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tomhanaway

Well Known Member
I understand that it's not recommended to repair an installed nut plate with a cutting tap.

Does anyone have a source for 8-32 and 10-32 thread restorers? I have a similar kit for larger automotive work but occasionally need to clean up threads in these sizes.

I'm talking about tap style for internal threads, not files for external threads.

Thanks,
Tom H.
 
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You can use a regular tap, just don't thread it all of the way thru the nutplate. Most taps are tapered and do not cut the full threads for the first part of the tap. Once you have cleaned the threads by this method you need to check the nutplate with a screw to make sure you haven't removed the locking feature.
 
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Tom,
You can use a regular cutting tap... just don't go all the way through with it. Just go in as little as you need to, to clean your threads. You can go surprisingly deep without ruining the nut plate because the steel is relatively springy. If you do go too deep and ruin the properties of the nut plate you can squish it again with a clamp or needle nose vise-grips.

Jerry Esquenazi
RV-8 N84JE flying since 2007
 
I use a roll tap or some times called a forging tap. It's a tap without the cutting flutes. Works great doesn't even remove the locking feature.

FLUTELESS Otherwise known as ?Roll?, ?Forming? or Polygon taps. Used for the chipless production of threads in
ductile materials such as copper, aluminium or soft brass. As the name implies they do not have flutes but lobes, which
contact the work piece to form the thread by extrusion. They are operated at high speeds and are better at maintaining
size. As long as all of the correct operating criteria are met, i.e. speed, hole size and lubrication, they have a longer life
and less breakages than with other types of machine taps. Because they produce no chips they are very suitable for blind
hole tapping.
Fluteless taps require different tapping drill sizes and higher operating speeds than conventional taps, see later. They also
produce stronger threads.

Brian
 
az_gila said:
Usually it's easier to just replace the nutplate...:)
Click to expand...
Agree, until it is the last fastener to be installed and the panel is held down with 20-30 screws. My luck is it is always the last fastener when you find the one that just doesn't want to start.
 
Electricians tools

You can get a single tool at most hardware or building supply stores in the electrical section. Has a screwdriver handle and shaft built like a step drill. Smallest on end is 8-32 and next step up is 10-32. just don't over do the nut plate or you will lose its locking ability.
 
curtis said:
Agree, until it is the last fastener to be installed and the panel is held down with 20-30 screws. My luck is it is always the last fastener when you find the one that just doesn't want to start.
Click to expand...

Murphy's Law in action...:)

Sometimes a second try with Boelube helps get the hard one started.

If it's a slight misalignment problem it could repeat after tapping...:(

Perhaps the panel hole may need enlarging slightly?
 
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