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carl nank

Well Known Member
I have the Superior IO-360 and just installed the new replacement front draft sump. I installed the exhaust from Larry Vetterman. When I went to install the heat muff on the #1 exhaust pipe, it would not fit due to the exhaust pipe is only 1/8" from the #1 air intake pipe where the flex hose atttaches to the pipe & sump). Therfore no room to install the heat muff,

I have discussed with Larry Vetterman and Rick (the heat muff guy) and they do not have an answer to the problem.

What have you that have already installed the new sump learned from this. Your help is appreciated.
 
Carl,
My baffle kit may be different from yours (it is a fairly new Vans product). It uses air off the aft baffle behind #3 cylinder. The muff supplied by Larry would not work, and I doubt it would work even using the front ramp of # 1. My routing is from the aft baffle around the engine to the muff inlet near the cylinder head of # 1. The exit from the muff comes back (reverse angle) allowing a 2" scat tube to go inside the induction tubes to the cabin heat valve. This installation gave nice clearance away from the # 3 exhaust pipe. It's tight inside the induction tubes, but thankfully I have a hard stainless prop oil line which gives some additional clearance. Here are some pics. Rick custom made the muff based on a drawing I made. He does really nice work and I emailed him some pictures of the install when it was complete. If this would work for you I'm sure Rick could reproduce the muff.





 
Carl,
I reread your post and realize that you have a retrofit on the sump. Mine is a new install. I'm not sure if there is a difference with the exhaust. You can use your muff and test fit and see if what I did would work. This picture shows the original muff fitting. You can see that it is clocked about 180 degrees at the outlet away from where it needs to be. I used the relationship of the scat tube to the muff to draw my picture. I really like the air coming off the aft baffle, and the reverse angle should slow down the air a bit to help with heating.
I'll be away until the end of April and probably won't have internet access.

Rocky

 
Heat muff/tubing routing - is there a neat solution?

I just spent a very frustrating day trying to sort out this installlation. I have a Superior IO-360 witht the metal cold air sump, what I think is the new baffle kit, and a Vetterman exhaust. The heat muff has the inlet and the outlet clocked 90degrees with the outlet leading. The fit for the scat tube from the muff to the cabin valve is VERY tight if you lead it over the inlet manifold pipes - in fact ust the process of fitting and refitting wore a small hole in the tube because it kept catching one of the nuts on the sump. I think the risk of multiple holes because of the tight interference must be very high. It just llooks all wrong to me. It would look better if the inlet/outlet were clocked 135 or 180 degrees. I've seen the suggestion of using the outlet behind cylinder number 3 below - altho it obviously works, it leaves scat tubing draped all over.

Has anyone got an installation they are really happy with using these components? Do Vans - (or is it actually Rick?? ) - do muffs with differing orentations of the inlet and outllet?

Some related threads are:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=29218&
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=27299&
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=27492&

Thanks

Chris
 
I'm happy so far...

I have the new Superior sump, Vetterman exhaust and the old bafflekit (bought from Vans in 2006)

I was able to put two of Vans heatmuff's together (one slides over another) and increase the total length by 1/3.

The main reason was to have more heat avaiable. (It's needed in the cold Norway...)
It also allows me to easily turn the in- and outlets around so the tuberouting will be easier.

I had to install longer treaded rods (bought from a local hardware store) and I also installed an addtional hoseclamp below the muff. This clamp is mounted directly on the exhaust tube and can be seen below the lower clamp on the muff.

This clamp prevents the muff to slide downwards (schould it ever become loose) where it could possibly block the throttlearm from moving. To have a throttlearm stuck in idle sure would've ruined my day.... :)

The tube going out form the muff is routed inboard of the intaketubes for cyl # 1 and 3 and into the valve on the FF.

I've only flown this plane since this summer, and so far only a few times with temps below freezing. My experience with the effectiveness of the long muff is therefore very limited, but so far it seems to work well.





PS: these two pics are taken during construction but the muff looks the same now...
 
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Exhaust & heat muff

Exhaust:

The newest Superior cold sump will not work with the standard Vetterman exhaust. I returned it to Van's and they replaced it with the new Vetterman exhaust with "superior" in the part number. I returned it to Van's and they replaced it. Had to pay the increase in cost but I expected that. Note: the new exhaust was bigger in circumference so the old stand off's also had to be replaced.

Heat muff:

I absolutly did not have room to place my heater hose between the intake pipes due to having run my prop govenor line there instead, I ran my heater hose outside of the exhaust pipes. Rick will trade you a new muff that is clocked different to accomodate this installation.
 
Carl

I have replaced my ryton plastic sump with the new metal one and it took a bit of work but my heater muff is in the same location as Alf's (picture in post #5). My air comes off the ramp ahead of cylinder #2
I had to fit a 45 degree fitting on sump above the snifle valve to keep it clear of the exhaust.

Peter
 
helpful photos

Alf, really helpful pictures, also showing how you secured the wire to the starter. In the second picure it looks like you have the oil feed for the c/speed prop - is it the standard line from superior or is it something more special? I can't see it in the first picture. Also it looks like your fuel feed goes to the bottom of the fuel servo whereas mine is on top? Just curious as I think some of these small variations can have major knock-effects.

We now have the muff fitted, with the outlet hose going OVER the first inlet manifold pipe and UNDER the second. Its still a tight fit but the secret was to reroute the c/s oil feed a bit to reduce interference in the front most section. If I add a couple of clips to secure the wire to the starter it will all be fine, I think.

On to the next challenge....

Thanks as ever for the help.

Chris
 
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