RV News That Caught My Eye ….dr
__________________________

Quirky Find …cjs

Tetons on the way back from Oshkosh last year.
https://vansairforce.net/threads/quirky-things-seen-from-the-air-in-your-rv.133725/post-1770820
Screenshot 2024-06-04 at 8.41.06 PM.png



Reminder of the Posting Rules Here …dr
Every so often, I refine the language a little bit to try and better represent what I'm hoping to do with this website - this small business that I have literally bet everything on. Give them a read.
I don’t want anyone to be surprised if your account gets locked down for violating the rules repeatedly. Make sure you familiarize yourself with them, and fully understand that this website is not other social media websites. There are rules, and those rules are enforced. Thanks for playing nice (at least here)…;^)
v/r,
dr



Engine tough to start after annual
...pa38112 reply
My money is on your impulse magneto. It was either not serviced properly, or it was installed/wired incorrectly. Some ignition switches kill the non-impulse magneto until you release the key after starting. If the impulse magneto was installed on the wrong side it will make starting as you describe. The impulse magneto is typically installed on the left side, but being an experimental the wiring could have been set up either way. If your mechanic blindly installed it o the left without verifying that is how the ignition is set-up then that could easily be your problem. Also, How was TDC verified when timing the magnetos? Since the plane is relatively new to you; you can't assume the timing marks are correct on the flywheel. On Experimental's it is not unheard of to have the flywheel installed out of time.

1. Remove the grounding lead from the impulse magneto and see if it starts properly?
2. Remove both magnetos and verify the internal timing.
3. Verify TDC with a dial indicator on the piston.
4. Reinstall the magnetos and re-time/synchronize with a squawk box.

Does your plane have a primer of any type? If so Do Not pump the throttle at all. On a carbureted engine you only need the boost pump if the plane has a solenoid primer. In that case it is used to supply fuel pressure to the primer. The boost pump is there as a back-up to the engine driven fuel pump. The fuel pump only moves fuel from the wings into the carburetor bowl. It has nothing to do with how well the engine runs or starts.

I am very worried that your mechanic thinks it is a carburetor problem. Was it touched during the annual? If not, the guy flat out sucks at troubleshooting. Carburetors don't break on their own. However; you do need to find out why the throttle cable is binding before further flight. Are you sure it is not the friction lock?

It is not hard to over-lubricate a K&N filter. It has happened to all of us and comes with experience. Certified planes come with the filters pre-oiled, so your A&P may have very little experience lubricating them properly. Since you have already run the engine and flown it, the excess oil has been pulled from the filter and is not your problem.

The fuel dripping from the vents is normal for the vent design. It has nothing to do with your hard starting problem. Fuel gets trapped in the bottom of the vent bend and then gets forced out the vent by expansion in the tank.



Air vent …4
Hi all. Just wondering what to do about this vent that the previous owner installed.
It’s in a terrible spot so I’m wondering how to remove and patch/repair. I wanto put my switches and CB on that side panel like this but the vent is going to be in the way
Screenshot 2024-06-05 at 3.59.36 PM.png



Interesting Find …BillL reply
I assume you are talking about the burned area? If so, it is a bit unusual but certainly possible it is burned on intake. If there is a rotator (all engine intakes don't have them) then definitely replace that, also check valve lash with the lifter collapsed to be sure it has not reached the lower limit due to recession (i think not) or cam/follower wear. (more likely) Definitely get a view of the open valve do validate this assumption. If confirmed, then (I would) lap in situ. It is not going to get better. It is leaking. Staking/whacking is unlikely to make an improvement if confirmed as a hot area.

Do let us know what you find. Definitely don't add to the problem with additional flight time. Not really unsafe, except to the wallet.

Is this a high output 340 per chance?
Screenshot 2024-06-05 at 4.01.02 PM.png



Squeezer tolerances/compatibility



Q/A:N Number Reservation to 8050-3 Question
Q: How does the FAA associate a reserved N number with the actual airplane to issue the 8050-3?
A: (Mel) You simply include a note that states that you have the number reserved and request that it be applied to this aircraft.



Looking for women builders to help with AirVenture Workshop …Louise H.
I need a couple more women instructors for the women-only, metal-building workshop on Monday and Tuesday at AirVenture this year. It last less than two hours mid-day. The workshop is a very relaxed, beginner's look at metal-building techniques. I promise, there is more fun and laughter than any other workshop that you've attended at AirVenture! We don't need experts. You just need to be comfortable measuring, marking, drilling, manually de-burring (edges, corners, and holes), and setting pulled rivets. If you are interested, please send me an email (hose ‘at’ drkarst ‘dot’ net) and I will forward further information.
And, if you know a woman (or teenage girl) going to AirVenture who would like to make a cool, aluminum notebook binder, learn some basic skills, and have a lot of fun, please tell them about the workshop. Sheet Metal Workshop space at 11 am on Monday and Tuesday. Show up EARLY! The class typically fills.
Email: hose ‘at’ drkarst ‘dot’ net



OFF TOPIC
:
IMG_4338.JPG

PS: Older issues of the ‘VAF News’ can be found at:
 
Last edited: