A

apatti

Well Known Member
I have had the following problem pop up several times already. I am wondering how others have dealt with it.

The most forward hole in a rib is usually a separate tab on the rib. A couple of times when getting ready to rivet it, I find the tab is bent down slightly and separated from the skin. Obviously, if no other rivets have been installed you can simply remove the rib and bend it up. However, as was the case tonight when doing the left leading edge, I had already installed most if not all of the other rivets. Tonight I mixed up a little Proseal and gooped in between the leading edge and the rib tab and then clecoed it. I am hoping that once the Proseal cures, I can remove the cleco and the tab will remain against the skin while I install the rivet.

How do the rest of you deal with this??

Thanks,
 
Tony,

I think the idea of a little proseal to hold it in place is the best idea yet! I screwed around with mine trying various things I'd rather not admit, but if I were ever to do it again, I'll glue it up first. ~Joe

-4 fuse
N298JS
 
Surround the rivet with something squishy but of moderate durometer like a grommet, with thickness slightly greater than the rivet's protrusion if the tab were flat. The bucking bar must first compress the soft material, thereby pressing the tab against the flange, before forming the shop head, which it will do because the material can compress to expose the rivet. You only need a bit of bucking to fix the tab, then remove the grommet, or whatever, and finish the shop head. Works like a champ.

John Siebold
 
John's idea sounds great. Also, my DAR Gil Alexander also suggested, from a piece of scrap, drill, cleco and rivet just next to the offending tab, another tab that will hold it down in place. Then with a slightly longer rivet, buck or squeeze the bent tab in place. Easier to do (about 5 minutes) than explain! This worked perfect for me in about 3 places in both my wings.
 
problem tabs

You will find a number of occasions were this might be helpful. We used an old o-ring of the right thickness taped to the bucking bar to compress the tab and start bucking the rivet. Once the rivet is started and holding the tab you can flip the o-ring out of the way and complete riveting. This is also helpful in several areas of the fuselage.
 
Udate...

Thanks to all who replied to this thread.

Just a quick follow-up... The Proseal thing worked very well. When I took the cleco out, the tab stayed against the skin. It was simple to rivet after that.
 
Rather than a grommet or O ring, the best thing I have found for these tabs is an "Elastrator Ring". You won't find them at your local hardware store. It is a very flexible rubber ring put at the base of the scrotum (ouch!!) on lambs , calves, etc to castrate them. WARNING. If you get some of these for use on your RV, DO NOT follow the instructions on the can!!
Finley Atherton
Australia
9A Canopy :
 
Last edited:
I use a piece of model airplane fuel tubing. Comes in different sizes, is readily available just about everywhere (even in the California desert where I live), and it's easy to cut to different lengths. I just happened to have some handy when I needed it, and it worked great.
 
Finley Atherton said:
Rather than a grommet, the best thing I have found for these tabs is an "Elastrator Ring". You won't find them at your local hardware store. It is a very flexible rubber ring put at the base of the scrotum (ouch!!) on lambs , calves, etc to castrate them. WARNING. If you get some of these for use on your RV, DO NOT follow the instructions on the can!!
Finley Atherton
Australia
9A Canopy :
Click to expand...

Whoa, when I say whoa, I mean whoa.

Finley my man, not good form to publicly announce you use elastrator rings to build an RV. We'll NEVER hear the end of this if the Rocket flyers learn of this!

Jekyll :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.