Mel,...I also don't share Bill's belief that they will tear away at jettison time. They may come loose, but what kind of "flailing" will they do in the process...
Thanks for the info.
I don't even have the tail kit yet, so the canopy is a long way off.
I already know I want some heavy options (C/S prop, full IFR panel, "golf club" shelf). I aready know I should "build light".
I am just trying to think of every possible item to leave off to save weight and speed up the build. E.g., no primer, no blind rivet phobia, maybe no gas struts. I'm sorely tempted to use an O-235 if it can run auto fuel.
I intend to leave off the standard jettison mechanism completely, perhaps replacing the canopy pivot bolts with some pins for maintenance purposes.
I'm not worried about bailing out. I didn't wear a chute when I had a spam can, so bailing out wasn't an option. I won't be doing any aerobatics, so I figure as long as I can keep the fire hazard to equal or less than a spam can, I'm no worse off. I'll put a canopy knife or similar in the cockpit in case I flip it over on the ground.
For the canopy jettison feature, the skins must be notched. Mine have been notched (notches covered with tape similar to what glider pilots use to cover wing root joints) for 15 years. Never leaked!Will the curved hinges "un hook" from under the fwd skin on an emergency release? The original canopies had simple lugs and a notched fwd skin. (They leaked bad I guess).
For the canopy jettison feature, the skins must be notched. Mine have been notched (notches covered with tape similar to what glider pilots use to cover wing root joints) for 15 years. Never leaked!
Only the VERY early Tip-ups had the straight hinges.
1992 is correct. My original finish kits arrived 3/6/91 with the straight hinges. They were replaced with the "goose neck" hinges several months later.The "goose-neck" canopy hinge (Vans terminology......) was introduced in 1992
I don't recall seeing the cut-away in the plans, but there is a brief explanation in the instructions for making the cut-away at the hinges.
Jonathan, the ability to run auto fuel has to do with the compression ratio, not the engine. There are a lot of O-320's out there running auto fuel and even some of the new, high compression engines now say you can run auto fuel, if it has high enough octane and no alcohol, of course.I'm sorely tempted to use an O-235 if it can run auto fuel.
Gil,The "goose-neck" canopy hinge (Vans terminology......) was introduced in 1992, and the plans now don't even seem to mention or show the "notching option" Mel mentions.
Hello Doug...Anyone want to volunteer a built-up canopy for the test?
Jonathan, the ability to run auto fuel has to do with the compression ratio, not the engine. There are a lot of O-320's out there running auto fuel and even some of the new, high compression engines now say you can run auto fuel, if it has high enough octane and no alcohol, of course.
On the subject of struts... one of our locals designed a lever system so that the struts could be mounted forward of the panel. The struts are mounted down in the fuse (near the pedals), and when the canopy is closed the lever goes over center and the struts actually help hold the canopy closed. It really is slick, and it keeps the canopy rails free of obstructions.
Now before you go thinking "Why on earth would somebody take the time to do that?" In this gentleman's case there is a definate need to keep the canopy rail clear. I'll leave it at that.
I've been meaning to take pictures of it, but I always seem to forget my camera. IIRC, he had to do a bit of engineering for the attach point and he had to order struts of a slightly different length than stock.I think that this is a fantastic idea. It sure would get them completely out of the way and allow obstruction free entry and exit. Also, the added tension in the closed position is another plus. I wonder if there were any negatives to his mod? I like it!!
Tom
jjconstant;201923 I have copied the strut mechanism with his permission and love it. He also recently mentioned that he added a keeper cord from the center of the rollover bar to the center of the canopy because he felt that his geometry wasn't as strong in potentially resisting a tailwind on the open canopy. When I'm next at the airport I'll try to remember to take pictures and post them. Jeremy Constant RV 7A tip up wings went on for the first time![/QUOTE said:Thanks Jeremy. I am glad to hear that this mod has been duplicated, and that you are pleased with it as well. Mine will be built light and with very sparse appointments. So, keeping the areas that you mentioned clear, won't be a problem.
Tom
I have copied the strut mechanism with his permission and love it. [snip]
Jeremy Constant
RV 7A tip up
wings went on for the first time!
Bryan,
Got a part number or length on those struts?
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That's what I thought too... but it seems to have also disappeared from the text in my RV-6 2001 plans update package.
gil A
Chad, also ask for the strut part number................Jeremy,
That's a very helpful video, and I thought it was plenty clear.
Can I (we) ask for two more pictures??? How 'bout one of both of the attach points? One of the idler arm attach, and the other of the base of the strut...
Thanks!!!!!
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