Bob Axsom

Well Known Member
On the older kits Van's used to provide Stainless Steel tape (NOT ALUMINUM)for the leading edge of the flaps where they contact the underside of the wing skin. Then the plane was painted the painter removed it to paint and I provided him with more to replace it. Well the installation is difficult and the job was not quite right so I redid it (the cuts are healing slowly). This time I use 3.5 inch wide tape and extended it from the fully retracted wing skin coverage line forward around the leading edge of the flap giving it a sharp crease aroind the flap skin edge. On the two ends of the flaps the old tape had a tendency to come loose at the corners so this time I extended the tape beyond the end of the flaps (spanwise), made several spanwise cuts in the overhanging ends, applied weatherstrip adhesive to the undersid of the flap skin in these areas and folded the "tabs" under the skin and into the adhesive. There has been no more tendency for the corners to cone loose and curl up.

Bob Axsom
 
Any tips on the installation and what steps you followed to get the tape to lay smooth and straight? I'm just about to this step on my Rocket and I've held off doing it because of the difficulties.

BTW, I used UHMV tape on the underside of the wing skin on my RV-6 and was not real happy with that. Eventually, bits of sand and dirt got into the edge of the plastic and caused scratches. I'm hoping the stainless will work out okay.
 
Just be extremely careful and buy extra material

It is a fairly difficult task. I applied both the stainless steel and the plastic tape as you are doing for the same reason. The painted surface will eventually get scratches if you don't. The plastic tape installation on the underside of the wing skin is easy and needs no description.

I marked the wing skin trailing edges on the flaps with the flaps in on full up position. I disconnected the flap linkage and lowered the freed flaps so that the curled leading edge was completely clear of the wing skin. I carefully pealed back one end of the adhesive cover paper and applied one end of the exposed trailing edge of the SS tape on the forward side of the wing skin coverage line. Then I progressively worked down the entire span of the flap applying only the trailing edge of the tape to the flap being extremely careful not to apply any side tension on the tape to force alignment with the wing skin coverage line - if you do the SS tape will kink and you will get a wrinkle that is not removable. Perfect natural alignment is required for a perfect job. If you try to get full chordwise adhesion at any point tension will be unevenly applied to the SS tape and again you will get wrinkles. Wrinkles cannot be removed but they can be reduced to a functional level with an icecream stick - they just look bad. After the SS tape trailing edge is completely attached I carefully smoothed spanwise segments into adhesive contact with the flap working in chordwise increments begining aft and worked my way to the leading edge of the flap skin (one spanwise segment at a time until the final one is pressed into contact along the full leading edge of the flap).

In this final installation, to restore it to the quality I had before paint, I used 3.5 inch SS tape and folded it sharply around the leading edge of the flap skin and onto the underside for a good grip (note: This is where you can get cut bad if you think you can run your fingers along the edge to press the tape in place in one long fluid motion - the fluid motion will produce significant blood flow - it is better to press each point down to achieve full contact at this edge). I also made the SS tape longer that the flap span and cut spanwise notches in the short overhang at both ends of the flaps. I folded them around the ends of the flap skins and onto weather strip adhesive on the underside of the flap skins at the inboard and outboard ends. They look great, there is no corner curl-up and the paint is totally protected.

A couple of things I learned are - 1) They are not kidding when they say the edges of the SS tape are extremely sharp (think razor blade edges - I have multiple cuts - some deep) and 2) if you lift the tape and try to reattach it something happens to the adhesive and it will never stick properly again. My painter did not cover the full moving interface with his attempt to re-apply SS tape and one had a couple of wrinkles. My own right flap SS tape application went well but the left one had to be redone four times before it was acceptable.

I hope this is helpful,

Bob Axsom
 
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Thanks Bob, I'll give it a shot. I always have the plastic stuff if the SS doesn't work out. Thanks for the detailed description.
 
Hey Guys,

Where can you get the stainless steel tape now that Steinair has stopped selling it?
Cheers, Pete
 
I went on the web and did a search for Stainless Steel Tape

I went on the web and did a search for stainless steel tape and found a company in New York called Valley...(something) that sold it. I believe they said they were the only supplier and they do not work with real small orders. When I bought mine they had a minimum order size of $100. I bought several sizes (starting at 3" and increasing in 0.5" increments) to make up a $100 order. I posted the information in the old Q & A section of Vansairforce.net and another fellow said he could buy small quantities at a local store (he may have said J C Whitney). I just repeated my old Google search and www.valleyindustrialtapes.com website was identified but when I tried to go there to recheck the site was unavailable. JC Whitney also came up so I tried it and they advertise it available on line in small quantities. ZX123578Y is a 10ft. roll of 3" wide stainless steel tape (the size that Van used to supply) for less than $11. That is as far as I went with it but a few things you should be aware of : 1) The J C Whitney online catalog add for stainless steel tape contains a small copy of the "Valley..." logo, 2) the original roll I got from Van's was marked "J C Whitney", 3) Van's stated when they switched to plastic that the stainless steel tape was no longer available from their source, 4) The JC Whitney on-line catalog page for stainless steel tape says they have it in several sizes and shipping is free through April 13. My conclusion is adhesive backed stainless steel tape may be in short supply and if you are thinking of using it, you should probably follow-up on the J C Whitney source fairly soon.

Bob Axsom
 
I also did a web serach and found a company in Illinois who sold me a single roll of 3" wide tape (the largest they had) for about $60.
 
I used UHMW (not sure which order those letters go in) tape. It's made of the same stuff as the UMHW blocks we used in various parts of our planes. I placed it on the underside of the upper wing skin where the flap contacts it. I don't know if it would scratch paint or not but it isn't scratching the aluminum.
 
svanarts said:
I used UHMW (not sure which order those letters go in) tape. It's made of the same stuff as the UMHW blocks we used in various parts of our planes. I placed it on the underside of the upper wing skin where the flap contacts it. I don't know if it would scratch paint or not but it isn't scratching the aluminum.
This'll make it easier to remember.
They stand for Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene.
PE can be ordered in Low Density, High Density and UHMW.
-mike