RV7ator

Well Known Member
A week-ago thread about the new 715-1 wing tips got into discussing leading edge (Duckworks) vs. Van's new tip light kit that fits the -1 tips. All comparisons were conjecture. Now I have some actuals.

History: Duckworks in my -7 are adequate. But like, horse power, more is better! I substituted a 100 watt halogen bulb for the 55w standard on the right wing, aimed for level attitude/landing. The left is aimed low and toward centerline for taxiing. I happen to have two Duckworks kits on the shelf ready to install in the current project (another -7), when the wing tip thread showed up, and I have the new -1 tips. Decisions, Decisions. I called Van's. Scott said that the tip lamp set-up would be shadowed by the position/strobe unit, and he opined that Duckworks would put more light on the pavement, but given that Van's had two lamps per tip, each 75w and individually aimable, they should be comparable or better, 2 x 55w vs. 4 x 75w as sold.

They aren't.

I ordered a Van's kit to see what it looked like. After examining it, I had questions, and another call to Van's got a different person who said that they have not installed this kit in any aircraft, so do not know how it would work in service. All Van's did was install it in a wing tip in the hangar, thinking that so many builders were rolling their own tip installation, Van's may as well offer something "that works". An interesting side comment was "they're used mostly for identification." Oh, really!?

My examination of the kit raised two concerns: shadowing and strength. Shadowing would come, not just from the strobe/position unit, but also from the face plate mounting the lamps. The lamps are recessed because of the slant of the tip face, yet set directly in line with the oval (again, because of the slant) cutout with a minor dimension equal to the lamp diameter. Should you want to adjust a lamp downward, especially a concern for a tail dragger, it would begin to illuminate the back side of the mounting plate, no longer shinning entirely through the hole. The strength issue is because much of the span-wise tip face is removed, leaving a 1/4" flange around the cutout. That greatly weakens the tip, not fully recovered by the face plate being held in position by a few screws. Not a big issue, though, unless someone pushes on the tip, but it is undeniably weakened.

Stepping out into the pasture with battery, DW, and Van's, this evening produced these observations.

Duckworks uses a driving light (I'm seen the exact units in a car parts store) with a rectangular reflector. Removing the glass diffusor, per DW instructions, and the 55w bulb projects a concentrated oval beam, about 18" x 12" at 8', with no halo. The shape is important because it will be projected at an angle to the ground, so the narrow vertical dimension of the beam won't get smeared over too much ground. Remember, it's designed as a driving light. At dusk, objects 100 yards away are brightly illuminated. Colors are very discernable. Holding the diffuser in place produces - an automotive headlight pattern. Gee. Who'd a'thought.

Van's lamps have a bit of a hot spot in the center, but overall the light is widely dispersed in a round pattern. The outcome is that beyond 25 yards, objects are not brightly illuminated, colors are mushy. Again, this is a 75w lamp. It's added power is spread thin. Two lamps won't add much to what you see.

The whole point is to throw bright light a good distance down the runway. For this a 55w Duckworks blows away a 75w Van's. For taxi, install the DW diffusor on the left side (I did on the -7). Van's would be excellent for taxi; landing, um, you'd get out an expletive before hitting the moose. DW, you'd also be able to go around. Combined with my concern about shadowing of the Van's installation, and the fact they haven't actually flown it, Duckworks gets my money.

John Siebold
Boise, ID
 
Great post John. Have you ever considered upgrading to 100w halogens in the DW like Dan Checkoway did? I wonder how much of an improvement it would be.
 
Seems that I recall that Dan swapped out his 100's for 55's in lieu of less amp pull and not much change in illumination.

I have done similar things on my land based vehicles. The 55 isn't THAT much worse than the 100's.

Light is light is light.

:rolleyes: CJ
 
I disagree. I swapped out my 55Ws for 100s (Available from NAPA) and I think they make a big difference.
 
A bit of thread drift, but I only have one Duckworks light in the left wing of my -6. If I was gonna do this again, I'd have one in each wing.

The one light just doesn't illuminate thing well enough to make me comfortable doing night landings.

KB
 
75 watts

I use 75 watts now. With just my 40A alternator, I don't have as much current headroom as some people. Once I switch from incandescent to LED position lights (probably at the annual condition inspection in March), that will buy me some more headroom. In the meantime, I started using 75 watt H3 lamps, and I didn't notice much difference stepping down from 100W -- other than less current draw.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
 
Too Many Amps

The replies emphasize where Van's lost the bubble with their design. 300 watts requires 21 amps, sure to snap crankshafts. Half of that with superior illumination of the Duckworks, say 100 landing, 55 taxi, tells you that concentrating the light is better than a warm glow about a hemisphere.

Still, old and blind might make testing the alternator's output acceptable for the short time the battery may have to pick up the slack (albeit at a lower voltage). That, though, violates good design practices, and woe to you if you forget to turn off 300w after daytime position use in dense traffic.

Now, if we could get Gretz to offer a pitot heated by integration with hot landing lights, we'd get somewhere!

John Siebold
 
RV7ator said:
...All Van's did was install it in a wing tip in the hangar, thinking that so many builders were rolling their own tip installation, Van's may as well offer something "that works".

I sure hope that isn't true. There are many more useful things they could do rather than redesign the wing tips over and over, and making a wing tip light that has already been offered by another company for at least 2 years. How about making a snorkel that actually fits the IO-360-M1B? (end rant)

Thanks for the helpful info on comparing the lights.
 
'Tis True

Dave,

That's what I was told after pointedly asking about flight testing the light kit. I don't know if Van's deepened the tip light well to facilitate other light installations (hard to imagine) while making the -1 change simplifying tip manufacture, or if they had their tip light set-up in mind from the get-go (likely). For sure, these tips are beautifully formed, far nicer than the Batman tips I got three years ago. The recesses receiving the wing skins and lens are straight, uniform depth, and the inside radii are sharp. Won't require near the fitting previously needed.

John Siebold
 
Comparison of HID vs Halogen

Hi all,

I am scratching my head over the lighting question. Looks like two lamps in each leading edge; one for taxi, one for landing. Does anyone have any experience with Van's HID lamps compared to the halogen ones? Quite a bit more money. Is there a lot more light?

Regards,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wings
San Ramon, CA
 
The new club I just joined has HID "boom beams" installed in all of their planes. WOW are these things great! Its like night and day, I couldn't belive it when I flew it the first time at night. I guess they have a 5000 hour garauntee as well. The main reasons why I don't want any HIDs in my 9a though are cost and the warmup time (ability to wig-wag).

Jeff
 
wiring and circuit breaker size for more powerful lights

I am designing my electrical system now. I notice that Vans sample plan calls for a 10am circuit breaker for both the taxi and landing lights...whereas Bob Nuckolls' Z11 plan specifies a15 amp circuit breaker/fuse. Both specify 14 AWG wiring.

How many watts do the most powerful HID lights draw? Any input on the protection size...10 or 15 amps?

I am considering having one double throw switch "landing-off-taxi" with each of the two lights controlled by a seperate fuse. That way I can easily change the fuse to change the protection size.

Does anyone see a reason not to do this?

Thanks
 
Fuses protect wires

The fuse/CB protects your wire from burning up, not the device itself. Size the wire according to length & resistance & voltage drop requirements for the max current draw you intend to support, and then pick a fuse that protects that size wire.

In other words, plan your wiring around the maximum draw you think you'll end up using. It's not just a matter of changing out the fuse later if the device is changed out for something that draws more current. You need to size the WIRE appropriately.

And just because the lamp is only drawing 7 amps doesn't mean a 15-amp fuse/CB is out of the question. The fuse protects the wire.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
 
Mine will be a do-it-yourself leading edge install. I will mount them similar to the way the Duckworks are mounted. These are Hella FF200 HID's. There isn't anything that compares except other HID's. They are only 35 watts each therefore use very little current.

STUFF%20043.jpg
 
Switching

Tony,

You might consider a progressive-on switch: off-on (taxi)-on (landing). Having everything ablaze is nice for landing. Every bit helps, and you're transitioning into taxi as you roll out. Taxi can be on and landing off so you don't blind others while taxiing.

Which reminds me; I haven't practiced landing without any lights for several years. Time to de-rust.

John Siebold
 
RV_7A said:
Mine will be a do-it-yourself leading edge install. I will mount them similar to the way the Duckworks are mounted. These are Hella FF200 HID's. There isn't anything that compares except other HID's. They are only 35 watts each therefore use very little current.

I thought the term HID was reserved for Xenon lights. Those Hellas look great, but they're halogens. And the specs on this site say they're 55 watts each.
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/hella/ff200.jsp
 
$729.29

The hellas cost $729.29!!! Did I read that right on their website? (expletive here that Doug would not allow)
 
Yepper...

You read it right. I will stick with my Ducks for sure. 55 watt on one side and 75 watt on the other with the Sho-Me wig wag flasher. Proven success!
 
LOL! Yes they are the FF200 HIDs (Xenon) and yes retail they are pricey. But Ebay came through for me on these. I got the pair for $425. You only need one, trust me here. Duck Works kit is pricey too but worth every penny.

-Jeff
 
New RV7 Wingtips w/ lights

Could someone post a picture of the newer (non-batwing) wingtips with lights installed. Particularly, the standard equipment landing lights.

Thanks
Sam
 
HID is the only way to go!!

I used to have the dual 100w bulbs. I installed the Duckworks HID lights in both wings of my RV-4 and to say they are bright is an understatement. Our airstrip has reflectors and no lights. When I turn from base to final it is amazing how they light the place up. My neighbors joke that I need to get them Sun Screen.
 
No doubt about it, HIDs are great, but you can't wig-wag them. Rob lives on an unlit airpark so the tradeoff is no doubt the right one for him, but I sure like the visibility that wig-wag landing lights provide.
 
Someone learned how to wig-wag HID's I saw three Fedex Caravans (Cessna ones... you know 208's) with them tonight. On the other hand, have HID's in the duckworks and wigwag the tip lights... I'm all about throwing six lights out on final...
 
randylervold said:
No doubt about it, HIDs are great, but you can't wig-wag them.

I noticed that CreativAir is now selling a wig-wag flasher that the website says will work with HID lights:

http://www.creativair.com/cva/produ...id=48&osCsid=8cfcc31f3fd3c9277a59729415eba41f

Reading over the install sheet, it looks like what it does is keep both lights on for 5 seconds to let them warm up, then starts flashing. Anybody know enough about the particulars to know if this is adequate protection for those beautiful but pricey bulbs?

mcb (two Duckworks HID lights installed)
 
Regarding the DW light kit and bulbs... just for the heck of it I ordered 100W halogen bulbs, for off road use only, from JC Whitney to fit the socket (H-3) that came with the DW kit. Since I had not installed the kit yet, it was easy to compare relative brightness against a distant wall (about 20 feet) in my home. The 100W was notably brighter (duh!), but I had no scientific way to measure how much. And, as posted above, the patten was "better", in my unscientific opinion during the unscientific test that night, without the diffuser on the light.

Now here is the intesting part, and a bit surprising to me... Using a regulated power supply, the 50W lamp supplied by DW drew about 4.6 amps on the digital meter, the 100W halogen drew a few tenths amp less, about 4.3, or so.

Moral of the unsicentific experiment -- POWER (watts) doesn't really say how much light is emitted. The technology is important in deciding that. Witness, a heated pitot drawing 8 amps -- NO light we hope! :eek: (again, DUH!)

The way I see it, since both type bulbs have approximately the same total POWER = I times E, but the halogen bulb is brighter, the dimmer one while using slightly more current produces more heat (as a part of the power consumed). Does that make sense to you EE fellows and gals?

Please correct my post if I am incorrect or foggy minded about it.

Don Gray
N17QB RV-7A under way
Cortland, OH
 
Here is a picture of the Duckworks HID lights in flight.

Picture from Joe Blank...


Rob Hickman

hidlights1lh.jpg