M

mbetti

Active Member
Looking at sealing my tanks this month sometime. Anybody got a preference on using Flamemaster or Proseal? Also is a quart enough for a RV7 with std tanks?
Mike
 
I ordered the flame master from vans. The quart got everything done except the rear baffles. I ordered two tubes (like caulk) from vans for the rear baffles. I would recommend using the tubes for the rear baffles, you can make a nice bead for the baffle to (kiss).Mine was on an 8 but I'm sure the 7 is the same.
 
mbetti said:
Looking at sealing my tanks this month sometime. Anybody got a preference on using Flamemaster or Proseal? Also is a quart enough for a RV7 with std tanks?
Mike
Click to expand...

I am building new tanks for my 7 and it appears Flamemaster is the way to go. The specs are the same as Proseal and the price is much less. Hope to do the job with one quart and one tube. :)
 
I used one of each up through the tanks.

They both seem to work fine. Proseal is what I used in the military. It smells slightly different and cured a little faster, but as far as sealing the tanks I had no leaks. After riveting but before installing baffles I mixed proseal and toluene to thin then brushed it on every joint. Tested to 1 psi with manometer. A can and 3/4 would have been more than enough on my two 30 gal tanks. If you buy two cans and keep them in a separate refrigerator from your food they will last a long time. I have some left that is over a year old and still works great. I would not use it on my tanks but anything else would be okay. Get at least two boxes of nitrile "Lightning" gloves, MEK and plenty of fresh air.
 
I sealed a set of tanks in my Murphy several years ago with Proseal. I also bought their thinner version of this product, it was kind of red, and brushed all the seams.
Mike
 
I've used Proseal in the past on some various F-15 things and for everything on Gulfstreams. It's good stuff and it can be had with any cure time you could want. I've used stuff that cured so fast it was setting up right after I got it out of the gun for a customer who needed to leave ASAP, and I've used stuff that took two weeks to set up when replacing an entire lower wing plank on a GIV. They make sealant specifically for fuel tanks, as well as stuff for general use. I'ts never let me down, however I have never really tried any of the other brands that I can remember off the top of my head.
 
Does anyone have the pt no. off a can of Flamemaster? I want to order mine from another source that carrys the brushable type too.
Thanks,
Mike
 
mbetti said:
Does anyone have the pt no. off a can of Flamemaster? I want to order mine from another source that carrys the brushable type too.
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...


I think you're looking for CS3204: B4 is the peanut-butter consistency, A2 is the honey consistency.

Actually I think the A/B means thin/thick consistency and the 4/2 is the working time in hours. I

Here are pictures of what I used a few years ago. I used the B4 for the typical areas (between the flange and skin, under the fuel gage sender, etc); and then used the A2 to encapsulate the rivets and other places I wanted it to flow out nicely.

Both cans came from SealPak in Wichita, KS www.sealpakcoinc.com/





 
I mixed Flamemaster from Vans for the first time today to seal and attach the fuel cap receptacles, drains, and a few other parts to the inboard ribs.

Using a gram scale to get the ratio right, 102 grams was used in 3 batches or about 12% of one quart. At that rate I think it will take a bit more than one quart to do both tanks. It sure is messy business. This is my first shot at this process so I am using the stuff liberally, like under the plate nuts not just around them. I am not concerned about cosmetics inside the tank so no MEK wipe down there.
 
David-aviator said:
I am not concerned about cosmetics inside the tank so no MEK wipe down there.
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I wasn't concerned about cosmetics inside the tank either. However, I was concerned with the little pieces coming loose someday and clogging up the fuel line/filter. The stuff sticks well, but...

Fly safe,

-Jim
 
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