Bob Axsom

Well Known Member
On 8-17-1997 my wife and I riveted the steps in place on both sides of our RV-6A. I just looked at the photo that shows 21 big round head rivets permanently anchoring each one in place. Since I first flew the plane in March of 2004 I have made MANY modifications to increase the speed and some have actually worked. We are not spry young kids anymore and the steps work wonderfully to help us board the aircraft but when I stand back and look at what's left to clean up and buy a little speed it is hard to ignore thos steps. S-o-o-o-o, tonight I thought why not change the installation from riveted permanebt to screw mounted removable? I would have to drill out the pop rivets in the baggage floor, and replace them with a screw and platenut installation. Then drill out all of the step flange mount rivets and replace them with a screw and platenut installation. For a race preparation then, the steps could be removed and a cover plate installed. I know how to do this and I may or may not do it over next winter but I think you folks that are yet to complete the step installation may want to think about this.

Bob Axsom
 
Use wooden step

Bob, my wife couldn't use those steps anyhow because she needs to be even closer to the wing. I use the folding wooden stool from Sporty's and it works very well. Take them off! Just my 2 cents.

While on the subject of speed, did you ever verify a speed gain from opening up the rear bulkhead inside the wheel pants?
 
I have no bulkheads in my fairings

I have no bulkheads in my fairings. I added them, they slowed the plane down. I took them out and the speed was restored.

Bob Axsom
 
My questionable guess is that changing to flush rivet heads will not make any difference. I would also ask if you have made the changes that "may" make huge improvements like the plenum and cowl with round inlets (can't remember the name).
 
The cooling drag possibilities have been worked

The cooling drag possibilities have been worked severely and I did gain 4 kts there but the popular techno talk magic bullets do not produce the kind of automatic improvements you may expect. The super fast airplanes have super power and efficient propellers in addition to cooling drag improvements. I have not gone to the smaller volume hard topped plenum yet and do not plan on it at this time in spite of the popular support for this mod. I have tried several inlet configurations, outlet configurations and internal flow baffles and surface smoothing plates. Many lower cowl baffle configurations slow the plane down, the suface smooting plates did nothing, the inlet changes varied CHT with no change in speed. What worked for me in this area was to build a complex curved baffle from the rear of the engine to the bottom of the plane; add two angled side plates to direct the lower cowl air to the width of the outlet on the curved baffle and finally add two horizontal baffles one each side of the engine just below the lip of the cowl to restrict the cooling air flow to the lower cowl forward of the previously described lower cowl baffling (these last horizontal baffles made it all work together - previously the other baffling had reduced the speed 2 kts and these little beauties brought back the 2 lost and added 4 more). The cowl is essentially isolated to three zones - inlet plenum, lower cowl cooling air flow path and a non-cooling airflow zone outboard of the plenum and aft of the engine forward of the firewall. I have tried many other speed mods that do not involve the engine cooling air as well but the most effective by far is the 3" wing tips you saw at Memphis which added 3 kts over my traveling configuration that includes 9" (each) span adding tip tanks and 12" span adding stock tips. I have made many other mods but the gains were small with the possible exception of the nosewheel subfairing accurate results have been elusive due to windy conditions but it appears to add around 1 kt.

Are we going to see you at Texoma (Sherman, Texas) on the 19th of April?

Bob Axsom
 
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Bob have you thought of removing the steps and then installing bushings in the holes. Modify the step to insert into the bushings and then use a pin to stop the step from rotating. This way you could remove them for racing, then when needed just reinsert them and drop the pin in.
 
Bob,

One local builder installed his step plates on the inside of his plane. The step still sticks out but not that ugly plate. In addition, he didn't install the right side step or stiffener plate on the wing. All in an effort to reduce his weight.

That said, I do like the idea of of removable steps.
 
That is a clever idea

Bob have you thought of removing the steps and then installing bushings in the holes. Modify the step to insert into the bushings and then use a pin to stop the step from rotating. This way you could remove them for racing, then when needed just reinsert them and drop the pin in.

That is a clever idea. It reflects the kind of innovative thinking you see in aircraft assembly especially aftermarket developments in the field. You have given me another approach to consider.

Bob Axsom
 
cooling drag

Bob,

I am very satisfied with my stock RV-4 cowling I think there is little to be gained with an aftermarket cowl. That being said, I think the area aft of the plenum down to the cowl exit area has improvement potential. If you have photos of what you have done in that area would you be willing to post them? If not, you might see me peeking under your cowl at Texoma.

Chris Murphy RACE34
 
Tried to do it

I tried to post the photos but imageshack seems to be bogged down - maybe tonight. The baffling is not visible externally.

Bob Axsom
 
That is a clever idea. It reflects the kind of innovative thinking you see in aircraft assembly especially aftermarket developments in the field. You have given me another approach to consider.

Bob Axsom

Take a look at an RV-10 under construction...this is how the RV-10 step is mounted.
 
Front view

Thanks for the tip Scott. Chris here is the front view and it was taken before I added the two key horizontal baffles. When I did that I hat to extend the top of the side baffles and add rubber so they would seal against the horizontal baffles. Note that the side panels are have a different width dimension. This is because the highest angle from the side of the cowl to the width of the outlet is determined by the stagger of the cylinders (#3 is farther forward than #4 so the panel on that side is wider).

[img=http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2446/dvc00003zt2.th.jpg]

Parts at rear two photos:

[img=http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/248/dvc00001qp3.th.jpg]

[img=http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/7982/dvc00002ou2.th.jpg]

Here is one of the horizontal baffles. Notice that red RTV is used to seal the inboard edge.

[img=http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2460/dvc00007cy3.th.jpg]

Bob Axsom
 
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Bob is there theory behind the interior baffle work you did? I mean the stuff after the cooling air has passed by the cylinders. Do you think there are leaks because you do not have a plenum top? Do you have a theory of why removing the bulkhead in the wheel pant help in speed? As usual my head swims and confusion reins when I think about this stuff. I hope to have some time to speak to you and study your ship at one of the up coming races. I watched but there was no getting to Texas from here this weekend.
 
I had a theory at first

I had a theory based on casual observation that if I could get the cooling air mass to flow smoothly to the outlet and keep it from passing through all of wire, tubes, hoses, engine mounts, and other items between the engine and fire wall there would be less drag and thus more speed. Instead, the plane slowed down 2 kts. I reported my results and Chris Z (Lancair builder, modifier and pilot) told me that he believed what happened is that by cleaning up the flow a greater air mass was allowed to flow through the system and this actually increases the cooling air drag. When I though about it, it made sense to me that something that was happening before the inlets in the original configuration that prevented potential cooling air mass from entering the system was no longer happening and more air was now entering the system. At that point I had been thinking about the horizontal baffles outboard of the engine in the lower cowl and I thought I would go ahead and try it before I pulled everything out. After I did that I got the 6 kt reversal to 4 kts above my baseline speed of 170.7 kts. I rationalized a few things but I do not know why the increase occurred. Certainly the volume in the cowl below the engine was reduced and alternate flow paths (back up outboard of the valve covers and into the area behind the engine and lower cowl baffles primarily) were eliminated. I worked with the inlet size and position and the outlet configuration as well as adding another large baffle below the engine to turn the air back over the filter airbox and nosegear structue but I could never improve on the speed further. Inlet modifications directly effected a rise in CHT indicating a reduction in air mass flow through the fins but there was no measurable increase in speed. A very smooth contoured extension to the lower fwd baffle which went over the nose gear inverted pyramid structure and down to the lip of the outlet was another mod the slowed the plane. I think this was due to the attached airflow being directed down into the airstream below the fuselage just aft of the cowl. I think there may be something to be gained by putting a baffle across rear of the inlets from the center baffle aft of the prop and the stock baffle sidewall; then if the baffles were holed and lined with rubber the inlets could be modified with a duct that extends through the rubber and feed the plenum without leakage backflow. Then pehaps a size could be established that would be more efficient in cooling and reduce drag. At this point I think I just have to pursue the idea until I learn whether it works or not. I also thing the exhaust configuration can be improved on the "A" models but it requires new pipes that go out more in line with the exhaust ports well outboard of the centerline induction air and nose gear systems. The cowl woul have to be modified to provide new exit faired in exit points and the centerline cowl scoop would be brought to a boat tail closure aft of the nose gear strut. I look at all of the new high performance production airplanes and I do not believe it is a coincidence that they all route the exhaust outlets this way.

On the wheel fairing bulkhead failure to increase speed, I think the configuration channeled the air around the tire in a column that exited downward infront of the tires. I think the turbulent conflict there caused drag. When I removed them the speed came back. It could be that more work with the configuration would fix the problem. The new subfairing on the nose gear definitly reduces drag and has caused no operational problems. I do hold the nose off and only land on paved strips but my hunch is this thing would not have a problem on grass.

I did not go to Taylor, Texas this past week either. I had the plane ready to go but my attitude indicator failed on Thursday. We are going to Texoma in Sherman Texas on the 19th - hopefully the weather will be nice.

Bob Axsom
 
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Bob
I am currently using a pressure plenum and I am installing some mods now to see if I can get a better understanding of what is happening in there. Probably mowing the same grass you and others have already done. I have seen where the cooling air behaves differently at different speeds. At criuse settings my number 6 runs a bit hotter but at racing speeds that moves forward where #2 is the hottest. I am also experiencing better cooling by aprox 25 degree on the right bank of cylinders even though my left intake is larger.