[newt]

I'm a buyer, not a builder, so apologies if this is an obvious dumb question.

One of my fuel drains is stiff/corroded/dirty/whatever, so it needs a lot of force to open and tends to stick. I have a new one from Vans on the way.

If I'm replacing it, is there some kind of thread sealant I should use when I put the new one in? Instinct tells me there should be, otherwise fuel will "wick" through the new thread, but different kinds of instinct also tell me that squeezing sealant into any part of the fuel system is asking for trouble, because you never know where it's going to end up.

Advice appreciated.

- mark

 

[Rosie]

I've had my drain plugs out several times over the years, and I always put Fuel lube on the threads (and have never had a leak). A little goes a long ways so find a friend who has some before you go and buy it (the tube size is more than enough). Gary Sobek gave me some fuel lube in an old small plastic print film canister, and I'm still using it 11 years later (still tacky as the day he gave it to me) Rosie

 

[dmaib]

I have used fuel lube, as well. Works great.

 

[humptybump]

During my conditional inspection, I changed out the elbow to my carburetor. The A&P used a tiny tiny tiny bit of "TiteSeal - light weight".

 

[GeneL]

Sump drains

FYI Saf-Air makes a stainless steel valve to fit RV's Just add SS to the end of the standard valve # (CAV-110 SS). You may have to call Saf-Air direct.

 

[Walt]

I use TightSeal and BakerSeal, both work well.

 

[Ron Lee]

FYI Saf-Air makes a stainless steel valve to fit RV's Just add SS to the end of the standard valve # (CAV-110 SS). You may have to call Saf-Air direct.

Does this eliminate corrosion and make removing the drain easier? Since I may order a spare soon, this option may be mo better.

 

[GeneL]

SS valve

No corrosion, no sticking, even the spring is SS. I got mine from Saf-Air at Sun-N-Fun, $20 each, nice product.