wirejock

wirejock

Well Known Member
If this needs to go to the "Paint" forum, feel free to move it.
I also contacted SW and downloaded the data sheets. They are sending a color swatch package and I have a call in to their tech rep for question #1.
I searched and read most if not all the threads on Jetflex but still have a few questions.

1. Has anyone sprayed it on bare aluminum? How did it work out? The idea is weight and labor savings. I know, it's an expensive airplane and should be treated as such but if it sticks well on bare aluminum, why not save the weight.
2. Anyone use a DeVilbiss FLG? What tip size? Gun settings? The product sheet says 40-65 psi for a smooth finish. The gun runs about 23 psi for best results. What did you use?
3. Someone on VAF posted a photo of their interior with the rivets painted a contrasting color. It looks great. How is it done? Photos?

Follow up
Sal Gomez with Sherwin Williams called. He recommended the solvent based Jetflex with a light primer coat.
Feel free to comment on the solvent based Jetflex regarding the questions above as well.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Larry, we're so close together in the build process it's almost scary. I'm looking at interior paint right now too. I was leaning toward JetFlex WR, but so far nearly everything I see is telling me to go with solvent based instead. I just need to decide what color to paint the interior.

I'm going to use the interior for my first use of PreKote instead of etch & alodine. I have plenty of chemicals here, but it's a monumental PITA to use that stuff. If the PreKote works well, I won't miss the metal prep & alodine.
 
WR

I did my interior with Jetflex WR. In places where it doesn't get touched, rubbed, etc it is fine. In places where it gets bumped by seat belts or the side rails of the fuse where you bump or rub against it getting in and out of the airplane the paint is gone.

2 of the builders in the hangar with me went with the 2 part epoxy paint on the interior and I wish I had done the same.

In my airplane some of the areas were sprayed over Van's QB wash primer. Some of the areas were painted over rattle can self etching primer (NAPA) and results seem to be the same.

Andy
 
Interior

DaleB said:
Larry, we're so close together in the build process it's almost scary. I'm looking at interior paint right now too. I was leaning toward JetFlex WR, but so far nearly everything I see is telling me to go with solvent based instead. I just need to decide what color to paint the interior.

I'm going to use the interior for my first use of PreKote instead of etch & alodine. I have plenty of chemicals here, but it's a monumental PITA to use that stuff. If the PreKote works well, I won't miss the metal prep & alodine.
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No worries Dale you're still in the lead.
That way you'll have some good advise.:D
I dorked up two J-stiffeners and the F-712 bulkhead.
I'm doing research. My aft fuse isn't riveted yet.
Sal Gomez was very helpful. (316) 841-0762
I will probably go with the solvent based Jetflex and primer.
My skins are primed with P60G2. No alodine. The fewer chemicals, the better.
I also use a product SW recommends for cleaning. AeroGreen 4110.
 
wirejock said:
...
2. Anyone use a DeVilbiss FLG? What tip size? Gun settings? The product sheet says 40-65 psi for a smooth finish. The gun runs about 23 psi for best results. What did you use?
....
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The FLG can be used in both conventional and HVLP modes depending on the air cap -

http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/Support/Literature.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=863

The 23 psi number should be the HVLP mode - the 40 psi number should be with the conventional spray cap

I only have the HVLP option for mine.


I also found that the JetFlex WR sprays better with a 10% addition of water - YMMV
 
Solvent based

xblueh2o said:
If you want any sort of durability the top coat needs to be applied over a primer.
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Thanks
After talking with Sal and a few others, I think the plan is to shoot a thin coat of Jetflex primer followed by Jetflex solvent based top coat.
Keep the ideas flowing.
 
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