pierre smith

Well Known Member
Mornin' all.
I installed three nutplates in the forward spinner plate (after a year without any), between prop blades and used # 8 screws with countersunk Tinnerman washers. After about four or five hours of flying, two of the screws broke off in the holes and damaged the leading edge of the prop. :( I didn't overtighten them either so I installed new screws and on the way back from Florida a few days ago, two had broken off in the holes again........sheesh! :cool:

What have you guys done? More screws? Bigger ones? What gives anyway?

I have been advised to paint a thick mix of resin and mill fiber on the inside of the spinner where it contacts the front plate and re-install it so it'll make a "bed" stopping any loose motion. Whaddya think?

Miffed,
 
Hi Pierre,
I have the same setup with the 3B Catto.
I believe I'm using #6 ctrsink with the tinnerman washers on both spinner plates and have had no problems after 33 hours. I've been keeping a close observation that they are snug but that is all. I've only had a few that have become loose enough for me to re-snug up. I believe I have 2 screws between each blade space. I'll check when I get to the hangar later this evening.
 
Pierre,
I advise scuffing the plate, grease the spinner in the area, and apply a bead of proseal to the plate and install. You dont need any screws there as you already know. If you put some back, this should elievate the problem.

I have no screws showing on my vans spinner. Only screws through the backplate into the spinner to a flange I fiberglassed in that no one can see.

I can attest that on my installation, no screws necessary on the fwd bulkhead. But I would put the bead in there regardless now that you know there is some play. I recommend this be done regardless of whether any screws are used or not. I have seen this issue before that you are experiencing now.

Best,
 
Clever!

Kahuna said:
I have no screws showing on my vans spinner. Only screws through the backplate into the spinner to a flange I fiberglassed in that no one can see.

Dang - that sounds neat Kahuna! I had never thought about doing a spinner with no screws visible, but just reading your sentence made it clear exactly how you did it - almost makes me want to order a new spinner just to have a project! Very cool idea... :cool:

Paul
 
Builder's withdrawal??

Thanks Kahuna...sounds like a neat fix and I'll eliminate the forward screws.

Paul, you sound as though you're suffering from builder's withdrawal as I am. I really miss not having anything to build now that I'm flying... :confused:

Regards,
 
Hey I wish it were my idea. :eek: The "screwless spinner" idea came from Rick Gray who stole it from someone.... dont know who, maybe on the RV-List. You would not believe how many builders walk up to my plane and see that spinner and say "Where the $#@! are the dang screws. It looks cool, always gets a raised eyebrow from builders(my favorite part), and makes bug cleaning and waving easier.

Easiest to do while your mounting for the first time, but can do anytime. Ill tell you what, give me a half hour or so and Ill post pics and a web page.

Best,
 
Nice Look

Pierre, on the forward mounting holes, what is their configuration? Are they drilled for the screws and countersunk or are they 3/8" diameter to allow the dimple of the washers to go into the hole and secure the spinner by clamping action only?

Bob Axsom
 
Countersunk

Hi Bob,
I used a countersink on the spinner so that the Tinnerman washers lay flush against the spinner. The proseal is drying as we speak :D No more forward screws either.

Regards,
 
Just to clarify

Just to clarify your former installation, the hole was actually drilled for the screw and countersunk to accommodate the dimpled washer so any latteral force could still be absorbed directly by the screw. This is still a hard mount with no shock absorbing features provided by the dimpled washer. This is perhaps important for others in the field with similar installations and current builders to know.

Bob Axsom
 
not working

Kahuna said:
OK Here you go. Pics and a webpage. Enjoy,
Kahuna's Screwless Spinner

Mike, I have tried to connect a number of times, keep getting the message

The server at www2.mstewart.net is taking too long to respond.

Can you check to see if all is working properly.

Thanks, Mike
 
working now

Mike, thanks, it is going now.

Just about exactly what I had imagined by the description, but sure is nice to see it as well.

Mike
 
Breaking screws

I'm guessing that the reason the screws may have broke was maybe there was a slight gap between the fiberglass and the bulkhead.

As the prop is rotating the gap acts like a spring and moves in and out (Up and down the screw shaft) as the pressure pulses chage around the spinner.

This will impart as cyclic stress in the screw which will likely break it due to fatigue.

As we all know, screws/bolts don't usually break in service cus they are over tightened, but because the tension in the fastner is less than that applied in service....In other words if the fastner is UNDER tightened is when they will break.

Having a small gap between the glass and the bulkhead would act the same way.

Well thats my theory, I personally have SS screws and have not had one break in 50 hours...So far at least.

Frank
 
Many V33 Bonanzas have no screws showing on their spinners. Instead, a whole mess of short AN3 bolts from behind the backing plate.

:)
 
frankh said:
I'm guessing that the reason the screws may have broke was maybe there was a slight gap between the fiberglass and the bulkhead........

Frank

Or it could be normal Lycoming vibration. :) #10 screws might not snap off.

dd
 
I don't think so

There is something else going on with Pierre's plane and I think the fix Kahuna gave hime will fix the problem. I have #8 flat head SS screws and dimple washers in all spinner mount locations, 275+ flight hours no breakage (O-360-A1A, Hartzell C/S, non-blended airfoil).

Bob Axsom
 
Van's Spinner

I have installed 3 spinner kits within 3 years...one on an 0-360 RV4 on which I installed a new prop and used CS washers with #8 screws in the forward bulkhead and the rear bulkhead. In about 2002 I installed a Sensenich FP on an RV6 with an 0-320 with #8 CS washers as well. Both of these had fwd bulkheads that fit the spinner very tightly. I, just last month, installed a Hartzell on the 0-320 RV6 with a new spinner kit. This time I noticed Van's print showed panhead screws for the spinner but the kit included both panhead and CS #8's and tinnerman washers for hardware. I installed panhead #8 screws on the aft bulkhead and CS #8 screws on the fwd bulkhead with a very tight fit. I did countersink the holes shallow as I wanted the washers to grip the epoxy spinner adequately. I have not noticed any problems but I did wonder why Van's suddenly showed panhead screws which I never noticed before. This will be a preflight check item!

Dick DeCramer
N500DD
Northfield, MN
165 hrs with 6 hrs on the Harzell

Northfield, MN
 
Like butter

David-aviator said:
Or it could be normal Lycoming vibration. :) #10 screws might not snap off. dd
No, no could not be that. we all know Lycomings are sewing machine smooth. :)

I do think being on the pointy end, cantilevered off of sheet metal and spinning at 2,700 rpm has something to do with it. Many (most) RV's don't have an issue (even with the evil Lyc shake rattle and roll), but others snap off screws, crack bulkheads and in a few cases lose the whole spinner. Happened to a friend. It has to be all concentric and NO PRELOAD. I suspect the bulkheads are not perfect, nor is the spinner and when you install screws and PULL UP the parts you get high pre-load. Add the aerodynamic, dynamic (spinning) and vibration its going to fatigue the spinner.

A screw in TENSION is not good. Those little stainless steal screws are not structural. Kahuna's idea does several things. It eliminates pre-load pull up and puts the screws in the rear bulkhead in shear. SHEAR IS GOOD, Tension is bad from fatigue and pull-up stand point.
 
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DanLandry said:
Hi Pierre,
I have the same setup with the 3B Catto.
I believe I'm using #6 ctrsink with the tinnerman washers on both spinner plates and have had no problems after 33 hours. I've been keeping a close observation that they are snug but that is all. I've only had a few that have become loose enough for me to re-snug up. I believe I have 2 screws between each blade space. I'll check when I get to the hangar later this evening.

Hi Pierre,
Just confirming my #8 ctrsink screws with tinnerman washers.
2 screws placed between each prop blade.
 
<<Screws in TENSION is not good.... SHEAR IS GOOD, Tension is bad from fatigue and pull-up stand point.>>

Complete nonsense.

With UNF thread fasteners, the tension rating is almost always higher than the shear rating. Only small UNC (coarse) thread fasteners have a lower tension rating, a function of their smaller thread root diameter.

Moot anyway, because properly designed true shear joints do not apply any shear load to the threaded portion of the fastener. This is not possible with a standard short-length machine screw; there is no unthreaded shank.

Even if this application was a true shear joint (screw with a shank, no shear loads on the threaded portion of the fastener) the bearing strength of a hole in fiberglass is way, way lower than the fastener shear strength. The hole will elongate.

All ordinary screw-fastened joints are intended to place the fastener in tension. The load vector of the joint may indeed be shear, but the load transfer between the parts is via friction, a function of the clamping force provided by the tension fastener and the coefficient of friction of the clamped surfaces.

As for fastener fatigue in tension, go back and re-read FrankH's post regarding pre-tension of fasteners. He is completely correct.

Pre-tension aside, let's assume you can't get much clamp force in the joint with a phillips drive screw. In this spinner application the crush strength of the fiberglass under the head of the screw may be too low anyway. No problem; increase the coefficient of friction between the clamped parts, and thus eliminate relative motion (and fastener fatigue) at the lower fastener tension. As Kahuna suggested, put some proseal in the joint...and clean out any residual grease or mold release agent before you re-assemble.
 
SOON!!

Thanks Dan and all the others,
The proseal in the mixing bowl cured overnight and the front spinner screws are gone. As soon as this rain ends, we're going up and put the greasy side up! Several times... :D
 
Weight differences with respect to prop balance?

Kahuna said:
OK Here you go. Pics and a webpage. Enjoy,
Kahuna's Screwless Spinner

Great job. One question. Noting the imprecise size of the hidden fiberglass brackets holding the spinner, is there any consideration of the size, position and weight differences with respect to prop balance? Here an ounce, there an ounce...
 
On my spinner, I used #8 x 1/2 Stainless truss head machine screws without any washers and they've held just fine for 175 hrs. on a -7A with a fixed-pitch metal Sensenich prop. I, too, like the look of the screwless spinner. Probably next time.

Mike
 
MrNomad said:
Great job. One question. Noting the imprecise size of the hidden fiberglass brackets holding the spinner, is there any consideration of the size, position and weight differences with respect to prop balance? Here an ounce, there an ounce...

Yes. Thats what a prop balance is for.
 
Sorry you are confused

DanH said:
<<Screws in TENSION is not good.... SHEAR IS GOOD, Tension is bad from fatigue and pull-up stand point.>>

Complete nonsense.

With UNF thread fasteners, the tension rating is almost always higher than the shear rating. Only small UNC (coarse) thread fasteners have a lower tension rating, a function of their smaller thread root diameter.

Moot anyway, because properly designed true shear joints do not apply any shear load to the threaded portion of the fastener. This is not possible with a standard short-length machine screw; there is no unthreaded shank.

Even if this application was a true shear joint (screw with a shank, no shear loads on the threaded portion of the fastener) the bearing strength of a hole in fiberglass is way, way lower than the fastener shear strength. The hole will elongate.

All ordinary screw-fastened joints are intended to place the fastener in tension. The load vector of the joint may indeed be shear, but the load transfer between the parts is via friction, a function of the clamping force provided by the tension fastener and the coefficient of friction of the clamped surfaces.

As for fastener fatigue in tension, go back and re-read FrankH's post regarding pre-tension of fasteners. He is completely correct.

Pre-tension aside, let's assume you can't get much clamp force in the joint with a Phillips drive screw. In this spinner application the crush strength of the fiberglass under the head of the screw may be too low anyway. No problem; increase the coefficient of friction between the clamped parts, and thus eliminate relative motion (and fastener fatigue) at the lower fastener tension. As Kahuna suggested, put some proseal in the joint...and clean out any residual grease or mold release agent before you re-assemble.

First Dan it is apparent that you have no clue what the difference is between ultimate load and fatigue load is.

You are also confused about the word pre-load and pre-tension. I agree 100% with FrankH's post. I never said different. I said a screw in tension is not good. I should have said cyclic tension. YOU are confused with bolt PRE-TENSION and pre-loaded structure. Frank correctly describes pre-loaded structure not bolt pre-tension. Bolt pre-tension is used in joints like rod cap bolts. A screw is not a designed for pre-tension or fatigue.

I also never said Kahuna's idea would not work or did not have merit.

PULL-UP IS A KILLER AND IS WAY DIFFERENT THAN PRE-TENSION OF FASTENERS. Trust me there are very tight controls regarding pull-up and pre-loaded structure (ie bent into shape to assemble) in aerospace structure. Pre-tension is for fatigue improvement and done extensively (with fatigue quality fasteners not screws). You are badly confused about the difference.

Pre-tension is done to keep the fastener in tension always, by "stretching" the bolt and compressing the surrounding structure by torquing the bolt. You improve fatigue life of bolts because the bolt stress is always positive or in tension. Dan... in the spinner we are talking SS screw in sheet metal/fiberglass not a rod caps or jet turbine case.

PULL-UP or pre-load stress (bending sheet metal and fiberglass) is a problem because the pre-loaded structure vaires the tension in the fastener greatly under load (as the structure deflects per FrankH's comments). This allows the bolt or screw to totally relax. THIS IS BAD and causes high fatigue cycles.

The fastener loaded by the pre-loaded structure being twisted and sprung is bad. As the spinner rotates the flange flexes and the pull-up relaxes and then stretches the screw again. This is exaggerated by the prying of the heal toe action of the flange increasing the load. Trust me. It is a poor LOAD PATH.

*****

Hardware store quality (SS) stainless steel fasteners builders use in "appearance" locations are NOT structural but decorative boat quality. The spinner is a bad place for them. Even Mil-Spec or AN spec stainless steel screws are not structural or intended for high loads or severe vibration. Yes they are strong but they are brittle. In general the stronger a steel is the lower it's fatigue life, durability and crack resistance is. A low carbon steel fastener is a better choice than SS.

MS (mil-spec) or AN (army navy, old designation) hardware come in different tensile strength like 60,000 psi (same as 60 ksi), 80 ksi and 125 ksi typically. Lower tensile strength screws are fine. We don't need strength as much as fatigue durability. You also can get countersunk -8 or -10 screws or bolts with a shoulder so threads are NOT is shear (NAS1202/NAS1203). Needless to say threads in shear is BAD.

Dan I have a Masters in Mechanical Engineering and was a senior lead structural engineer at Boeing before flying Boeing jets. My job was calculating stress, strain, fatigue, and fatigue life of mechanically fastened joints. I know what I am talking about.


****

Your statements about load transfer and bolted joint design are mostly incorrect. I may be wrong about many things Dan, but this is not one of them. You know a little, enough to be dangerous with your limited understanding load transfer and bolted joint mechanics.

You are right, a GOOD shear joint does not put the shear thru the threaded portion. That is not the case here with fully threaded screws. So its not moot. It is bad to use threaded fasteners in structural applications. A SS screw on the spinner can cause damage as we see.

Shear is better than tension any day for fatigue. This is engineering 101. A shear joint is 1000 times more efficient than tension joints. Fatigue is predominately a tension or tension/compression reversal mechanism, NOT shear and never compression. This is basic aircraft structures knowlege. All aerospace structural engineers strive for shear load paths into structure.

As far as friction taking the shear, that is NEVER used or assumed in design, EVER NEVER EVER. I know I did it for a living. It's not that it's not there, just that it can't be counted on.

Friction is involved in ALL joints, but ALL airframe engineers ignore friction in the design and analysis 99.9% of the time. So what is the shear capability of the friction in your JOINT? You don't know. That is why engineers typically do not design aircraft structure with FRICTION! Geeee

Pro seal is wonderful stuff (we called it Boeing Material Spec, BMS- 5-95). You could do the same with fiberglass and microballoons. Grease the bulkhead and fill the fiberglass "land" for better fit. However the pro-seal trick is good and it will in fact increase friction and help unload the screws. Along with that use structural screws. Regardless good bulkhead/spinner fit (no pull-up) and min spinner run-out (wobble) is more important.

You say fiberglass has less bearing strength than the screws shear strength. It all depends on the fiberglass thickness. Fiberglass can shear a screw, trust me. As one fastener yields it loads the next more and pop pop pop. It is called the zipper effect.

You can't pre-tension screws in fiberglass. This is a big issue in aerospace and composite structure, so inserts are often used to get proper clamp-up.

As far as tension / shear rating of fasteners, it varies and depends on fastener diameter and head design. Not all fasteners have higher tension rating than shear. There are spacific tension and shear head fasteners made by name and purpose.​

I am sorry you took the "complete nonsense" attitude, but I'll take the high road. The only nonsense is your lack of civility. :D

Merry Christmas
 
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Mornin' George,
I'm usually plain spoken, but rarely intend insult. Regardless, you feel insulted so I offer an apology. I strongly support this forum's "be civil" policy. It is also Christmas.

Yes, I understand fatigue.

No apology for this: You can't design a shear joint using any all-thread screw and call it "good". Any joint put together with an all-thread fastener must be designed as a clamped joint.

Absolutely agree that a proper shear joint is better than a clamped joint.

You state "As far as friction taking the shear, that is NEVER used or assumed in design, EVER NEVER EVER." Certainly applies to typical riveted joints. Certainly true for double shear, pinned, bolted or otherwise. Probably applies to a few more cases that escape me at the moment. I'll even agree that it is best to avoid consideration of friction when a better situation is possible. However "never used or assumed in design" is incorrect. Common examples would include the interface between a wooden prop and the engine drive flange, or any shrink fit. Both are carefully engineered.

Let's move closer to home. Consider fretting, evidently common with our spinner forward bulkhead. Fretting indicates relative motion between the fastened parts. Stopping it via shear requires a tight, fitted fastener; a rivet, a dowel pin, or a close-tolerance bolt. An all-thread screw in a hole drilled for clearance won't work as a shear method to prevent fretting. You must switch to a friction method; increase clamp force or increase coefficient of friction.

Now let's talk about something where we're in complete agreement. I think your theory regarding pull-up in the case of the failing forward bulkhead spinner screws is quite valid, and may even be the proximate cause. I have two Van's spinners (one older and one recent manufacture) and a virgin bulkhead. A check of bulkhead fit inside the spinners finds that as delivered, the bulkhead flange bend angle does not match the spinner angle. It's not even close. I've attached a simple drawing. If the bulkhead flange angle is left uncorrected, the result would be two possible failure modes; pull-up tension stress on the screw (with ramifications for stress cycles as you note), and off-angle loading of the screw head.

It's worth noting that filling the gap between the off-angle parts won't really cure the problem. Although you may partially help the pull-up problem, the screw head would still be non-tangent to the spinner surface. With enough cycles you'll pop the head off the screw, much like levering off a bottle cap. In this light, I'd suggest the best approach would be to go screwless (with something like proseal to minimze fretting damage), or correct the flange angle and run screws (again with proseal or similar, but to increase coefficient of friction).

 
Here is the bottom line (in my opinion)

I agree clamping force and friction can and are used to advantage but its not ideal. In the case of wood props, fretting and bulkheads I agree friction is needed for that application, but its not ideal and why 180 hp engines and up need metal props in my opinion.

You make excellent point about Vans tolerance, fit, pull-up and the screw head still being off. Boeing uses self aligning washers and other methods as "workarounds", but it would not be visually pleasing on the spinner. I suppose one could make a "shim" washer and bond it on the spinners exterior to provide a flat land for the screw. If its a flush (countersunk) screw w/ a tinnerman washer there is some wiggle room on angle alignment. Any way that is not really the way to go, band-aid it to work. We agree the bulkhead and spinner must fit.

Regardless of workarounds, its not a GOOD thing to have the bulkhead flange not match the spinner, we agree. You make good points and I agree. I guess the best solution is MAKE the spinner flange angle match. How? I guess anneal to the aluminum to the "O" condition and re-form and re-heat treat? I don't know. My solution is forget Van's arrangement all together.

With (Van's) screws placed thru the spinner radially and thru RIGHT ANGLE FLANGES (pulling on the flanges out of plan, ie bending flat sheet metal) is not cool from a structures stand point. Again I can't emphasis enough, shear joints are 100000% more efficient and this is a better mouse trap (see pic below).

Below is the way to do it. (Note: the front bulkhead just slips over a thick plate bolted to prop, no fasteners in spinner; the rear bulkhead puts the screws and aft bulkhead, a flat plate bolted to prop, in SHEAR.) IF THE SCEWS DON'T BRREAK THE FLANGE WILL EVENTUALLY FATIGUE OUT. (never pull up on flanges if at all possible.)


An observant load path analyst would note the angle bonded to the aft part of the spinner may pry up, BUT its bonded right up to the heal of the angle, unlike Vans bend flange w/ screw arrangement, which gets more "heal / toe" action.


spinner2ng2.jpg



PS: Fit up (ie reduction of Pre-Loaded structure) is goodness always. Why van does not change his design? Well because most don't have problems (ie if it ain't broke in Van's opinion don't change it.), but I have heard of more than one screw and even a spinner or two departing the plane. Anything on the front of the plane spinner at 2,700 rpm should be "structural" since when it flys off it can hurt the plane or you. I suggest every one use structural screws (NAS1202/NAS1203) and make sure the fit up is as perfect as you can get it, whether its with pro-seal or other methods of building up the spinner to match the bulkhead. (Trivia if a fan jet engine spinner is damaged or comes off, say from a bird strike, the engine can NOT run since its needed to smooth the air going into the engine; without it the engine will not run, therefore the spinner is "structural" and as important as a fan blade. Consider the RV's spinner structural and install it like you would a wing spar. It may not be as critical as a spar or spinner on a jet, but parts flying off is badness.)
 
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Hey George, that looks pretty cool. Are those flanges fiberglass or metal? Kind of hard to tell from looking at it. Construction photos please? ;)

mcb
 
Spinner mounting

Hey George:

That's a whole lot better than cool. That's **** professional. How did you manage to bend the alum angle iron so perfectly?

Better yet, I'll mail you a check, make me one.

Good job.

Barry
RV9A - maybe 2/07 :)
 
Good question, I don't know but want to

mburch said:
Hey George, that looks pretty cool. Are those flanges fiberglass or metal? Kind of hard to tell from looking at it. Construction photos please? ;) mcb
Not my handy work. I stole this of a web site but forgot who to give credit to. It looks like metal aft, fiberglass fwd.

I'll be doing this to my spinner. I had planned on doing it all in glass at first, front and back spinner inside bulkheads. I might make my aft flange metal using Vans part as a start; however bonding metal and glass is tricky. If I do use metal I'll add some "chicken fasteners" (3/32 flush rivets) thru the spinner, not to rely 100% on bonding only.

I had the same design spinner on my RV-4. I bought it pre-made and it recall it looked just like this. It think the spinner bulkheads where both glass, no metal in spinner. The parts that bolted to the prop are aluminum.

I have the Vans spinner and want to give it a go on my own. I may try to use Vans metal flanged aft bulkhead, as I said, bonding (and riveting) it in as a starting point at the rear rear. I have a machinist friend to help modify and make the metal parts. I think the fwd metal plate will take a lathe? I don't think its too bad.

Once the rear bulkhead is in place and the spinner is mounted off the rear, the front bulkhead should just fall into place.


Front bulkhead: First you have to cut thick aluminum plate perfectly round with screw holes to bolt the front of the prop. Obviously it must be centered. A lathe might be nice. The bulkhead has a flanged hole to slip over this plate. Again I may start with Van's metal fwd bulkhead part for tooling or a "plug" to make the fiberglass part. We shall see; I'm not that far. I don't think that will be an issue. With a simple plug made with wood should do it. Once the bulkhead is made with glass on the work bench it can be bonded in.

A bonding and filling adhesive (flox/ resin? (not micro-bees) Pro-seal? other adhesive?) will be applied on the Fwd bulkhead flange and the spinner installed. Let is set and than remove prop. I have to talk to my fiberglass man to see what's best. If the flanges are facing aft in the fwd bulkhead, I can always run some more "chicken fasteners" (flush rivets) thru it, using the belt and suspenders method. :D (Old structures engineer saying: "When in doubt make is stout.")

It should be heck for stout. ANY IDEAS would help me as well, since I have not finished it (methods, materials, fabrication). Once again the old advice and wisdom, "Make it per the plans", comes to mind. Any alteration adds time, effort and many times money and weight. There is no doubt modifying the spinner takes work and some metal and fiberglass fabrication, but I am picking this challenge. Other wise my suggestion is make it per plans. If going stock screws thru spinner make it fit. Just don't honk it down to make it fit.



** One trick I learned from a Pratt & Whitney guy who designs spinners on turbo jets, is they machine composite fiberglass parts like their spinner as you do metal to get them true. They build up the resin layer on the mount surface during manufacture to machine off later. I know a machinist but doubt I need to do this or even can easily. From my inital planning I can do this all with hand tools and eye ball. THERE MAY BE (probably) A BETTER WAY. suggestions and ideas welcomed.
 
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This is next on our list

George:

I suggest some collaboration on this. A friend of mine has every tool known to man for fashioning metal. Let me send this photo over to him and get his thoughts.

If he can bend/fabricate one pair, he can do two. It will prob take a couple of days to hear from him.

Barry
Tucson
520-797-0265
 
Broken Screws

Pierre: Sounds like #8 303 stainless screws to me. Some (most) nutplates tend to be quite tight. Over the years, we have had an occasional lot of stainless screws break the heads off (typically with an impact wrench application). However, if the lot is below par (80K PSI for 303), it does not meet the Milspec for one, and for two, it lead to a potentially bad problem.

With the problem you had (be careful you are not having another problem leading to the fastener failure), I suggest either changing to #10 or using AN509-832 steel screws. They are rated at 125K (careful, the AN509 stainless drops to 80K). Regardless, getting away from the AN507 stainless may cure your problem.

I think you got a bad lot of screws, that combined with the required torque to tighten, basically strained the fastener, thus failure.

Regards,

Ned Bowers, Skybolt
 
front bulkhead

I have seen this type of mount before, it used a short piece of tube welded to a piece of flat stock, which was bolted on with the prop bolts, replaced the crush plate on a wood prop. The front bulkhead had a rubber grommet in it, slipped over the tube.

As I recall, it was a no problem set-up, as reported by the owner.

Mike
 
More Screw Info.

If you like the fully threaded screws like the AN507 / MS24693, but you are tired of working with softer and weaker materials, try the NAS514 series.

They are fully threaded but made of stronger steel than the AN509 / MS24694S, or the AN507 / MS24693. They do not come in Stainless. These are awesome for shorter applications such as spinner screws in 8-32 or 10-32.

They also come in 6-32, its the only common 6-32 screw I know of that has a good strong alloy, these work especially great for mounting radio boxes.
They are 125 to 140ksi, compared to the AN507-/ MS24693S about 60ksi.

If you want screws like the AN509 / MS24694 but stronger the NAS517 is a great choice being very similar configuration with 160ksi steel.

Here are the ref book links

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/ms24693.pdf

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/ms24694.pdf

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/nas514600.pdf

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/NAS517.pdf

This should help alot of folks with there Countersunk Screw selection.

Have the good weekend. :)
 
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