Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
So do you think this seat rib goes in the scrap bin?:rolleyes:

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This is what happens when the fly cutter bar catches a rib flange - don't let it happen to you! (fortunately - safety glasses, gloves, ear protection, etc....:cool:) And for the record, this was my mistake - Louise wasn't even in town.

At least I can still use the rib for fitting purposes until an airworthy one arrives. We're a long way from shooting any rivets on the assembly!

Paul
 
Just put some foam around it secured with duct tape so you don't get cut working around it.
 
I probably wouldn't want to use that either but I have some seat ribs with way less material than that one would have if you removed all the jaggies. The instructions that came with my Navaid Devices AP, years ago showed an underseat mounting option that was developed by Martin Sutter, I believe. You mount the servo and the push-rod amongst those seat ribs which requires removing a bunch of material.

When I pull a lot of Gs I think about the fact that my body on that seat at 6 Gs is more than the empty weight of the entire airplane at 1 G, engine and all. At inspections, I look at that area carefully. No problems, but the servo is mounted under the right seat, not directly under me.
 
I feel inadequate around all the real aircraft builders. I was just going to bubba fix it and the experts know the proper repair methods...deburr, buff out, etc.

This site is a constant learning source for me.
 
I thought maybe that was a zoomed in picture of a dimpled hole that wasn't match drilled to size. :eek:

Sorry had to say it.
 
And when were you going to tell me????

Geez, I can't leave you home alone, can I? I'm sure glad that you're not hurt, dear. Guess I can add a seat rib to your Christmas gift wish list? ;)
 
Patch it

before wife gets home Paul. The rib is still good it's just the hole messed up... Remember that analogy with drill bits - only tips are bad :D
 
Most Dangerous Tool in the Shop!

When I was in metals class, some 30 years ago, our grizzled instructor pointed to the fly-cutter; "and this gentleman, is the most dangerous tool in the shop". Believe him. (of course he was missing a couple fingers from a table saw accident, but, errr... who's counting....)
Glad your safe and took all the necessary precautions.
 
Careful, Mel!

You know, I was a good sport and actually happy to get a wheelpant kit for Christmas last year. (How many husbands get by with that?) But, I think I'll draw the line at receiving a seat rib for Christmas this year! :eek:
 
not such a bad gift...

Gee, My wife would be happy to get a seat rib. I just have to figure out how to get one stamped out of platinum or white gold.
 
It's Still Useful

That's a lightening hole, right? Cut it bigger, eliminates the rather large burrs, and, Voila!, a supremely lighter rib. Make 'em all the same and no one will ever know, except all of us.

Or put it up on VAF classifieds. Someone will buy it.

John Siebold
 
I think if you trimmed the jagged stuff away and tried again you could still cut an acceptable hole with plenty of flange. I'm noticing the -10 kit has a lot more of the stamped flange cut away than was the case with the -6A kit.

However, as far as the Christmas gift goes: accept it! You never know, the rib might be attached to an airplane... ;)
 
You now have an artifact to save, memoralizing the construction. Keep it in its imperfect state, a reminder that failure is inevitable and recoverable.

And just think, it wasn't nearly as costly it could have been ... consider the blown rupture disk I keep in my office, a reminder of my mistakes in my past life as a young engineer in the chemical biz. :)

TODR
 
Or put it up on VAF classifieds. Someone will buy it.

John Siebold

Put it up for auction as artwork (one of a kind;)), proceeds to go to Doug.

What do I hear for a paper plate with 10 grams of leftover proseal and an acid brush? (It's been 10 days now, probably good to ship.:D)
 
Paul, that probably wouldn't happen if you had it properly clamped down in one of these with the proper feed rate :). The ultimate scrap maker.

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Paul,
The factory owes you a new one anyway. All the pre-punched holes were left out on that one! :D
 
I'll catch flak for this response I'm sure but, throw that tool away!! :mad:Being in the safety biz allows you to investigate all kinds of accidents/incidents and the fly cutter is the top of my "wish it was never invented" list. Granted used properly with great care it can chew hole for you. The post about gloves is also correct...they can catch and twist off a finger...I've seen it happen with many rotating power tools, Arms are also twisted off...saw a 24" buffer wheel do that! I'm not sure if either bite is better than the other when using the fly cutter!!:eek:. Harbor freight makes a nifty air powered nibbler that will make those non critical holes easy. Nibble your lightenng holes, get your panel laser or water cut and melt down the fly cutter for scrap. Scott's response was the best....buy a nice verticle mill!!!:cool:
 
No Flack from me!

I'll catch flak for this response I'm sure but, throw that tool away!! :mad:Being in the safety biz allows you to investigate all kinds of accidents/incidents and the fly cutter is the top of my "wish it was never invented" list. Granted used properly with great care it can chew hole for you. The post about gloves is also correct...they can catch and twist off a finger...I've seen it happen with many rotating power tools, Arms are also twisted off...saw a 24" buffer wheel do that! I'm not sure if either bite is better than the other when using the fly cutter!!:eek:. Harbor freight makes a nifty air powered nibbler that will make those non critical holes easy. Nibble your lightenng holes, get your panel laser or water cut and melt down the fly cutter for scrap. Scott's response was the best....buy a nice verticle mill!!!:cool:

...as I stated earlier in the post, "most dangerous tool in the shop".
I still use mine for cutting lightening holes. I also have a variable speed Shopsmith that I can dial way down in speed. Clamp it down tight, and step well away as I feed it. Still scares me, but I have not found a better way to get the job done.
 
Paul, that probably wouldn't happen if you had it properly clamped down in one of these with the proper feed rate :). The ultimate scrap maker.

img_5954.jpg

Scott, I have never seen a Bridgeport Series 1 standard in a home shop before. Where did you find it?
 
Looks like you could get an oops rivet to squeeze in there.

Agreed though. That tool scares me.

I chucked a fly cutter last weekend and some 6th sense told me to shut the drill press down and find a different method to remove the material. Since I started building an airplane I have started to recogonize those moments when I need to listen to that inner voice. I always seem to realize when I'm pushing the envelope a little more than I should - usually with negative results.

Problem solved and it took much more time to complete the task, but I still have all of my fingers to type this message too.
 
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Scott, I have never seen a Bridgeport Series 1 standard in a home shop before. Where did you find it?

I think every home shop should have one, if only to run the fly cutter :). A proper mill fly cutter is much safer in my opinion than the sliding bar thingy we have traditionally used in our drill presses. Those days are happily over for me. I wrote about how my Series I came to be in my shop on my -8 build log: http://rv8.card-net.org/ It is a good thing I had years of experience with the fly cutter, since moving a 2000 pound machine by hand is much scarier :).
 
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Looks like a perfectly salvageable rib to me, smooth out the edges and install a doubler to stiffen it.

In time of war it would be done and the airplane flying by now. :)