A

alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
I'm on my second tank, all the ribs are prosealed in. When I cleco my baffle to the tank skin, I can get either all the top rivet holes to line up in the skin and baffle or all the bottom holes, but not both. The result is that the rivets will sit square and flush in the skin countersinks on either the top or bottom of the tank, but not both. The problem, I think, is that somehow the skin has a tendency to rack slightly while riveting the ribs in. Has anyone else experienced this problem on one or both tanks? If so, any suggestions for how to get ALL of the skin hole/countersinks to line up with ALL the baffle holes on the top AND bottom of the tank?

Thanks.
 
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Same thing

Hey Steve,
I had the same thing going on with my tanks. I didn't build them simultaneously so I figured that I simply hadn't c'sunk the holes on the first one deep enough, or(as Ken Krueger suggested) I hadn't c'sunk them while the skins were clecoed to the baffles. I made sure I had my set-up correct on the second tank and the rivets turned out the same way leading me to believe (as you said) that the tanks tend to skew while riveting the ribs. I'm sure as heck not going to drill out all those Pro-sealed rivets so I've just resigned myself to the fact that I'll be hitting them with a rivet shaver in the future sometime before paint is applied. I know this doesn't tell you much but it should help to let you know that you're not alone. I'm interested myself in seeing what responses this thread generates.

--hawk in Hereford, AZ
 
Tank baffle alignment

Steve,

Here's what I'd try:
- put a block of wood on the floor
- stand the tank on end with one edge of the tank on the block, the other hanging off such that if you push on the other edge from the other end it would put the holes in alignment. (hopefully that makes sense)
- push on the other edge from above (use another block of wood to push against.

If you are able to get things to align this way, when you are ready to rivet, put a few rivets in one side, then do the same thing (have a helper either do the pushing or the squeezing) as you put a few rivets in the other side. Once you have a half dozen rivets on each side you should be set.

Dennis Glaeser
7A - putting the bottom skin on the first wing
(I'll be checking the fit of the baffle when I build the second tank!!)
 
Possible way to avoid the misalignment??

I'm going to be doing my first tank this weekend and the aforementioned possible problematic outcome has me thinking of ways to avoid the problem.

I am thinking that I will try to cleco the baffle in place but offset by half the tank. That should hold everything square while I proseal the other end ribs. When that cures, I'll switch to the other side.

I'll take pics and let you know how it turns out.

-Mike
 
Same thing, but worked out in the end

I had the same problem with both my tanks (very slight misalignment - not enough to prevent to rivets from being inserted, but they were skewed a little). I put proseal on the baffle, began clecoing, and was able to "rack" the 2 sides back into alignment just by grabbing the 2 opposite sides and pulling towards each other (hope that makes sense). I put a rivet in (but didn't set it) every once in a while to check alignment as I continued to cleco until I had a cleco in every hole. And as I went along I think I still had to "rack" it slightly a few times to keep it aligned since the clecos allow a little "slop". But in the end it worked out great - all rivets flush and no leaks.
 
mlw450802 said:
I'm going to be doing my first tank this weekend and the aforementioned possible problematic outcome has me thinking of ways to avoid the problem.

I am thinking that I will try to cleco the baffle in place but offset by half the tank. That should hold everything square while I proseal the other end ribs. When that cures, I'll switch to the other side.

I'll take pics and let you know how it turns out.

-Mike
Click to expand...
That's what I've been thinking I'll do on my "next" RV, Mike. I would think that would help address at least part of the misalignment. Will be interested to hear the results. The other possibility I've considered, but don't think I'd do, was to wait to match drill/countersink the skin and baffle until after the ribs have been riveted in. The disdvantage of this route would be that you would be making any offset or racking permanent.
 
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Steve,

Same thing here, too. When final installing the baffle plate I put clecos in every other hole per the book. Put clecos through the baffle into the Z brackets and ribs. Rivet the top and bottom skins to the baffle. Twist the assembly, if required to get best rivet fit/appearance. Then rivet the Z brackets to the baffle and ribs, "adjusting" the hole size, as required. As long as the skins were drilled/countersunk in assembly with the baffle while they were on the wing spar, all should come out well.

Steve
 
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