Paris12Man

Paris12Man

Well Known Member
Hello all.....I'm having difficulty in getting my stall horn to make a sound. I've checked the ground at the switch and it is good. I've checked the power through the aircraft at the switch and it is good. Before installing the wings, I checked the continuity of the switch and it is good. I'm at a loss at this point. I am testing the stall horn by having the master switch on and I'm listening using my headset and I raise the "stall warning vane" and nothing! Does the Dynon computer get involved here? Does the Dynon have to sense airspeed or something, or should it just work on the ground.

I know there is a POT switch on the back of the switch panel for the stall horn, so maybe the Dynon does get involved......:confused:

Any help and/or suggestions in getting my stall horn to make a sound is appreciated.

Steve
 
Hey Steve - -

Just a suggestion. I think the most problems have been at the mechanical contacts. You might try bending the contact out a little and see if that solves it. If you checked continuity with the wing off and the switch activated, then I'd move to the contacts. As I recall, on the one page of the right side of the Dynon display, it will tell you if the switch is activated. Would take a helper, or tape the tab up, but I think it tells if it has been activated.

John Bender
 
Dynon lable

John, I also noticed on the Dynon the lable "STAL" with a small circle next to it. I can't find any mention of this lable anywhere in the Dynon's installation or user manuals. I'm thinking it would be the same as the "Spar" pins alarm. The small circle next to Spar is green when all is well and red when there is a problem. Is this your thoughts also?
 
Same problem

I had the same problem and spent 2 days discovering that the mechanical contacts at the wing root weren't making contact. The wing skin hangs over the inside edge of the inboard rib by about 1/4" and the contact fingers are factory bent out about 1/8". Bend the fingers out on both the wing and fuselage side and see if that doesn't solve the problem.

Wayne N143WM
 
Hey Steve - -

That is the one. It should change on the display depending upon if the tab is up or down. As another has also said, the mechanical tabs are the most likely problem.

John Bender
 
Thank you

Thank you all for the suggestions and ideas. Tomorrow I will once again pull the wings and work on the connection points. Steve
 
Steve - see this entry in my blog for my solution to the poor conact problem. Note that in addition to the foam behind the contacts I also added an extra rivet to prevent deflection of the little panel, and used a conductive paste on the contacts to prevent future corrosion.John
 
make sure the volume is turned up enough to hear it. There is a little potentiometer on the back of the electrical module that controls the volume of the warning sound. (For flying, I suggest putting it at the lowest volume possible)
 
Blog

John, I read your blog and saw the pictures of your fix. Since I'm going EAB, I'm going to hard-wire the electrical connections. I never plan on removing the wings (except to paint) and I have made 20 inch wires with a female spade connector on one end (for the fuselage pin) and a ring connector on the other (connects under the head of the screw on the wing). I can easily remove the wires by sliding the spade connector off the pins when needed during wing removal. This should remove any electrical connections issues with the wings. Thanks for the suggestions. Steve
 
Volumn

Thanks Gary for the suggestion. I saw the POT today while I was adjusting the trim speed and I will adjust the stall horn volumn before putting everything back together. The adjustment to the trim POT was counter-clockwise to speed the motor up....I'm assuming the adjustment to the stall horn POT to reduce the volumn is counter-clockwise also? Steve
 
bending the lugs

Having done this myself to resolve lighting problems, please be aware that you do not have to remove the wings completely to adjust these. I pulled the wing out just far enough to be able to access the lugs, such that the white plastic guide block above the spar was still preventing the wing from falling (still wise to have someone hold the end of the wing or place a support under the end just in case). Much quicker than completely pulling the wings!

I have not added foam like John but did use dielectric paste and since doing this, have had no further problems.

Jeff
 
Jeff, thanks for the suggestion. I've done that exact method a couple of times already trying to resolve this electrical issue. I'm just fed up with the connection method Van's has designed. I wonder how many people of the 500+ kits sold are really going to remove their wings each time they fly. Maybe they will redesign the electrical connection and offer a good connector which comes apart when needed to remove the wings. Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.