J

judoka5051

Well Known Member
Hey guys n gals,

I can't get the stinger out of the socket! Right now it's sitting at the hangar with a contraption on the tail that's applying a bunch of traction on the rod trying to get it out. I'll tell you what I've tried so far.

After removing the retaining bolt, I used my rip roaring rivet gun on the yoke fitting and tried to drive it out... no go. Then my son came up with an ingenious idea. I took a 1" pipe and slid it over the stinger so it butts against the socket tube, and extends past the stinger end. The pipe has slots to allow a bolt to go through the stinger tail end (drilled to 1/4). Then 2 "C" clamps against the end of the pipe and pulling on the bolt in the stinger. They are pulling on the stinger pretty hard,,, didn't budge. Even added some encouragement with the rivet gun and lots of oil, still stuck!

Any ideas?

For those that wonder why... Worn bushing, worn out bearings, stinger rotated 4 degrees.

Thanks, Lance
 
Will do!

Should have thought to take pics, but since it wasn't working.... I'll get a few when I'm out there next.
 
If you are talking about the tailwheel spring, I would try to get it to turn some so to get it to turn as you try to pull it out???? If you are talking about the tailwheel assembly itself the same might apply.

Larry
 
If you didn't have to worry about paint, I'd tell you to load up a pump oiler with a 50/50 mix of acetone & old style ATF. If it will free up 50 year old tractor parts, it should work on a tailspring socket.
 
Might suggest applying heat to the socket with a heat gun for 30 minutes or more, then putting ice (or better yet dry ice) on the stinger while quickly trying to hit it out with a rivet gun (3X or better) or a BFH. Twisting sometimes helps also.

The heat/cold will create differential thermal expansion of the parts and often break them loose.

Nothing wrong with trying the suggested lube with the heat application.
 
Get a big CO2 fire extinguisher and freeze the weldment with that and then immediately try twisting the stinger out.
 
This does not sound good. Florida - - corrosion in the tube?

Prior to replacing the whole assembly, might try Kroil, and grab the stinger with a few pair of vice grips and twist back an forth. If it moves even a tiny bit, don't force it beyond its travel. Add more Kroil and keep cycling until it is loose.

My experience in these corroded things is just brute force might work, but it will take a lot. - Using the pipe against the tube is good, but a fine threaded tool to pull is required. Like a sleeve, or thread the end (ha!) or weld a fine thread 5/8 bolt on there and tighten the nut against the tube extended by a sleeve of pipe. Use washers on both ends to ensure a good contact area. Low probability of success.

Even if you get it out, the inside will be corroded. You might just go ahead and order a new tube, rear fuse bulkhead, etc. All the rivets can be squeezed, right?

Good luck, and reassemble with cavity wax from a auto body supply to avoid such hazards in the future.
 
Try the mix RV7charlie mentioned. I learned about this 30 year ago from a big rig mechanic and this stuff works better than anything I have ever tried when it comes to freeing up rusted parts.
 
Stuck parts

Some of the old jeep and off-road guys I know swear by PB Blaster as a penetrating oil.

Don Broussard

RV 9 rebuild in progress

N14DB reserved
 
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