Mike S

Senior Curmudgeon
Today, I helped a buddy install the tail on his 10.

One of the horror stories we have heard repeatedly in the past is all the problems installing the trim cables.

Steve had already mounted the trim unit, so the cables had to be threaded into the stab as it was put on the plane.

I suggested trying an old trick from the R/C model world---------first we slipped a length of plastic tubing, similar to Vans brake line, but larger in dia., into the stab, large enough that the threaded end of the trim cable would fit into it. Let it just hang out both ends. We use some scrap, nothing special. Used a couple of cloths pins to hold tubing in place while we lifted the stab up onto the fuse. The trim cables fit into the plastic tube, and as the stab was worked forward into its position, the trim cables followed the tubing right into the proper location. The plastic tube gets pushed out as the cable goes in.

In reviewing the procedure, I think that installing some guide tubes (large enough for the trim cable to fit through) into the stab as it was being built might be even a better way.

This might require opening up the hole in the front spar a small bit, so a call to Vans is in order.

Put them in permanently, so that if the stab ever has to come off, or a trim cable goes bad and needs to be replaced, the tubing is already there.

And, if you havent riveted the cable end mount ------the welded nut/steel plate thing-----to the cover yet, dont. It is a real pain to try installing the cover with the cable mount installed. It can be done easily if they are separate, and then riveted in place.

Also, the cable mount supplied by Vans is pretty cheesy. There is a service bulletin out on them, I seem to remember. Check out these CNC parts.

http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm

Mike
 
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Good Info!

Thanks for the info Mike!
Mike S said:
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And, if you havent riveted the cable end mount ------the welded nut/steel plate thing-----to the cover yet, dont. It is a real pain to try installing the cover with the cable mount installed. It can be done easily if they are separate, and then riveted in place.
...
Mike
So, how did you guys do it? Were the pieces separate or riveted? If riveted, I'd be curious to know the details since mine are currently riveted and I'd like to avoid drilling them if possible (I have the Rivethead Aero brackets).

Thanks!
 
Installed the Rivethead end, then the cover plate, and pop rivet. Then screw down the plate to the elevator.

Mike
 
Another way??

After letting my poor brain work on this a bit, I have come up with another way to install the cover plate on the cable.

Loosen the jam nuts on the front----servo---end of the cable. Then just twist the cable housing to thread it into the cover plate, instead of trying to thread the cover plate onto the cable.

Last, re-tighten the jam nuts, adjusting the position if necessary.

Mike
 
Exactly what I was thinking!

Mike, thats exactly what I've been thinking for a while now. I guess I figured since noone has ever brought it up (that I know of at least) that it just wasn't possible. Then again, I guess I could've just asked :rolleyes:. I'm glad you brought it up... gives me, and maybe a couple others, some hope!
 
FlyerJumper---------This is only a thought I had, so it has not been tested in practice.

But, I cant think of any reason why it will not work.........

And, when you actually get the trims hooked up, be aware that they are only at the same position when they are at the 35 degree "tab" down position. The two tabs travel through different paths to different destinations when they start moving. Monkey motion at its finest.

And, lastly, pay attention to the terms "nose up/down" and "tab down". The instructions use both, and tab down gives nose up.


Mike
 
Those darn trim cables

Been fighting them for a week. I bought the rivithead CNC retainer nuts. They are very nicely machined, but I should have never rivited them on at this point in the game (Empenage Attach/Fairings). My only disappointment is that I cannot get a lock nut on the Rivithead units. The rivithead guy was very nice in getting back to me on this, but they should really ship with a special thin nut to lock them into position.

What I did was drill the CNC retainer nuts off of the cover plates. Then you can adjust thems to your hearts content by spinning them on the threads and adjusting them as you need to (in order to set the 35 degrees) When you are set to test the 35 degees, just cleco the CNC nuts in place and check the angle. I made a 35 degree cardboard template. Check the angle on the upper edge of the trim tab to the upper angle on the elevators. Adjust and re-cleco. I will attach later with pop rvits which is the way it is done on all the other RV models. Also you can remove the elevators with the cable in the trim tab (use two people for this). It comes out semi-easily which indicates to me that during final assembly you can reverse the process.
This means that you only have to thread the stinker thru 3 holes not 4.

I will run a wire thru the H/S to get the stinker back in during final assembly.
All in all this has been my most frustrating section