sritchie

Well Known Member
Hey all,

First post here from a new RV10 builder! I'm adding static wicks to my control surface trailing edges, as described by Mouser (http://mouser.org/projects/rv-10/staticwicks.html) and others. I just wanted to gut-check something here on the forum. What the ****, it's also an excuse to get my first post up.

When mounting these nut plates for static wick attachments, is it important to strip away the primer between the nut plate and the rudder spar where I'm attaching it? I know you have to do this for a bonding stud to get conductivity. Feels like the same requirement must apply for these static wick nutplate attachments.

OR, it might be the case that the rivet itself provides enough conductivity so that I don't have to worry about this.

Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome to VAF!

Hey all,

First post here from a new RV10 builder!

Sam,
welcome.gif
aboard the good ship VAF.

Good to see another 10 guy :D
 
Started to... then did not complete

I started to follow Mouser's installation of static wicks. Have the nutplates all installed in rudder and elevators. Then started talking to others, and seeing other 10's at Oshkosh. Did not see a single 10 at Oshkosh that had any static wicks installed. Now been flying mine a year, including IFR in rain and clouds and have not had any problems with static on radio or anything else electrical that I have detected.

My next RV I won't bother with the nutplates. Not saying there might not be benefits, but don't seem necessary.
 
Static wicks seem to be a solution in search of a problem now that Loran has gone away. You might reconsider the need before going forward with installation.
 
Also remember that with static wicks you need to rebalance the controls. Its not the weight is a big deal but they do effect the surface.

The other item. Any point on your aircraft is potiential discharge site. the more pointed the more likely for a discharge.

I have been in several aircraft that have had lighteneing strikes and in all cases there was damage to the aircraft.
On our Challenger it split the winglets down 8 inches from the top and made holes on the back side of the flap control covers. This is being 25 miles from a cell and having the lighteneing go across our windscreen. Had no idea we were hit.

Your more likely to see static halo around your prop anad the static builds up if you elect to fly in highly charged air. A long time ago while flying freight in a Beech 18 the props would litterly glow and St. Elmo would dance on the windscreen.


Jack
 
I started to follow Mouser's installation of static wicks. Have the nutplates all installed in rudder and elevators. Then started talking to others, and seeing other 10's at Oshkosh. Did not see a single 10 at Oshkosh that had any static wicks installed. Now been flying mine a year, including IFR in rain and clouds and have not had any problems with static on radio or anything else electrical that I have detected.

My next RV I won't bother with the nutplates. Not saying there might not be benefits, but don't seem necessary.

Okay, reading more about what systems static wicks help with, and GPS's immunity to this problem, it sounds like I should skip the mod.

Did you install the bonding straps as well? That seems like an easy mod, and I can see at least connecting the control surfaces to the rest of the body as a good thing to do. Or is this unnecessary as well?
 
Static wicks seem to be a solution in search of a problem now that Loran has gone away. You might reconsider the need before going forward with installation.

Yeah, as I research more I'm less stoked on the installation. Same thoughts on bonding straps, or is the grounding still worthwhile?
 
Static wicks seem to be a solution in search of a problem now that Loran has gone away. You might reconsider the need before going forward with installation.

I came to this same conclusion, walking the Airventure line-up of RVs and talking with their owners..
 
Good luck with your 10, it is a great airplane.
I would be very surprised if you found anyone on this forum with static wicks
on their RV.

Same thoughts on bonding straps, or is the grounding still worthwhile?
Not sure what you are referring to here. If you are talking about bonding engine to airframe, yes of course.
Any other place, follow the plans and as I recall there are no bonding straps
anywhere except in the engine compartment.
 
Not sure what you are referring to here. If you are talking about bonding engine to airframe, yes of course.
Any other place, follow the plans and as I recall there are no bonding straps
anywhere except in the engine compartment.

I was referring to the braided wire some folks are using to attach the control surfaces to the main airframe. This turned up during research on static wicks, but I remember seeing recommendations to install these alone even if you skip the static wicks.

Example installation: http://rv10.mirimar.org/?p=540

Definitely excited for the 10! The forum's amazing. I'm fighting my tendency to add stuff to the plans; I'm only curious about the bonding straps now because it seems like it'll be an easy installation now, needed or not, and a pain later. Could be a case of death by a thousand cuts.
 
You are right!

Definitely excited for the 10! The forum's amazing.

BUT, it can also be a detractor and fuel your tendency to add unnecessary
stuff and weight to your airplane. It is a forum and everyone has an opinion including me.
Your stated "tendency" will be the single most expensive and time consuming
obstacle to finishing your RV-10.
Glad you asked early, because we are all here to help:)
Now get started already and forget those bonding straps.
 
Yeah, as I research more I'm less stoked on the installation. Same thoughts on bonding straps, or is the grounding still worthwhile?

I skipped the bonding straps as well. Not called for in plans, and very few (none I saw at OSH) that use them. Did put some of the nutplates in for them, but never made the bonding staps