engine I put together.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an844.php

Most of the clones that I have seen pictures of have a straight brass fitting. Cheaper I guess because of the price of the AN fitting.

I ordered one from Spruce but haven't installed it yet. Interestingly, it had a symbol stamped on it but no MS number. Makes you wonder if they are substituting the so-called industrial AN fittings.

Dave A.
6A build

 

[gasman]

This is an Auto Parts / hardware store item. Yes, you can install the inline one with the engine hung.

 

[scsmith]

right next to the exhaust pipe?

In canada we require to punch a hole in the top of that hose just incase the breather hose exit ever froze up. It has happened to many and blows out the front seal. I am sure you know what happens after that. Everyone seams to fly in cold weather some times no matter where they live. Not a bad practice for all aircraft.

My breather tube exit is within 3/16" of the exhaust pipe, so that oil drips hit the exhaust and burn rather than run back on the belly. With that heat source so close, I can not see a scenario where it could freeze over.

The rest of the breather tube, running down the firewall, is inside the cowling, which is toasty warm, not going to freeze in there.

Has anyone ever had a breather pipe freeze when the exit is right next to the exhaust?