Tim 8-A

Tim 8-A

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Made my first night flight in the 10 last night. The plane did fine me not so much. The instruments are well lit and are on a dimmer so no issues there. I found myself fumbling with the switches. My fuel pump is next to my EFIS switch, :confused: could be a major issue in the pattern if I grab the wrong switch. Wondering what others are doing. Memorizing switch locations? Or have found a good lighting system for just the switch bar. If so what is it?
Thanks for the reply,
Tim
 
On my last one I used breaker switches with lighted rockers. Two green ones for EFISes. Located in 2 rows top of center stack. Always visible. Always know which are on.
 
It might be too late at this stage if the switch location cannot be changed easily or rewired but I can see how those being close to one another could cause an issue. I have grouped my switches in a way that is less of such mistakes, Fuel, Landing light and strobes are together and away from other switches. Flap is right above throttle so I can operate both with hand on throttle and Avionics which operates all avionics is away and next to master.
 
Pucture

Show us a picture of your panel so we can give idea.
I had a led light strip for my rv-7 but the switch bar was a little recess so i was able to stick the led light strip.
On my 10 i have put switch cap blue on my landing light and red on fuel pump. It just give a different feeling on those switch.
 
I would generally recommend grouping them differenty, but if that is not an option, you can add an extension occaisioanlly, even a piece of surgical tubing to the critical one so you can feel it. Depending on the type switch, you can often purchase colored covers, and one of these in the right place can make a difference. Alternately, you could replace the critical switch with a different style that you can tell by touch.

Last resort, blind cockpit practice, sometimes leave you with counting, but you need to have that confidence.
 
If the EFIS switch is an "emergency only" use, then perhaps a switch guard on that switch would help?

SpaceShuttleSwitchGuard.jpg
 
Here is what I have to work with, can the light strips be cut? if I mounted a strip on the bottom of the G3X and 10a would it give off enough light to help without blinding me.
 
I can't think of any reason to have an EFIS on a switch. Why would you want to turn it off? A pullable breaker, maybe, for saving ship's battery when troubleshooting other systems on the ground but a switch? No way.

In general, I subscribe to the philosophy that switches should be grouped by funtion. All lights in one place, all electrical systems switches (bus contactors, alternators) in another, ignitions / engine in another. This layout eliminates exactly the kind of problem listed by the OP.
 
Noah said:
I can't think of any reason to have an EFIS on a switch. Why would you want to turn it off? A pullable breaker, maybe, for saving ship's battery when troubleshooting other systems on the ground but a switch? No way.

In general, I subscribe to the philosophy that switches should be grouped by funtion. All lights in one place, all electrical systems switches (bus contactors, alternators) in another, ignitions / engine in another. This layout eliminates exactly the kind of problem listed by the OP.
Click to expand...

Not as bad as it sounds, the Dynon (10A and Engine monitor) are on the master and can serve as the EFIS. The G3X was added during a panel upgrade and I like the ability to switch it off. The switches are grouped together and if I had to do it again I would have spaced them further apart.
I don't want to redesign the panel, just add lights.
 
I used EL wire to illuminate my recessed switch panel. Tucked it up under the main panel edge with some clear RTV. Not super bright, but does the job. Just Google "car EL wire kit". Mine works fine with a dimmer also and no EMI issues with the inverter. Cheap too.
 
LED

Tim,
I put a small adjustable LED light on the canopy deck to the left of the panel that could be aimed at the row of switches. It works really well. I too have a strip of LED's under the glare shield and don't use them at all. When I turned them up bright enough to see the switches it was entirely too bright.

On the same note, I have a light that indicates the boost pump is on directly above my D-100 and neglected to put a dimmer on it thinking that it wouldn't be a problem. ;) I have to now put it on a dimmer.
 
Post light

You could put one blue post light near the area bottom right of the master and turned toward the switches.
 
Now we have seen the panel.

Perhaps an EL strip with a reverse engraved overlay that lets the light through the letters only?
 
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