If lucky, we eventually reach the age where "aging pilot population" is no longer a theoretical concern. I have two very good friends who now need a little help dragging their airplanes in and out of the hangar, so I started to think about how I could fix the problem. Neither friend is poor. They could buy one of the commercial devices for dragging airplanes, but hey, it looked like a fun design exercise. Could it be done simply and cheap?
Well, here is the result, a classic TLAR if there ever was one.
The basic components are a 3/4" square 16 gauge mild steel frame, two 10" wheels/tire assemblies from Harbor Freight, a DeWalt 1/2" drive corded, reversible, variable speed drill, two bearing blocks, and the gearbox/axle from a snowblower rotor. To adapt the wheels, knock out the cheap bearings, weld in a machined solid steel plug, then drill for a shear bolt through the axle. All weight is carried by the axle, frame and bearing blocks; the gearbox has only torque loads. Total parts cost was a little under $100, plus the new drill at $99.
The drill has a max speed of 1000 RPM. With 10" wheels and 10:1 gearbox ratio, the result is a brisk walk at full throttle. Seems to have plenty of torque starting from rest with a Legend Cub at a little under 850 lbs. For a heavier aircraft like an RV, one might switch to 8" wheels just to reduce motor and gearbox loads. We've tried both. The hard poly 8" wheels can spin and leave black marks on the floor.
I built two. The only difference between them is the method of picking up the tailwheel, as one is a single sided Maule with hubcap, while the other has pins on both sides.
Usual caution; highly experimental. I have no idea if they will hold up long term in service; redneck boys from south Alabama know nothing about the durability of snowblowers. I will report back if they die.
Well, here is the result, a classic TLAR if there ever was one.
The basic components are a 3/4" square 16 gauge mild steel frame, two 10" wheels/tire assemblies from Harbor Freight, a DeWalt 1/2" drive corded, reversible, variable speed drill, two bearing blocks, and the gearbox/axle from a snowblower rotor. To adapt the wheels, knock out the cheap bearings, weld in a machined solid steel plug, then drill for a shear bolt through the axle. All weight is carried by the axle, frame and bearing blocks; the gearbox has only torque loads. Total parts cost was a little under $100, plus the new drill at $99.
The drill has a max speed of 1000 RPM. With 10" wheels and 10:1 gearbox ratio, the result is a brisk walk at full throttle. Seems to have plenty of torque starting from rest with a Legend Cub at a little under 850 lbs. For a heavier aircraft like an RV, one might switch to 8" wheels just to reduce motor and gearbox loads. We've tried both. The hard poly 8" wheels can spin and leave black marks on the floor.
I built two. The only difference between them is the method of picking up the tailwheel, as one is a single sided Maule with hubcap, while the other has pins on both sides.
Usual caution; highly experimental. I have no idea if they will hold up long term in service; redneck boys from south Alabama know nothing about the durability of snowblowers. I will report back if they die.
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